Author: abmarineservice

Perhaps you’ve experienced it before: you’re enjoying a nice boat trip when you notice the engine suddenly sounds different, and you see no water jet coming from the cooling water outlet. The temperature is rising, and the problem is clear: your outboard motor is not cooling.

Don’t panic, this is a common occurrence. With a bit of DIY skill, you can track down the cause and fix the problem yourself. To help you, we’ll explain all about the possible causes and solutions for an outboard motor that’s not cooling.

Why isn’t my outboard motor cooling?

If the engine stops circulating cooling water, the heat gets trapped in the engine block. Whether you’re sailing with a small outboard or have a larger diesel engine on board, it’s a problem in both cases. Especially on warmer days of the year or during longer trips.

Without cooling, damage can occur to the pistons, cylinder walls, or even the complete drive. These are the first signs of a disturbance in the cooling system:

• A weak or no stream of cooling water comes out of the exhaust.
• The engine temperature rises, and you can hear the engine having to work ‘harder’.
• You receive a warning signal or the engine will suddenly cut out.
• In modern engines, a fault in electronic sensors can also disrupt the cooling system or cause an error message.

The fault is usually located in one of these three places: at the water supply (e.g. a blocked intake or dirt in the filter), within the flow itself (e.g. due to a worn impeller), or at the end of the route (e.g. a blocked exhaust or faulty thermostat). We will go through these parts step-by-step shortly, so you know what to do if your engine suddenly overheats.

This is how your cooling system should work

The cooling system of an outboard engine isn’t complicated, especially with models featuring a wet exhaust. Its operation involves three steps:

1. Drawing in water
   The engine draws in cooling water through a water intake, usually in or just above the leg. This opening can easily get clogged by weed, sand or dirt – especially if you’re boating in shallow or overgrown water.
2. Pumping water around with the impeller
   The impeller, a rubber paddle wheel in the water pump, ensures the cooling water is pumped through the engine. The impeller wears down with use and needs to be replaced regularly to prevent problems.
3. Discharging heat via the exhaust
   The heated cooling water flows out via the outlet, thus dissipating the heat. On most engines, you’ll see this as a jet of water just above the water’s surface.

Your outboard motor therefore stays nicely at temperature without any problems. The thermostat plays an important role in this: it only opens when the engine is at temperature. If it doesn’t work properly, the flow stops, even if the impeller is still fine. If something goes wrong in this process, due to a blocked intake, air bubbles in the hoses, a worn impeller or a stuck thermostat, the temperature rises quickly.

Possible causes of cooling system blockage

We’ve listed five common causes of a blocked cooling system. In many cases, you can fix it yourself.

Dirt in the impeller: replace the impeller

The impeller is the heart of the cooling system. This rubbery little paddle wheel is located in the water pump, just above the stern. If debris such as sand, silt, plastic, or water plants get stuck in it, the paddles can become damaged or deformed. Sometimes, pieces even break off and then block the pipes.

A worn or damaged impeller needs replacing. You can quite easily do this yourself (see this explanation: replacing the impeller). Pay attention to the direction of rotation of the blades, which must match the direction of rotation of the engine. We’ve recently started stocking complete Recmar maintenance kits at AB Marine Service, specifically for outboard motors. These also contain a new impeller, along with other parts for routine maintenance.

Salt crystals and algae: flush the system

If you regularly navigate in saltwater, there’s a higher chance of salt crystal deposits forming in your cooling system. This is particularly true if you don’t regularly flush the engine with fresh water after use in saltwater. The salt in the pipes will crystallise and eventually block the flow. Lime scale, algae, and other organic matter can also build up, especially during warmer months.

Therefore, flush your engine regularly, not just when winterising, but also in between. Many engines have a special flushing connection for a flushing kit or garden hose. This will prevent pipe blockages and obstructions.

A faulty thermostat: check the thermostat

The thermostat controls when the coolant flows through the engine. It only opens at a certain temperature (usually between 50 and 60 degrees Celsius). If it stays shut, it blocks the water flow and the engine can overheat, even if the impeller is still working correctly.

You can test the thermostat yourself by removing it from the engine and placing it in a bowl of hot water. If it doesn’t open? Then it’s time for a replacement.

Obstruction at the inlet: ensure water flows into the engine

The intake, often at the bottom or just behind the stern tube, can become blocked by weed, plastic, sand, or small shells. This happens quickly, especially when boating in shallow or still water.

You can unbolt the outdrive to inspect the intake, but be aware: you’ll usually need to disconnect the shift cable before you can remove the outdrive. Also, thoroughly check the grille and passage for dirt or damage.

Worn hoses and gaskets: maintain outboard motor

Is your outboard motor a bit older? Then it could also be a matter of wear and tear. Hoses can develop cracks or become porous after a long time. Rubber seals around the thermostat and water pump can also start to leak.

You’ll often notice this through a weaker cooling water jet or moisture around hose connections. So, if in doubt, it’s wise to thoroughly check seals and pipes, and not just look at the moving parts. Regularly replacing gaskets and pipes prevents many problems.

What can you do yourself with cooling problems?

Time to take action. If you’re a DIY enthusiast, the first step is to trace the problem based on a thorough inspection. After that, it might be time for maintenance or replacing key parts to keep the engine running smoothly.

Start with a thorough inspection

First, Check if coolant is coming out of the engine. Is the flow weak or absent? Then something is clearly wrong. Then go through these points:

• Check that the water intake is clear. This is usually located in or just above the stern. Remove any dirt or overgrowth if necessary.
• Open the bonnet and check that the hoses, connections, and impeller housing are still intact.
• Check that the water outlet is not blocked. On many engines, this is located just above the water level. You can carefully clear the hole with a piece of fishing line or a thin pin.

Ensure timely maintenance

Whether you clock up a lot of running hours or the boat has been laid up for a long time, ensure it is properly maintained.

• Flush your engine with fresh water after use in salt water.
• Regularly check the hoses, gaskets, and tailpiece for cracks, drying out, or leaks.
• Have your engine properly winterised at the end of the season. This will prevent deposits and corrosion while it is stored.

Replace broken parts

Sometimes it’s time to replace parts. This can also be done preventatively.

• Impeller: Replace it annually if you do a lot of sailing. If you don’t use it much, every two years is usually sufficient, but check it if in doubt. An impeller is included as standard in our Recmar maintenance kits.
• Hoses and seals: As these get older, they can leak or lose pressure. Timely replacement prevents damage.
• Thermostat: Check it by placing it in hot water. If it does not open at ± 55°C, then replace it.

Additional tips to prevent cooling problems/strong>

Finally, here are a few extra tips to prevent any damage.

• Always use parts that are resistant to salt and wear.
• Reposition the tailpiece exactly as it was during disassembly. Don’t forget to securely fasten the shift rod.
• Fit the impeller in the correct direction of rotation. The vanes should bend in the direction of rotation of the motor shaft.

Outboard not cooling? Get it sorted with AB Marine Service

An outboard motor that isn’t cooling properly is a nuisance, but usually easily fixable. Need new parts? At AB Marine Service, you’ll find everything you’re looking for: impellers, thermostats, hosesn, gaskets, and more, for example. Recently, you’ll also find a complete Recmar maintenance kits, specifically for outboards such as Yamaha. This allows you to replace the impeller, gaskets, and other wear-prone parts in one go. Can’t quite figure it out? Feel free to contact us for specific advice.

Imagine this: you’re out on your boat on a gloriously sunny day, the water as still as glass. The perfect time for a leisurely cruise. But then you notice a bit of a wobble at lower speeds, a bit of a bounce at higher speeds, and that you’re also guzzling fuel. What a waste!

Take your boating experience to the next level with trim tabs. And not just any trim tabs, but the advanced, automatic systems from the renowned Zipwake brand. We’d love to explain what trim tabs are, what benefits they offer, and why Zipwake’s are particularly interesting.

What are trim tabs and why do you need them?

Trim tabs are also known as trim plates. They are flat plates of metal or plastic that you mount to the underside of the transom (the back of your boat). They improve the trim, which is the angle of the boat relative to the water’s surface.

Thanks to trim tabs, your boat will be more stable, easier to control, ride more smoothly, and consume less fuel. The tabs keep the boat balanced, whether you’re sailing alone, with passengers, or with heavy gear on one side of the boat. They are particularly effective on fast-planing boats like RIBs, centre console boats, or sporty tenders.

Lower fuel consumption

A boat that’s listing or has its bow too high, glides less efficiently through the water. This means more fuel consumption. Properly adjusted trim tabs resolve this problem. Especially at higher speeds or on longer trips with a planing boat, you’ll really see the difference in fuel consumption, particularly with current fuel prices.

More control and stability

A boat quickly loses balance. Trim tabs correct leaning caused by wind, waves, or uneven weight distribution. This makes steering easier and the boat more stable, noticeably improving safety and comfort.

Get on plane quicker

Do you like fast boating? Then it’s ideal to get on plane quicker. The hull comes out of the water, and then the speed suddenly increases significantly. Trim tabs help to get the boat on plane faster. You get up to speed sooner, manoeuvre more easily, and glide smoothly over the water, even with extra passengers on board. Zipwake automatically corrects both pitch (bow up/down) and roll (side-to-side tilt), which provides noticeably more comfort, especially in choppy water.

Smoother ride

Steering boats without trim tabs can sometimes be a choppier, more lurching, and bumpier affair. Especially at lower speeds and in rougher waters, you don’t always feel in complete control. Trim tabs provide smooth lines. This makes long trips a lot more pleasant.

Even load on the engine and parts.

Trim tabs provide the ideal angle between the engine, the boat’s transom, and the water’s surface. Because everything runs smoother, the outboard engine, cylinders, and hull are also less stressed. Everything works well together and lasts longer.

Zipwake versus traditional trim tabs

Anyone who’s sailed with trim tabs before will know you have to adjust them manually. This requires experience: you need to sense when the bow needs to go up or down and what the right angle is for optimal balance. It’s not always straightforward, especially in changing conditions or with heavier loads.

Zipwake takes a different approach. This system uses sensors to measure the boat’s trim in real-time, and automatically adjusts the tabs for you, no input required. This makes the system ideal for both novice and experienced boaters alike.

Electric trim tabsn

The complete Zipwake system uses sensors to constantly monitor the boat’s trim. It automatically adjusts the position of the patented smart tabs to achieve the ideal ride. This means you won’t have to faff about with buttons, nor will you need years of experience to know how to set the smart tabs.

Zipwake makes trimming a doddle, especially if your boat is well-balanced weight-wise. It’s a lifesaver, particularly in changing conditions, such as when moving from a canal to a lake. The system adjusts in a jiffy, keeping the boat perfectly level without you lifting a finger.

Easy assembly

Zipwake’s smart tabs also guarantee easy installation. The Zipwake interceptors mount compactly to the underside of the transom, and they work with vertical slats instead of horizontal plates. The construction is compact, and the wiring is easy to conceal. This means the system is soon up and running.

For handy boat owners, installation is quite doable. Those who prefer to have it installed can also outsource it, but the fitting is fundamentally simpler than with some traditional hydraulic systems.

Sleek control panel

Fancy a manual override after all? That’s also an option. This way, you still have complete control over the system yourself, should you prefer not to rely on the automatic function. With a clear control panel featuring straightforward buttons, you can set everything according to your preferences.

The control panel provides you with key figures and also shows the current status of the patented smart tabs. It’s always good fun to have a play around with the settings yourself. Therefore, a control panel isn’t strictly essential, but opting for the full package might be a nice touch.

Less drag, more speed

Because Zipwake operates faster than traditional tabs, there’s hardly a moment when your boat isn’t perfectly balanced on the water. This means less drag and more efficiency. The electric trim tabs make every boat trip sportier and safer.

Patented smart tabs

Zipwake’s technology is patented. It’s also resistant to saltwater, high pressure, and frequent use. Typically, Zipwake’s systems last significantly longer than the competition’s, especially if you opt for Zipwake’s complete product set.

When to switch to Zipwake?

If you’re looking to have a smoother ride, use less fuel, and love optimising your boat, then Zipwake’s trim tabs are highly recommended. They make a world of difference to all sailing characteristics, especially on more powerful boats or vessels with a heavier hull.

Do you already have experience with trim tabs, but not yet with Zipwake’s? Then a whole new world will open up for you with this automatic system. You no longer must constantly make adjustments yourself and can keep your attention on other things. This brings peace and quiet on board.

Trim tabs: feel free to get in touch with us

Fancy a smoother ride, saving fuel, and getting more enjoyment out of every boat trip? You can easily and quickly order Zipwake’s patented smart tabs from AB Marine Service. Still have questions? Don’t hesitate to get in touch. We’re happy to help you make the right choice.

For many people, a boat is like a second home, but on the water. And just like in your home, you’d rather not be without hot water. Installing a water heater on your boat provides more comfort and is often very practical.

Here’s why an onboard water heater is indispensable for your boat, how one works, and the best way to install it. We’ll also offer advice on choosing the right one for your vessel. Our top recommendations are Webasto boilers.

Why a boat boiler is essential

Most boats come with conveniences like a navigation system, a hob and a small galley. So why wouldn’t you enjoy hot water on board too? We’ve listed eight benefits of having a water heater on board.

Having a nice warm shower

Let’s get a shower started. After a refreshing dip in the morning or a long day sailing in the sun, you’ll want to freshen up. If you’re docked at a marina, you can use the ablutions block. But with a boiler and an onboard shower, you can shower anywhere, just like at home. That’s much nicer than a cold shower.

Wash up with hot water

Even washing up is a doddle with hot water from a boiler. With a small boiler, say 15 or 20 litres, you’ll have enough capacity to get the dishes thoroughly clean. That way, everything stays fresh, even on longer trips.

Washing hands and hygiene

Got some fishing, tinkering or other bits and bobs to do while you’re out and about? You’ll want to give your hands, feet, or face a proper clean up afterwards. And let’s be honest, it’s a lot nicer with hot water than cold.

Doing the laundry and cleaning

Going away for a while and don’t want to have to keep going ashore? With a boiler, you can do small washes or rinse your clothes with warm water. Making soapy water is also a doddle. This way, you can keep the boat, clothes, and much more nice and clean.

Making cooking a lot easier

Making a cuppa or cooking your dinner is also a lot easier when you’ve got hot water on tap. Pop it straight into the pan and your meal will be bubbling away in no time, or you’ll have your tea or coffee brewed in a flash. With a boiler, it’s all as simple as can be, just like in your own kitchen.

Wise use of energy

Many marine boilers work with a heat exchanger linked to the engine’s cooling system. When the engine is running, the water in the boiler warms up by itself. Many models also have an electric element, so you have hot water when you’re stationary and plugged into shore power.

Getting ready for winter is easier

The season’s over and you’re getting the boat ready for winter? Even then, an onboard boiler is a godsend. You’ll have hot water on hand for thoroughly cleaning parts or keeping them frost-free.

Cold water? That’s a thing of the past!

Ultimately, an onboard boiler is an overall upgrade to your onboard comfort. You’ll have all the conveniences and can make guests feel more at home too. With an onboard boiler, you’re increasingly becoming a floating home.

How does an onboard boiler work?

A boiler on a boat works fundamentally the same way as one at home: cold water enters the tank, gets heated, and comes out warm. However, there are a few key differences.

At home, heating is usually done by gas or an electric boiler. On board, this happens via the engine’s cooling water system (heat exchanger) or an electric heating element. When the engine’s running, the heat exchanger automatically heats the water in the boiler. If the boat’s in the harbour, the boiler often switches to electricity.

Depending on the size of your boat, you can opt for a compact boiler of, for example, 15 litres or a larger one of 40 litres or more. You connect the water heater to the boat’s water system, with a cold water supply and an outlet to the tap or shower. Often, a pressure pump or hydrophore is needed to ensure the water flows with sufficient pressure.

Step-by-step plan: Fitting a boiler on your boat

Installing a boiler might sound complicated, but with the right preparation and a bit of know-how, it’s perfectly manageable. Just bear in mind that the process can vary from boat to boat. For instance, you’ll need to consider the space in the locker and the diameter of the hoses.

The necessary materials

For installing a boiler on your boat, you’ll need a few things. The following bits and bobs will come in handy:

• A suitable boiler
• Hoses and clamps
• Assembly tools

Step 1: Buy a suitable boiler

It starts with purchasing the right boiler. We recommend Webasto boilers. These boilers are suitable for onboard use and available with a capacity of 15 litres up to 75 litres.

Bear in mind the available space and the weight of the boiler. Assume a fully water-filled boiler. An overly heavy boiler could unbalance your boat.

Step 2: Find the right spot

Keep heat loss to a minimum by keeping the hoses between the engine and the boiler as short as possible. Also, prevent the cooling water circuit from being higher than the expansion vessel of the engine cooling system.

If that’s not possible, equip the cooling water hoses with a bleed nipple at the highest point. Install boilers with the drain tap at the bottom so the contents can be drained.

Step 3: Use the right hoses

Use a high-temperature, high-pressure, coolant-resistant water hose. Use robust, non-toxic hoses for the water hose. Clamp all hoses with stainless steel hose clips.

When it’s all hooked up:

• Fill the boiler with water.
• Let the pump run until water comes out of all the taps.
• Also bleed the hot water side, to prevent air bubbles in the system.
• Check if hot water is available when the engine is running or when shore power is connected.

Choose the right boat boiler at AB Marine Service

Not every boiler is right for every boat. So, it’s crucial to pick the correct one, especially considering the space you’ve got and what you’ll be using it for.

We recommend opting for a Webasto boiler from the Isotemp range. These boilers have been specifically designed for use on boats, ships, and yachts. At AB Marine Service, we supply these high-quality boilers directly from stock.

A durable design with stainless steel

Webasto boilers are made from stainless steel. This makes them ideally suited for operating on water. They last for years, without the tank becoming porous or leaking. Furthermore, they are easy to keep clean.

Compact dimensions

Webasto knows that onboard space is often at a premium. That’s why their boilers are compact. Every centimetre counts. You can often fit a compact Webasto water heater into a locker or under a seat without having to move other equipment.

A powerful heating element

The Webasto boilers cleverly utilise a heat exchanger. When the engine is running, you’ll have hot water in no time. Even when you’re plugged into shore power, the boiler can still provide hot water. This means you’ll practically never be without hot water.

Installing a Boiler? Let AB Marine Service be your partner

Installing a boiler on a boat requires a bit of preparation and know-how. If you’re a bit handy, take on the challenge and bring more comfort and convenience to your second home on the water.

Unsure which boiler would be best for your needs? Or perhaps you’ve got some questions about getting it fitted? Don’t hesitate to get in touch. We’ll gladly help you find the perfect water heater and can offer tips based on your boat’s specific details.

If you own a boat, you’ll know that maintenance never stops. One important part not to overlook here is treating the underwater hull. This part of your boat really takes a battering.

The underwater hull is always in contact with the water, be it fresh or salt. Without treatment, problems like osmosis, corrosion, or stubborn growth of algae, mussels, and more lurk. We’ll explain how to prevent that.

No boat can do without a proper underwater hull

The underwater hull is, in a sense, the foundation of your boat. We’re talking about the part of the hull that sits below the waterline. This makes it susceptible to damage. Think, for example, of micro-organisms attaching themselves to the coating, or corrosion if metal is exposed.

With a polyester hull, you can get blisters and moisture ingress in the gelcoat. This is better known as osmosis. With a steel vessel, rust formation and electrolysis are the culprits. Solutions include a robust paint system and good anti-fouling.

Why it’s important to look after your boat’s hull

If you’re not yet convinced why it’s so important to keep your boat’s hull in good condition, we’re happy to outline a few reasons. Proper treatment extends its lifespan. Without treatment, problems lurk.

Anti-fouling

If your boat’s in still or slow-moving water, you might find it gets covered in mussels, algae, and other sea life. Sometimes, this can even slow you down. A fresh coat of self-polishing anti-fouling could be the answer.

Protection against osmosis and blisters

With polyester boats, osmosis is also a potential problem. water penetrates the gelcoat and causes blisters which can eventually affect the ship’s structure. Prevent osmosis from developing by, for example, applying a protective coating.

Corrosion and rust protection

Rust is a constant worry on a steel yacht or any other metal boat. If left untreated, metal will eventually go, well, rusty. A fresh coat of paint or some epoxy will keep rust at bay and mean you get more joy out of your hull for longer.

Less fuel consumption

When your hull is spick and span, it automatically means less drag in the water. This allows you to reach higher speeds and use less fuel. When anti-fouling is applied correctly, this also saves you money.

Safety and reliability

If your hull has been compromised by osmosis, corrosion, or some other issue, it could put your safety at risk down the line. Regular attention to your underwater hull will ensure you can keep on sailing with complete peace of mind.

Keeping the value of your boat

A boat with an untidy hull loses value. A well-maintained boat without damage or scratches is more appealing to potential buyers. Therefore, keeping your hull in good condition is good for your boat’s value.

Hull maintenance plan

Tackling your boat’s hull yourself might sound like a bit of a chore. However, if you’re a handy sort of chap, with the right approach and a bit of time, you can get quite far.

Step 1: Jet wash and clean the boat

Take the boat out of the water using a boat lift and spray the hull clean with a high-pressure washer. Start at the waterline and work your way down. Remove algae, mussels, and other growth. For stubborn dirt, you can use a polyester or plastic cleaner.

Step 2: Inspect and check the hull

Carefully examine the hull. For fibreglass, check for bumps or blisters (osmosis), and for steel hulls, look for rust and corrosion. Also, inspect areas where the anti-fouling has worn off or is no longer adhering properly. Is the layer worn out? If so, use an anti-fouling remover to safely strip the old paint.

Step 3: Repair and fill minor damage

Right, if you spot any damage or rough patches, you’ll want to sort those out first. Fill any cracks and holes with an epoxy filler suitable for boats. Let that dry thoroughly, then sand the surface smooth again. That way, you’ll have a solid base layer.

Step 4: Degrease and dry the hull

Thoroughly degrease the hull and ensure it’s dust-free. This is crucial for the adhesion of new coats. Allow everything to dry properly before proceeding with primer or anti-fouling. With Impressed Pro degreasing wipes, you can be sure the surface is clean and ready for a new layer.

Step 5: Apply a new layer of the correct thickness

Apply the new coats of paint or anti-fouling. Usually, 2 coats of anti-fouling are sufficient, but with intensive use or saltwater, an extra coat is a good idea. Always observe the drying times specified by the manufacturer. For an extra smooth finish, you can spray the hull instead of rolling it.

Step 6: Regularly check your hull

After the treatment, it’s important to regularly inspect the hull. An annual anti-fouling treatment is usually sufficient. In the meantime, visually check for cracks, blisters, or early signs of rust, so you can tackle problems early.

Besides the hull, the through-hulls are also an important element of the underside of your boat. These are the openings through which pipes, drains, and cooling systems pass. Without proper sealing, water can get in here, and that’s not the intention.

For a proper seal, use sealant that is resistant to prolonged contact with both freshwater and saltwater. At AB Marine Service, we’ve had the best experience with Innotec’s Adheseal Marine.

Choose the right kit for your boat at AB Marine Service

The Adheseal Marine has fast skinning, fast curing, and high flexibility. It contains no solvents, meaning it won’t shrink or crack. It’s also isocyanate-free. It’s available in white, black, and brown.

Adheseal Marine by Innotec can be overpainted with virtually all modern paint and lacquer systems. It has strong adhesion to aluminium, steel, wood, stone, glass, concrete and most plastics. Therefore, it’s also a multi-purpose product.

Keep your hull in top condition for a long time

Giving the hull some attention might not be the most thrilling job, but it’s definitely important. It keeps the foundations of your boat shipshape and ensures you can enjoy many safe and confident trips on the water.

When using Adheseal Marine as a sealant, you’ll also make your hull fittings watertight. If you have any questions about treating your underwater hull or about our sealant, please don’t hesitate to get in touch. Our experts will be happy to help you.

With a boat, there are countless ways water can find its way in. Some rainwater often ends up in the bilge. The solution for dampness and dirt in the bilge is a reliable bilge pump.

The bilge is the lowest part of a ship, where the two sides meet to form the keel. This is where water, oil, mud, and other rubbish can collect. You ideally want to keep this area clean and dry.

The solution for dampness and dirt in the bilge is a reliable bilge pump. At AB Marine Service, you’ll find automatic bilge pumps that do the job themselves as soon as there’s water in the bilge. That way, you don’t have to keep an eye on whether pumping is needed.

What a bilge pump does

The bilge pump has a number of functions. Without a bilge pump, your vessel could become heavier, unstable, or sustain damage. In the worst-case scenario, it could even sink your boat. Naturally, we’d rather avoid that.

Pumping bilge water

The main job of the bilge pump is to pump out water that’s ended up in the bilge. This could be rainwater, or water that’s got in through a leak or spray. That’s why a bilge pump is always fitted at the lowest point of the bilge, because water collects there and can be pumped out efficiently.

Protection from oil and grime

The bilge can accumulate much more than just water. Think of small residues of oil, dirt, or even diesel. A strong pump prevents this muck from building up and potentially causing damage. It’s important, however, to regularly check the pump and hoses for blockages or debris.

How does a bilge pump work?

There’s a range of bilge pumps on the market. The key difference is between manual and automatic models.

Manual bilge pump with switch

With a manual bilge pump, you operate the pump yourself using a switch or a control panel. This allows you to decide when to turn the pump on and off. You’ll need to be the one monitoring whether pumping is actually required, though.

Automatic bilge pump with built-in float switch

When a pump has automatic operation, it has a float switch or built-in float. As the water level rises, the float moves up, and the pump switches on automatically. It then pumps out the bilge water until the level drops below a certain point again.

What do you need to connect a bilge pump?

Connecting a bilge pump is a job most DIYers can manage quite well. The aim is a safe and watertight connection for the pump, with no risk of a short circuit. Make sure you have the following bits and bobs to hand:

• A suitable bilge pump
• A switch or switch panel (12v or 24v)
• Wiring tools
• Sturdy cables
• A fuse
• Hose clamps
• A drain hose
• A battery connection

Connecting a bilge pump: a step-by-step guide/strong>

Right then, time to get that bilge pump wired up. We’ll walk you through it in five straightforward steps. If you’re missing a bit or fancy asking a question, just give our experts a shout.

Step 1: Choose the right spot

Find the location of the bilge pump. You’ll want the pump in the lowest part of the hull, as that’s where all the water will drain. Ensure the pump is securely mounted and easy to install. Allow ample space for the hose and wiring.

Step 2: Connect the hose

Attach the drain hose to the pump. Use one or two hose clamps to create a secure and watertight seal. Route the hose upwards, ensuring the outlet always remains above the waterline. This prevents water from flowing back down the hose.

Step 3: Wiring and Fusing

Connect the pump to the boat’s power supply. Always fit a separate fuse between the pump and the battery to prevent short circuits or overloading. Neatly conceal the wiring and use waterproof connectors or heat-shrink tubing to prevent corrosion.

Step 4: Switch or auto mode

Figure out how you want to run the pump. For manual operation, you’ll connect the pump to a switch or a control panel. If you’re going for an automatic setup, you’ll use a float switch. A lot of bilge pumps give you the option to have both.

Step 5: A thorough test

Run a pre-sail installation test. Pour a controlled amount of water into the bilge and check if the pump activates. Ensure there are no leaks at the connections and that the drainage functions as expected. A test run will prevent unwelcome surprises out on the water.

Practical tips for a reliable bilge pump

For the bilge pump to work reliably, here are a few more tips. We’ve put them in a list for you.

• Consider placing the pump in a holder or fitting a small shelf beside it. This will stop the pump from getting mucky or sitting directly in any loose debris.
• Never install wiring without a fuse. Such a simple fuse can save your entire vessel in the event of a short circuit.
• When selecting a pump, be sure to factor in its capacity. For bigger boats, you’ll likely require a pump with a greater litres-per-hour output.
• Always use a non-return valve. This prevents the pumped-out water from flowing back and refilling your bilge.

Frequently asked questions about bilge pumps

We regularly get the same questions about bilge pumps. Therefore, we’re providing some answers to such questions. If your question isn’t here, please don’t hesitate to get in touch.

My bilge pump keeps running. What now?

If your automatic bilge pump keeps running, then the float switch is sticking. This can be due to wear and tear or the build-up of dirt or oil. If the pump continues to run, clean it and see if that helps. If not, it’s probably time for a new pump.

Where should the drain hose go?

Ensure the drainage hose always exits above the water level. This allows the water to escape freely. We advise against excessive bends in the hose and suggest using hose clips to prevent any leakage.

Does the pump always have to operate automatically?

No, that’s not strictly necessary. Some people prefer manual control to maintain more oversight. Generally, an automatic pump is considered safer, as it will activate even if there’s a leak and you’re not on board.

How do I know if it’s working without water in the bilge?

Ideally, you should test the bilge pump every few weeks when the boat is in the water. Especially if the boat’s been moored for a while or is connected to shore power. Just chucking a bucket of water into the bilge is enough to see if the pump’s still doing its job.

What do you need for big or small motorboats?

For small motorboats, a standard bilge pump will suffice. On bigger boats, you’ll have a deeper bilge and might need a pump with a higher capacity. In that case, it’s sensible to opt for a bigger, more powerful pump.

Buy a bilge pump and more at AB Marine Service

At AB Marine Service, we’ve got everything you need for your boat. Order your automatic bilge pump with built-in sensor, including all the connection materials you’ll need to get started safely on board. Got any questions? Don’t hesitate to get in touch. We’re happy to help.