Every boat needs a bit of regular TLC, and that goes for the engine too. Without attention, dirt and build-up can lead to poor combustion, loss of power, and in the long run, damage.

A periodic clean is certainly a good idea, especially when using biofuel. Biofuel can contain more bacteria than conventional fuel, although this isn’t an inherent characteristic of all biofuels. The increase in bacteria in biofuel, particularly biodiesel, is mainly due to its higher organic content and the presence of water. This creates favourable conditions for micro-organisms to thrive. This can lead to bacterial growth in the fuel tank and blockages in the fuel system.

Time to give your diesel engine a thorough clean. In this guide, we’ll explain step-by-step how to treat your engine to a good spruce-up. This way, you’ll avoid costly repairs down the line and can set sail with peace of mind.

Why cleaning a diesel engine is important

Diesel engine pollution often builds up very gradually. You usually only notice it when the power drops a bit or fuel consumption increases slightly. We’re listing five benefits of a clean diesel engine.

Reduction of wear and tear

The more dirt, soot or fuel residue in your fuel system, the more friction and pressure you’ll get. Parts like injectors, the fuel pump and valves will struggle bit by bit. If everything is clean, your engine will last longer.

Improving combustion

The cleaner the engine, the better the diesel combustion. You can tell this by a powerful and regular engine sound, both when idling and when cruising. Usually, it also sails a bit smoother. An experienced skipper notices this almost immediately.

Cutting emissions

If there’s dirt in the engine, you’ll also suffer more from exhaust fumes. This includes fine dust, harmful exhaust gases, and other noxious substances. Therefore, a clean fuel system is better for your boat, the environment, and your own health.

Step-by-step guide: how to tackle cleaning effectively

Fortunately, cleaning your diesel engine isn’t too tricky a job. With a handy step-by-step guide and the right tools, you’ll get a long way. We’ll explain how to clean your diesel engine in a few simple steps.

Step 1: A visual inspection

It starts with a thorough check. See if you notice any oil or diesel residue, if the air intake is clear, and if there’s any soot buildup. The oil level and colour are also worth inspecting. Have you checked the basics? Then it’s time for a proper clean.

Step 2: Use Diesel Cleaner

with Diesel Cleaner. This fluid cleans the Diesel Cleaner. This fluid cleans the entire fuel system. Pour the contents into the fuel tank before refuelling. It improves combustion, optimises fuel consumption, and resolves carbon and soot deposits.

Step 3: Use Injector Cleaner

For an even cleaner engine, we also recommend Injector Cleaner. This fluid cleans the entire fuel system. Pour the contents into the fuel tank before refuelling. It improves combustion, optimises fuel consumption, and resolves carbon and soot deposits.

AB Marine Service’s Recommended Products

We therefore recommend Diesel Cleaner and Injector Cleaner. And while you’re at it, it’s also a good idea to use Radiator Flush to clean your cooling system. This agent cleans blocked coolant passages. You pour it into the radiator and let the engine run for 10 minutes.

Next, it’s time to replace your coolant. Our recommendation is Coolant -38 NF from Kroon Oil. This coolant can be used all year round and offers protection down to -38 °C. The maximum change interval is three years.

Another recommendation is a bactericidal diesel additive. It prevents the formation of bio-slime, rust and blockages in the fuel tank and lines. Just 25 ml per fill-up protects against water-borne micro-organisms such as bacteria and fungi. Ideal in warm, humid conditions or during longer diesel storage.

Common mistakes when cleaning a diesel engine.

We often see the same mistakes being made during cleaning. To avoid these mistakes, we’ve listed them out. That way, you’ll know straight away what not to do.

Don’t leave cleaning too long

The first mistake is quite logical: waiting too long. If you wait until your engine starts sputtering, you’re already too late. You don’t want internal damage to occur that can’t be fixed with cleaning. Therefore, opt for regular maintenance to have minor contamination cleaned.

Using the wrong products

Not every additive is suitable for your engine. That’s why we only recommend thoroughly tested products from A-brands. For instance, incorrect additives can cause damage to your rubbers or seals. Ultimately, you’ll be worse off.

Using not enough/too much

If you use too much or too little of your cleaning product, it’s possible your results won’t be as you’d hoped. So, always follow the recommended dosage on the bottle. More isn’t always better. Therefore, don’t just chuck in a litre of Diesel Cleaner without a second thought.

Fancy getting your diesel engine cleaned? We’re here to help.

Cleaning your diesel engine isn’t overly complicated. With the right products from AB Marine Service, you’re choosing a reliable approach to keep your engine in tip-top condition. This way, you’ll prevent damage, reduce fuel consumption, and sail with peace of mind.

Got any questions about our products or your diesel engine? Don’t hesitate to get in touch,, and we’ll put our heads together with you. We’re happy to offer you more tips and expert advice.

Is your boat’s diesel engine not running smoothly anymore or is it starting with difficulty? Then a faulty lift pump could be a possible cause. In that case, it’s wise to replace that pump quickly to prevent bigger problems.

In this blog, we’ll explain step-by-step what a fuel lift pump does, how to spot problems with it, and how to sort them out yourself. That way, your engine will run better, you’ll save on fuel, and you’ll avoid costly repairs down the line.

What exactly does a feed pump do?

The feed pump, also known as the fuel pump or fuel supply pump, is responsible for transferring diesel from the fuel tank, via the fine filter, to your engine’s injection pump. The injection pump then sprays the fuel into the cylinders.

Electric or mechanical fuel pump

Globally speaking, there are two types of fuel pumps: electrical and mechanical. In older diesel engines, the feed pump is usually mechanically driven. Newer diesel engines often feature electric feed pumps. These fuel pumps are more consistent, quieter, and more compact.

Why does a fuel pump go broke

A faulty pump can have all sorts of causes. These could include

• Wear and tear
• Clogged by dirt
• Corrosion from water in diesel
• Overheating under heavy load.

Air bubbles in the system, contaminated fuel, or running dry for too long can also cause damage.

What happens if the feed pump isn’t working properly?

If the feed pump isn’t working properly, the injection pump (high-pressure fuel pump) will receive insufficient fuel. Consequences include poor or slow starting, reduced pulling power when boating, and in the worst-case scenario, the engine cutting out. Internal wear can also increase if the fuel supply is irregular.

Engine starting problems

Trouble starting your engine, or is it barely starting at all? A faulty feed pump could be the culprit. If the feed pump isn’t pushing enough diesel towards the injection pump, there simply won’t be enough fuel getting into the cylinders. This makes starting difficult, or impossible.

Rough running of the engine

Got an engine that’s juddering, spluttering, or hesitating? Chances are, the fuel supply isn’t as consistent as it should be. This unevenness causes fluctuating engine speeds. You’ll notice it more at higher revs, as the fuel pump has to work harder then.

Air bubbles or fuel leaks

Are you seeing fuel leaks around the feed pump? The pump is probably worn out, or the seals are no longer any good. It’s also possible there’s air in the system. Air bubbles in the lines cause sputtering and a loss of power.

More wear and dirt

Seeing rust, corrosion, or a build-up of grime around the feed pump? The fuel pump has likely seen better days too. It’s also possible that the filter in or near the feed pump has become clogged. Cleaning it in this case is a good idea.

What you’ll need to replace your broken fuel pump yourself

Fancy yourself a bit of a DIY whizz? Then swapping out the fuel pump is a job you can tackle yourself. You’ll need the right tools for the job, mind. Make sure you’ve got the following bits and bobs to hand:

• A new feed pump that naturally suits your brand and type
• Socket and spanner sets in the right sizes for your bolts
• in the right sizes for your bolts. to loosen hose clamps.
• A bleed key or pump bellows, for bleeding
• New gaskets or O-rings

A step-by-step guide to replacing your faulty fuel pump yourself

Time to get cracking. We’ll walk you through replacing the fuel pump, step by step. Got any questions? Don’t hesitate to get in touch. We’re happy to help.

Step 1: Turn off the engine and let it cool down.

First and foremost, always prioritise safety by letting your engine cool down. Also, shut off the fuel supply. If you’re working with an electric pump, disconnect the battery terminals too, if applicable. Safety first!

Step 2: Find the fuel pump

The feed pump is usually found between the fuel tank and the injection pump. With a mechanical pump, you’ll typically find the feed pump next to the engine block, complete with a manual lever.

Step 3: Disconnect fuel lines

Dsconnect the lines next. A little diesel might leak out. Relieve any pressure with the hand pump provided before disconnecting the pipes.

Step 4: Unscrew the old pump

Pry the faulty fuel pump out using the correct spanners. Sometimes there might be a gasket or an O-ring in between. Remove that, then give everything a good clean. That way, there’s no grime getting in the way of your new pump.

Step 5: Fit the new pump

Seat your new pump with the correct gaskets and washers. Make sure the pump is level and secure. Then, tighten the bolts, but don’t overtighten them. Also, ensure you tighten the bolts evenly.

Step 6: Bleed the system

Reconnect your fuel lines and use the hand primer or an external bleeding pump to fill the system with diesel. Then, bleed the system. You usually do this via the nipple on the filter or the injection pump.

Step 7: Start the engine

Start the engine and let it idle for a bit. Check for any leaks and that everything sounds as it should. Does it run smoothly? Then the job is done and you’ll no longer have trouble with that faulty fuel pump.

Common mistakes when replacing a fuel pump

To prevent mistakes, here’s a list of common errors. This way, you can avoid them when replacing your fuel pump.

Using the wrong pump model

Not every pump fits every engine. Choose a pump that matches your make and model. If you’re unsure, please feel free to get in touch with us for expert advice.

Reusing old gaskets

Occasionally, DIYers might be tempted to reuse old washers. We always advise fitting new ones. This ensures you don’t end up with knackered parts and everything’s shipshape.

Wrong or too tight fitting

When fitting the pump, it’s important to tighten the bolts by hand, with even pressure. Overtightening isn’t good. Make sure it’s also straight.

Forgot to bleed

Bleeding the system is important after replacing a fuel pump. Air in the system will cause starting problems or a poorly running engine. So, always bleed it thoroughly.

Fuel pump on the blink? We’ll sort it!

Replacing a faulty fuel pump requires precision, a bit of nerve, and the right tools. Order your new fuel pump easily and quickly through our webshop. We have a wide range of models from well-known manufacturers such as Vetus, Volvo Penta, Mercedes, Kubota, and Peugeot.

Replacing a duff fuel pump needs a steady hand, a bit of guts, and the right kit. Get your new fuel pump sorted lickety-split from our online shop. We’ve got a cracking selection from the usual suspects like Vetus, Volvo Penta, Mercedes, Kubota, and Peugeot. Stuck or not quite ready to dive in? Don’t hesitate to get in touch. We’re happy to point you in the right direction. Based on your specific situation, we can usually tell you quickly which feed pump you need.

This is how you replace the fuel filter of a diesel engine:

1. In case of contamination, when there is a drain valve, drain the bottom layer of diesel from your tank. Otherwise, pump up a few litres of diesel from the bottom of the tank. In that case, use a pump with a hose (in the filler cap) that reaches the bottom.
2. Is the (pumped up) diesel full of sludge (diesel bacteria) or water? Pump or tap the lower part completely out of your tank. Repeat this procedure until no more water or sludge can be found.
3. Is the diesel clear? And not dark or cloudy? Then the job is done. Then there is no need to replace the fuel filter.TIP: Add an anti-bacterial agent to the diesel to kill the last bacteria and prevent them from multiplying again. The De-Bug magnetic filter prevents diesel bacteria.
   If the diesel still looks abnormal, empty the entire diesel tank by pumping or draining. Then clean the tank.
4. Do you see water or sludge? Then replace your fuel filter. Tip: Is there often water in your diesel? Check the venting of your tank. Sometimes the air vent is located in the hull in such a way that rainwater runs into it or large waves push water into it. Then use a tank dryer in your tank. A simple and effective solution against condensation.
5. Change the coarse and the fine filter of your system every autumn. Are you installing a tank dryer? Also replace it annually.
6. The fuel lines are often clicked onto the filter with a kind of clamp, which can easily