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Clean your diesel engine: follow our handy step-by-step guide

Every boat needs a bit of regular TLC, and that goes for the engine too. Without attention, dirt and build-up can lead to poor combustion, loss of power, and in the long run, damage.

A periodic clean is certainly a good idea, especially when using biofuel. Biofuel can contain more bacteria than conventional fuel, although this isn’t an inherent characteristic of all biofuels. The increase in bacteria in biofuel, particularly biodiesel, is mainly due to its higher organic content and the presence of water. This creates favourable conditions for micro-organisms to thrive. This can lead to bacterial growth in the fuel tank and blockages in the fuel system.

Time to give your diesel engine a thorough clean. In this guide, we’ll explain step-by-step how to treat your engine to a good spruce-up. This way, you’ll avoid costly repairs down the line and can set sail with peace of mind.

Why cleaning a diesel engine is important

Diesel engine pollution often builds up very gradually. You usually only notice it when the power drops a bit or fuel consumption increases slightly. We’re listing five benefits of a clean diesel engine.

Reduction of wear and tear

The more dirt, soot or fuel residue in your fuel system, the more friction and pressure you’ll get. Parts like injectors, the fuel pump and valves will struggle bit by bit. If everything is clean, your engine will last longer.

Improving combustion

The cleaner the engine, the better the diesel combustion. You can tell this by a powerful and regular engine sound, both when idling and when cruising. Usually, it also sails a bit smoother. An experienced skipper notices this almost immediately.

Cutting emissions

If there’s dirt in the engine, you’ll also suffer more from exhaust fumes. This includes fine dust, harmful exhaust gases, and other noxious substances. Therefore, a clean fuel system is better for your boat, the environment, and your own health.

Step-by-step guide: how to tackle cleaning effectively

Fortunately, cleaning your diesel engine isn’t too tricky a job. With a handy step-by-step guide and the right tools, you’ll get a long way. We’ll explain how to clean your diesel engine in a few simple steps.

Step 1: A visual inspection

It starts with a thorough check. See if you notice any oil or diesel residue, if the air intake is clear, and if there’s any soot buildup. The oil level and colour are also worth inspecting. Have you checked the basics? Then it’s time for a proper clean.

Step 2: Use Diesel Cleaner

with Diesel Cleaner. This fluid cleans the Diesel Cleaner. This fluid cleans the entire fuel system. Pour the contents into the fuel tank before refuelling. It improves combustion, optimises fuel consumption, and resolves carbon and soot deposits.

Step 3: Use Injector Cleaner

For an even cleaner engine, we also recommend Injector Cleaner. This fluid cleans the entire fuel system. Pour the contents into the fuel tank before refuelling. It improves combustion, optimises fuel consumption, and resolves carbon and soot deposits.

AB Marine Service’s Recommended Products

We therefore recommend Diesel Cleaner and Injector Cleaner. And while you’re at it, it’s also a good idea to use Radiator Flush to clean your cooling system. This agent cleans blocked coolant passages. You pour it into the radiator and let the engine run for 10 minutes.

Next, it’s time to replace your coolant. Our recommendation is Coolant -38 NF from Kroon Oil. This coolant can be used all year round and offers protection down to -38 °C. The maximum change interval is three years.

Another recommendation is a bactericidal diesel additive. It prevents the formation of bio-slime, rust and blockages in the fuel tank and lines. Just 25 ml per fill-up protects against water-borne micro-organisms such as bacteria and fungi. Ideal in warm, humid conditions or during longer diesel storage.

Common mistakes when cleaning a diesel engine.

We often see the same mistakes being made during cleaning. To avoid these mistakes, we’ve listed them out. That way, you’ll know straight away what not to do.

Don’t leave cleaning too long

The first mistake is quite logical: waiting too long. If you wait until your engine starts sputtering, you’re already too late. You don’t want internal damage to occur that can’t be fixed with cleaning. Therefore, opt for regular maintenance to have minor contamination cleaned.

Using the wrong products

Not every additive is suitable for your engine. That’s why we only recommend thoroughly tested products from A-brands. For instance, incorrect additives can cause damage to your rubbers or seals. Ultimately, you’ll be worse off.

Using not enough/too much

If you use too much or too little of your cleaning product, it’s possible your results won’t be as you’d hoped. So, always follow the recommended dosage on the bottle. More isn’t always better. Therefore, don’t just chuck in a litre of Diesel Cleaner without a second thought.

Fancy getting your diesel engine cleaned? We’re here to help.

Cleaning your diesel engine isn’t overly complicated. With the right products from AB Marine Service, you’re choosing a reliable approach to keep your engine in tip-top condition. This way, you’ll prevent damage, reduce fuel consumption, and sail with peace of mind.

Got any questions about our products or your diesel engine? Don’t hesitate to get in touch,, and we’ll put our heads together with you. We’re happy to offer you more tips and expert advice.

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Replacing your diesel engine’s fuel pump: here’s how to do it

opvoerpomp

Is your boat’s diesel engine not running smoothly anymore or is it starting with difficulty? Then a faulty lift pump could be a possible cause. In that case, it’s wise to replace that pump quickly to prevent bigger problems.

In this blog, we’ll explain step-by-step what a fuel lift pump does, how to spot problems with it, and how to sort them out yourself. That way, your engine will run better, you’ll save on fuel, and you’ll avoid costly repairs down the line.

What exactly does a feed pump do?

The feed pump, also known as the fuel pump or fuel supply pump, is responsible for transferring diesel from the fuel tank, via the fine filter, to your engine’s injection pump. The injection pump then sprays the fuel into the cylinders.

Electric or mechanical fuel pump

Globally speaking, there are two types of fuel pumps: electrical and mechanical. In older diesel engines, the feed pump is usually mechanically driven. Newer diesel engines often feature electric feed pumps. These fuel pumps are more consistent, quieter, and more compact.

Why does a fuel pump go broke

A faulty pump can have all sorts of causes. These could include

  • Wear and tear
  • Clogged by dirt
  • Corrosion from water in diesel
  • Overheating under heavy load.

Air bubbles in the system, contaminated fuel, or running dry for too long can also cause damage.

Feed pump Ford Marine, Thornycroft

What happens if the feed pump isn’t working properly?

If the feed pump isn’t working properly, the injection pump (high-pressure fuel pump) will receive insufficient fuel. Consequences include poor or slow starting, reduced pulling power when boating, and in the worst-case scenario, the engine cutting out. Internal wear can also increase if the fuel supply is irregular.

Engine starting problems

Trouble starting your engine, or is it barely starting at all? A faulty feed pump could be the culprit. If the feed pump isn’t pushing enough diesel towards the injection pump, there simply won’t be enough fuel getting into the cylinders. This makes starting difficult, or impossible.

Rough running of the engine

Got an engine that’s juddering, spluttering, or hesitating? Chances are, the fuel supply isn’t as consistent as it should be. This unevenness causes fluctuating engine speeds. You’ll notice it more at higher revs, as the fuel pump has to work harder then.

Air bubbles or fuel leaks

Are you seeing fuel leaks around the feed pump? The pump is probably worn out, or the seals are no longer any good. It’s also possible there’s air in the system. Air bubbles in the lines cause sputtering and a loss of power.

More wear and dirt

Seeing rust, corrosion, or a build-up of grime around the feed pump? The fuel pump has likely seen better days too. It’s also possible that the filter in or near the feed pump has become clogged. Cleaning it in this case is a good idea.

What you’ll need to replace your broken fuel pump yourself

Fancy yourself a bit of a DIY whizz? Then swapping out the fuel pump is a job you can tackle yourself. You’ll need the right tools for the job, mind. Make sure you’ve got the following bits and bobs to hand:

  • A new feed pump that naturally suits your brand and type
  • Socket and spanner sets in the right sizes for your bolts
  • in the right sizes for your bolts. to loosen hose clamps.
  • A bleed key or pump bellows, for bleeding
  • New gaskets or O-rings

A step-by-step guide to replacing your faulty fuel pump yourself

Time to get cracking. We’ll walk you through replacing the fuel pump, step by step. Got any questions? Don’t hesitate to get in touch. We’re happy to help.

Step 1: Turn off the engine and let it cool down.

First and foremost, always prioritise safety by letting your engine cool down. Also, shut off the fuel supply. If you’re working with an electric pump, disconnect the battery terminals too, if applicable. Safety first!

Step 2: Find the fuel pump

The feed pump is usually found between the fuel tank and the injection pump. With a mechanical pump, you’ll typically find the feed pump next to the engine block, complete with a manual lever.

Step 3: Disconnect fuel lines

Dsconnect the lines next. A little diesel might leak out. Relieve any pressure with the hand pump provided before disconnecting the pipes.

Step 4: Unscrew the old pump

Pry the faulty fuel pump out using the correct spanners. Sometimes there might be a gasket or an O-ring in between. Remove that, then give everything a good clean. That way, there’s no grime getting in the way of your new pump.

Step 5: Fit the new pump

Seat your new pump with the correct gaskets and washers. Make sure the pump is level and secure. Then, tighten the bolts, but don’t overtighten them. Also, ensure you tighten the bolts evenly.

Step 6: Bleed the system

Reconnect your fuel lines and use the hand primer or an external bleeding pump to fill the system with diesel. Then, bleed the system. You usually do this via the nipple on the filter or the injection pump.

Step 7: Start the engine

Start the engine and let it idle for a bit. Check for any leaks and that everything sounds as it should. Does it run smoothly? Then the job is done and you’ll no longer have trouble with that faulty fuel pump.

Common mistakes when replacing a fuel pump

To prevent mistakes, here’s a list of common errors. This way, you can avoid them when replacing your fuel pump.

Using the wrong pump model

Not every pump fits every engine. Choose a pump that matches your make and model. If you’re unsure, please feel free to get in touch with us for expert advice.

Reusing old gaskets

Occasionally, DIYers might be tempted to reuse old washers. We always advise fitting new ones. This ensures you don’t end up with knackered parts and everything’s shipshape.

Wrong or too tight fitting

When fitting the pump, it’s important to tighten the bolts by hand, with even pressure. Overtightening isn’t good. Make sure it’s also straight.

Forgot to bleed

Bleeding the system is important after replacing a fuel pump. Air in the system will cause starting problems or a poorly running engine. So, always bleed it thoroughly.

Fuel pump on the blink? We’ll sort it!

Replacing a faulty fuel pump requires precision, a bit of nerve, and the right tools. Order your new fuel pump easily and quickly through our webshop. We have a wide range of models from well-known manufacturers such as Vetus, Volvo Penta, Mercedes, Kubota, and Peugeot.

Replacing a duff fuel pump needs a steady hand, a bit of guts, and the right kit. Get your new fuel pump sorted lickety-split from our online shop. We’ve got a cracking selection from the usual suspects like Vetus, Volvo Penta, Mercedes, Kubota, and Peugeot. Stuck or not quite ready to dive in? Don’t hesitate to get in touch. We’re happy to point you in the right direction. Based on your specific situation, we can usually tell you quickly which feed pump you need.

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How to replace your boat’s fuel filter

Replacing your boat’s fuel filter is a crucial part of maintaining your diesel engine. This filter prevents impurities, such as dirt and water, from reaching the engine via the fuel. Without a properly functioning fuel filter, you risk starting problems, reduced engine performance, and even serious engine damage.

In this blog, we’ll explain step-by-step how to install a new fuel filter, what tools you’ll need, and how to avoid mistakes. Whether you’re an experienced DIYer or just starting out, this guide will help you get started.

What you’ll need to replace a fuel filter

A good preparation is half the battle. Before you start replacing the fuel filter, make sure you have all the necessary materials and tools to hand. This will not only prevent delays but also minimise the risk of mistakes.

General supplies

For each type of filter, you’ll need the following items.

  • Cloths or absorbent material: Essential for soaking up spilled fuel and keeping your workspace clean.
  • A collection tray: For catching contaminated fuel and any lea.
  • A new fuel filter: Make sure you choose the correct model that fits your engine. Consult the engine’s manual or seek advice from our specialists.
  • Tools: Think screwdrivers, spanners, and filter pliers. These are needed for loosening and tightening the filter.

Specific requirements per filter type

  • Screw-on filters: A filter wrench to unscrew the old filter. If necessary, a rubber sealing ring to ensure a perfect seal.
  • Cassette types: Additional sealing rings. These are often supplied with the new filter, but always check that they are present.
  • Separ filters: A Separ filter is designed to separate water and dirt from fuel and contains a water-repellent filter element. It is important to check whether the filter element is reusable and if specific cleaning agents are required. Additionally, it is advisable to have a spare filter element to hand in case the old filter is full and no longer usable.

Step-by-step guide to replacing a fuel filter

Replacing a fuel filter might seem complicated, but with this structured approach, it’s a job you can do yourself. Below you’ll find a detailed guide per filter type.

Preparation

  1. Turn off the engine: Switch off the engine and wait for it to cool down completely. This prevents fire hazards and minimises the risk of burns.
  2. Work in a well-ventilated area: Fuel vapours can be harmful and flammable.
  3. Turn off the fuel supply: Close the fuel shut-off tap to prevent fuel from continuing to flow through the system during replacement. Check for any leakage at the valve, especially with older fuel lines.
  4. Place a drip tray: Place an oil and fuel-resistant drip tray under the filter to catch any leaking fuel. Use a rag to mop up any small spills immediately.

Replace screw-on filter

  1. Unscrew the old filter: Use a filter wrench to carefully unscrew the filter. Be careful to remove the rubber seal if it has been left behind on the engine, as a seal left behind can cause leaks.
  2. Check the new seal: Smear a thin layer of diesel oil onto the seal. This will ensure a better seal and prevent the filter from being overtightened.
  3. Fill the new filter with clean diesel: If your engine has a mechanical fuel pump, fill the new screw-on filter with clean diesel first. This will prevent air bubbles in the fuel system. (Note: with modern engines that have an electric pump, this is not necessary. With these, it can actually have the opposite effect and send dirt to the injectors. The engine’s manual is the definitive guide for this step.)
  4. Fit the new filter: Screw the filter on by hand until it sits snugly, then tighten it a further quarter turn. Do not use a filter wrench to tighten the new filter, as this can damage the seal.

Cassette types replace

  1. Remove the housing: Use the correct tool (usually a spanner or screwdriver) to carefully unscrew the filter housing and remove the old filter element.
  2. Clean the housing: Use a lint-free cloth to clean the inside of the housing. Avoid harsh cleaning agents as they can damage seals. Check for and remove any old seal rings left inside the housing.
  3. Install the new filter: Install the new cassette filter ensuring the sealing ring is correctly positioned and not twisted. Screw the housing on firmly, but do not overtighten to avoid damaging the seals.

Replacing or cleaning the separator filter

  1. Remove the filter element: Remove the filter element and dispose of the filter and old fuel.
  2. Fill the housing: Fill the filter housing with clean fuel and refit the filter. After refitting, check for fuel leaks at the connections.

Bleeding the fuel system

After replacing the fuel filter, you need to bleed the fuel system to prevent air in the lines from causing engine malfunctions or starting problems. Not all engines have manual bleeding, so check your engine’s manual for the correct procedure.

  1. Check if bleeding is necessary: Some modern engines with an electric fuel pump bleed automatically as soon as you turn the ignition on. Older or mechanical fuel systems need to be bled manually.
  2. Open the bleed screw: Undo the screw slightly until you see fuel emerging.
  3. Manually pump the fuel pump: Keep pumping until there are no more air bubbles in the fuel.
  4. Close the screw: Tighten the screw firmly, but not excessively to avoid damage, and start the engine to check that it runs smoothly.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

Replacing the filter yourself can be a challenge, especially if you’re unfamiliar with the procedure. Here are some common mistakes and tips to avoid them.

Using the wrong filter

A new fuel filter must always be compatible with your engine. Using an unsuitable filter can lead to leaks or insufficient filtration. Always check the specifications and use an original or manufacturer-recommended filter.

Bleeding the system incorrectly

Air in the fuel system can have serious consequences, such as starting problems or a poorly functioning engine. Ensure you always bleed the system after replacement.

Reusing old seals

When replacing a filter, it is important to also replace the sealing rings. A damaged ring can lead to fuel leakage, which is not only inefficient but also dangerous. Always use a new sealing ring and check that the old ring has not been left behind on the engine.

Tightening the filter too much or not enough

A common mistake is overtightening the filter, which can damage the sealing ring. Conversely, a loose filter can cause leaks. Tighten the filter by hand until it seats properly, then give it an additional quarter turn. Do not use tools to tighten the filter unless specified by the manufacturer.

No preventative maintenance

Ignoring a clogged fuel filter can lead to severe engine damage. Regularly carry out preventative maintenance to extend your engine’s lifespan. Therefore, cleaning your fuel filter is a worthwhile endeavour.

Why a well-functioning fuel filter is important

A fuel filter plays a key role in ensuring your engine runs smoothly. It prevents unwanted particles, like dirt, rust, and water, from entering the fuel and subsequently the engine. If this happens, it can not only reduce engine performance but also lead to serious damage.

Protection against serious damage

When the filter loses its capacity to trap impurities, they can still enter the engine. This can damage the injectors or even lead to damage to the fuel pump. Injectors are highly precise components that are extremely sensitive to dirt and water. A damaged injector requires costly repairs or replacement.

Optimal fuel consumption

When a clogged fuel filter causes reduced flow, the engine has to work harder to draw in fuel. This not only leads to higher costs due to increased fuel consumption but can also result in reduced engine performance, such as a decrease in power and speed.

Longer engine life

A clogged fuel filter can have serious long-term consequences for your engine’s lifespan. If dirt and water enter the engine, they can cause corrosion in the fuel lines and vital components, such as the injectors and fuel pump. Furthermore, these impurities can cause the engine to overheat more quickly or even seize up completely.

How to recognise a clogged fuel filter?

It’s important to know when a fuel filter is getting clogged so you can intervene in good time. Here are some common symptoms:

  • Starting problems: A blocked filter can impede the fuel supply, making it difficult to get the engine going.
  • Reduced engine performance: If you notice the engine is losing power or running unevenly, a blocked filter could be the culprit.
  • Increased fuel consumption: An inefficient fuel system due to a blocked filter causes the engine to use more fuel than usual.
  • Rough idling: When the engine doesn’t run smoothly at idle, it can indicate a blockage in the filter system.
  • Smoke from the exhaust: Excessive or dark smoke can be a sign that the engine is struggling to combust fuel properly due to a lack of clean fuel.
  • Warning light: On some modern engines, a dashboard warning light may indicate that the filter is full and needs replacing.

If you notice one or more of these symptoms, it’s advisable to check the filter straight away and likely replace the fuel filter as a precaution. Want to know how to test when your fuel filter needs replacing? Then read our other blog where we explain when to change a fuel filter.

Replace the boat’s fuel filter yourself

Replacing the fuel filter is a relatively simple job that is important for maintaining the performance and lifespan of your engine. With the right preparation, the correct tools and this comprehensive guide, you can carry out this job yourself.

Do you have any questions or are you unsure which filter you need? Get in touch with our experts. They’ll be happy to help you!

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When should I change the fuel filter of my diesel engine?

When there is water, diesel bacteria (sludge) or dirt (under) in or on the fuel tank, it is time to replace the boat’s engine fuel filter.

Therefore, check the filters of the fuel system regularly. E.g. annually when preparing the boat for winter. Do you see water or dirt in the inspection hole of the filter? Then it is likely that there is also water, diesel bacteria (sludge) or dirt at the bottom of the fuel tank. In that case, replace the diesel fuel filter.

Also read: Slime strings and clogged fuel filters

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Slime strings and clogged fuel filters.

Slime strings & clogged fuel filters. 

Diesel bacteria: for those who are unfamiliar with this phenomenon, we can assure that prevention is better than cure. Anyone who has experienced it won’t forget any time soon. In less than no time, fuel filters or even complete pipes and pumps are clogged up and stop working due to long black flakes and brown strings. Say goodbye to your boat trip.

Diesel bacteria can be compared to algae in an aquarium. They mainly form on the bottom layer of water and diesel in the tank. Water is heavier than most fuels and will collect at the bottom of the tank. Because the intake or drain valve of the fuel pump is often in a higher position, the water can stay in the tank for a long period of time.

Bacteria in your diesel?

Like many fuels, diesel is a natural product and contains microbes. The right conservation and treatment will cause little or no problems with bacterial growth. But with the right breeding environment, such as water, they will multiply rapidly. Bacteria are always present in the fuel, but also in the outside air from where they can enter the tank through venting holes. Condensation and oxygen from outside, in combination with a malfunctioning water separator, makes a fuel tank the perfect breeding ground. Especially in water sports, the circulation speed of the fuel tank is not always the same.

aanbieding-delphi-296-dieselfilter-waterafscheider

Condensation as breeding ground

A fuel tank is usually mounted on the inside of the boat. Therefore, the tank cools down at night and warms up during the day. Oxygen that moves through the process of heating and cooling always contains moisture. Warm air that cools down forms drops of water as condensation to the tank wall.The water drips down and sinks to the bottom of the tank, below the diesel. Diesel has a lower specific gravity than water. A practical tip is to keep the air space above the fuel as small as possible. Always fill up the tank completely when you are planning not to use the boat for a lengthy period of time (use winter diesel before the winter break). After all, the less air exists at the upper inside part of the tank where oxygen and condensation can settle on the walls of the tank, the better. Warmth and humidity may be the perfect conditions for diesel bacteria to multiply rapidly, but they can also do their work during winter. For that reason is a clean and dry tank ventilation in the right place desirable.

Rain and waves

Also, the incorrect position of e.g. the tank filler cap or vent may quickly cause water to accumulate inside the tank. Things like rainwater that seeps through an outside air vent, or splashes of water that hit the deck and get into your tank, must be taken into consideration. Also remember the correct sealing of the diesel filler cap on the outside and periodically check the seals inside the cap.

Is this new?

The government has ordered that diesel must contain less sulphur than in the past. Burning sulphur is very damaging to the environment, but sulphur also stopped bacteria growth in diesel in the past. Moreover, since recently a few percent of biodiesel is added to the diesel. Biodiesel is extracted from vegetable products and is therefore gaining importance as the world’s oil reserves are dwindling. But biodiesel has also the ability to attract water quickly and contains a higher percentage of microbes.

dahlflowdiagram

What can be done about it?

If possible, check visually for water formation in the tank, like a large “bubble” of water at the bottom. Never checked or drained this before? In that case, this will be a good start. Does the problem recur frequently? Check what the cause could be as described above, e.g. a malfunction or a venting problem, etc. The supply pump that feeds the fuel to the engine often pumps the diesel in the tank several times around via the return line. In this way, the tank is often kept clean and filtered. A correct filter installation with a water separator is able to collect water from the tank. Since water is heavier than diesel, it is collected at the bottom of the glass. The glass should show clear diesel. If clouded, it would indicate contamination. Frequent contamination and hard to drain the tank? The solution may lie in an external pump unit that continuously circulates the diesel through a filter set and separates the water.

Fuel filters

Water separators

Fuel pumps

Hoses and pipes

We welcome your comments or experiences!