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Brass is a versatile and popular material in the maritime sector and other industries. It is an alloy of copper and zinc. This unique combination offers numerous advantages such as good electrical conductivity, resistance to corrosion, and an attractive sheen. Over the years, brass has become a favourite for various applications, from decorative items and musical instruments to marine parts, plumbing fittings, and electronic components. However, brass also presents its challenges, especially in damp and salty environments.

Brass corrosion can have serious consequences for the safety and functionality of crucial components, such as skin fittings and seacocks. This blog tells you all about the properties of brass, the causes of corrosion, and how CR brass offers the definitive solution for durable and safe application in damp environments.

How does corrosion occur in brass?

Most metals are subject to corrosion, but in the case of brass, the process of dezincification plays a particularly significant role. Additionally, galvanic corrosion can occur, especially when brass is combined with other metals in a damp environment.

Dezincification: the hidden threat

Dezincification occurs when the zinc content in brass is affected by a chemical reaction with water and oxygen. This process leaves behind a weak, porous material primarily composed of copper. Brass fittings, such as pipes, valves, and skin fittings that are constantly in contact with seawater, are susceptible to this form of corrosion.

• Key factor: The percentage of zinc in the alloy determines how quickly dezincification occurs. The higher the zinc content, the greater the risk.
• Damp environments: In saltwater, dezincification is accelerated, leading to structural weakness in parts that play a crucial role in the safety of your boat. This corrosive effect can be particularly severe below the waterline.

Galvanic corrosion: interaction between metals

Galvanic corrosion occurs when brass comes into contact with dissimilar metals, such as iron, nickel, or aluminium. In combination with seawater, which acts as an electrolyte, an electric current is generated that attacks the less noble metal in the combination.

How to recognise corrosion on your boat parts?

Spotting corrosion early is crucial to prevent damage and dangerous situations. Regular inspection and maintenance can significantly extend the lifespan of your boat parts.

Visual signs

• Discolouration: Brass can develop a green or white deposit due to oxidation. These are early signs of corrosion.
• Pitting: Small indentations on the surface indicate advanced galvanic corrosion and should be taken seriously.
• Loss of shine: Brass that loses its shine has often been exposed to damaging elements, such as salt and moisture.

Functional issues

• Reduced strength: Dezincification makes brass brittle, meaning it can no longer withstand loads.
• Leaks: Check through-hulls and shut-off valves for leaks, as these are often the first signs of corrosion.

By combining visual inspection and functional tests, you can identify problems early and limit damage. If you are using brass, these tests are very important.

CR-brass versus standard brass: what are the differences?

In marine applications, not all brass is created equal. The distinction between standard brass and CR brass (dezincification resistant brass) is of great importance, especially in sub-aquatic applications.

Standard brass

• Composition: Contains a high zinc content, making it more susceptible to dezincification.
• Applications: Standard brass is suitable for applications in less aggressive environments, such as freshwater areas or above the waterline. It is ideal for decorative applications, light loads, or parts that do not have constant exposure to moisture. Additionally, it is a cost-effective choice for situations where maximum durability is not required, such as temporary solutions or less critical components.
• Low hardness: Due to its relatively soft structure, standard brass is less suitable for load bearing.

CR-brass

• Dezincification-free: Due to the use of other alloying elements, such as manganese and a lower zinc component, CR brass is more resistant to corrosion.
• Higher strength: Ideal for applications where durability and safety are crucial, such as through-hulls and brass plates below the waterline.

Choosing the right type of brass is an important factor in ensuring the safety and performance of your boat.

CR-brass: the solution for below-waterline corrosion

For underwater applications, CR-brass is the best choice. This type of brass is designed to perform in the most challenging conditions, where standard brass would quickly fail.

Advantages of CR brass

1. Corrosion resistance: Due to its unique composition, CR brass remains strong and durable, even in saltwater.
2. Long service life: Thanks to its improved dezincification resistance, CR brass components have a significantly longer service life.
3. Reliability: Ideal for critical components such as through-hulls, brass profiles, and valves.

By choosing CR brass, you’re investing in quality and safety. You’ll benefit from this product’s most notable properties: it’s dezincification-free, corrosion-resistant, and therefore reliable.

When to choose standard brass or CR brass?

Choosing between standard brass and CR brass depends on the specific application and the environmental factors the material will be exposed to.

Standard brass

• Dry or freshwater environments: Standard brass is suitable for above-waterline applications or in freshwater areas, where corrosion and dezincification are less likely to occur.
• Cost considerations: For less critical applications, standard brass is a cost-effective option.
• Light load: In situations where mechanical strength and durability are not crucial.

CR-brass

• Damp environments: For applications below the waterline or in other damp conditions, CR-brass offers better protection.
• Mechanical load: Use CR brass in parts where strength and durability are important, such as through-hulls and valves.
• Safety and reliability: For critical components where failure could have serious consequences, such as marine parts.

The importance of proper brass maintenance

Proper maintenance is important to extend the lifespan of brass parts. Here are some practical tips:

1. Regular inspection: Check components such as hull fittings and valves for signs of corrosion.
2. Polishing: Regular polishing, for example with a soft cloth, removes oxidation layers and preserves the aesthetic appeal of the material.
3. Protective coatings: Use coatings to limit exposure to moisture and salt.
4. Preventive replacement: Replace standard brass parts promptly with CR-brass if they are exposed to damp or salty environments.

With proper maintenance, brass remains a reliable and attractive material in a wide range of applications. This ensures you continue to benefit from its unique properties in various uses.

Buying brass from AB Marine Service

At AB Marine Service, we offer a comprehensive range of brass products, from brass rods and tubes to skin fittings and seacocks, available in both standard brass and CR-brass fittings. Our products are designed to withstand harsh conditions and provide a long service life.

With this extensive knowledge of brass and corrosion, you are now better equipped to make the right choices and protect your boat against the challenges of saltwater. Trust in quality, choose the right materials, and maintain your boat with the expertise of AB Marine Service. contact us to learn more about how we can assist you with your marine maintenance projects.

If you regularly sail, you’ll know how important it is to keep your marine engine running smoothly. The V-belt plays a crucial role in this. This seemingly small component is responsible for driving vital systems such as the alternator, water pump, and sometimes even the power steering pump.

A well-functioning V-belt prevents your engine from overheating or systems from failing. But what if your V-belt squeaks or shows visible defects? In this guide, we’ll explain step-by-step how to replace a V-belt, what to look out for, and why AB Marine Service is the place to get your V-belt.

How to recognise wear on a boat engine’s V-belt?

Wear and tear on a V-belt can take various forms. You’ll often notice it as a squeaking sound when starting the engine or when you accelerate. Other signs include:

• Cracks on the outside of the belt.
• Slack or an overly loose belt.
• Reduced dynamo performance, such as a poorly functioning battery.
• Engine overheating more quickly.

In marine environments, where moisture and salt are factors, a V-belt often wears out faster than in a car. It is therefore important to regularly check if the V-belt is functioning correctly and to schedule a replacement in good time.

Differences between a V-belt and a multi-belt on ships

You may have heard of a multi-belt, also called a drive belt. While they look alike, there are important differences:

• A V-belt has a characteristic V-shape, causing it to sit deeply within the pulley grooves. This provides a firm grip and makes the V-belt ideal for driving individual systems, such as the alternator or water pump. V-belts are commonly used in marine engines due to their simplicity and reliability in damp and salty conditions.
• A multi-belt, also known as a poly-V-belt, is wider and designed to drive several components simultaneously, such as the power steering pump, air conditioning compressor, and alternator. A multi-belt is mainly found in more modern engines with a compact design, where multiple components need to be driven at the same time.

How to replace a V-belt?

Replacing a V-belt is not a complicated job, but it does require the right tools, such as a set of spanners or socket wrenches, and a bit of technical know-how. Follow these steps:

Preparation and checks

1. Turn the engine off and allow it to cool down completely.
2. Open the bonnet or inspection hatch and locate the V-belt.
3. Check the condition of the V-belt and note how it is attached across the pulleys. Taking a photograph may be useful.

Removing the old V-belt

4. Loosen the tensioner pulley or adjustable bolt to release the belt tension.
5. Carefully remove the old V-belt. At the same time, check the pulleys for damage.

Refitting the new V-beltr

6. Check that the pulleys are properly aligned. If a pulley is crooked, adjust it before fitting the new V-belt.
7. Fit the new V-belt over the pulleys in the same pattern as the old one. Make sure the belt is properly seated and not twisted.
8. Adjust the tension of the V-belt. It should be firm, but still have a little give (about half a centimetre of play).

Check and testt

8. Briefly turn the engine over to check that the V-belt is working correctly and is not making any unusual noises.
9. Check the belt tension again after a short test period, as the belt may stretch.

How to correctly adjust the V-belt after replacement?

A correctly adjusted V-belt is important. The right tension prevents serious damage to components. Over-tightening can cause engine damage, while a belt that is too loose will squeal or slip. Here are some tips:

• Use a tension gauge if you have one, but pressing down on the belt by hand is also a good method.
• Ensure the pulleys are aligned. Crooked pulleys can damage the belt.
• Regularly check the tension, especially if your engine runs a lot.

How often should you replace a V-belt?

Replacing a V-belt depends on how often your boat is used and under what conditions. With intensive use or exposure to saltwater, it may be necessary to replace the V-belt more often than with a car that mainly drives in a dry environment.

As a rule of thumb, you can expect to replace it after every 500 operating hours or when you see signs of wear and tear.

Where can I buy reliable V-belts for marine engines?

For a high-quality V-belt, AB Marine Service is the place to be. We offer:

• Durable V-belts specifically designed for marine use.
• A wide range, so you’ll always find the right size and profile for your engine.
• Expert advice on replacing and maintaining V-belts.

With our products, you ensure that your marine engine continues to run reliably and smoothly, so you can set sail worry-free. Order your new V-belt from our website today.

Why regular V-belt maintenance is important

A good maintenance schedule prevents unexpected problems. During a routine service, you can check the V-belt and other parts of your marine engine. This includes the timing belt, tensioner pulley, and pulleys. Regular maintenance extends the lifespan of your engine, saves on high costs, and prevents you from breaking down on the water.

Frequently asked questions about V-belts and multi-belts

How do I know if my V-belt needs replacing?

If you hear a squealing noise when starting up or accelerating, or if you see visible cracks, it’s time to replace the V-belt.

Can I replace a V-belt myself?

Yes, with a bit of technical knowledge, a steady hand, and the right tools, you can do this yourself. Just make sure you adjust the tension correctly.

How much does a new V-belt cost?

The price depends on the type of engine and the size of the V-belt. At AB Marine Service, we offer quality options at a competitive price.

Order your new V-belt from AB Marine Service

With this guide, you’ll know exactly how to replace a V-belt and what to look out for. If you have any questions or want to order a V-belt straight away, get in touch with AB Marine Service. We’re ready to help you!

The damper plate is an important part of your boat’s drivetrain. It is located between the flywheel and the reverse gear and dampens unwanted vibrations and shocks for a smoother drive.

When the damper plate becomes worn out, problems can arise such as vibrations, noises, and uneven propulsion. This blog explains why and when you need to replace a damper plate, how to do it, and how to choose the right damper plate for your boat.

Why and when should you replace a damper plate?

When your boat’s damper plate wears out over time, it can cause malfunctions and discomfort. Below, we discuss some common problems that indicate the damper plate needs replacing.

Vibrations and noises in the reversing gear

When you notice your gearbox vibrating slightly or making unusual noises, this can indicate wear on the damper plate. The plastic cams or springs in the damper plate may lose their damping effect, causing vibrations to be transmitted directly to the drivetrain. This can result in extra wear on other parts of your gearbox, such as bearings, the output shaft, and gears.

Problems at low revs

A worn damper plate can cause problems at low revs. This can manifest as an uneven drive or juddering when engaging the gearbox. This is particularly noticeable when manoeuvring the boat in harbour or when mooring, when the engine is running at low revs.

Rattling and banging from the gearbox

If your gearbox clunks when shifting or you hear a rattling noise, it could be a sign that the damper plate is no longer functioning optimally and needs replacing. The splines on the special plate could be worn, preventing the gearbox from engaging smoothly.

Step-by-step guide: Replacing the damper plate

Replacing a damper plate is a job that, with the right preparation, is quite manageable. Below you’ll find out how to tackle it. We’ll start with a list of the tools needed to replace this special plate:

• Socket set
• Torque wrench
• Screwdrivers
• Jack or hoist (to move the engine slightly)
• New damper plate
• Safety glasses and gloves
• Brake cleaner (to clean parts)

Step 1 – Preparation: Ensure the engine is switched off and you have safe access to the gearbox. Remove the cover or hatch to gain good access to the gearbox and flywheel. Check the surroundings for loose parts and ensure you are working on a stable surface.

Step 2 – Detaching the reversing gearbox: Unscrew the bolts that attach the reversing gearbox. Sometimes it’s necessary to lift the engine slightly with a hoist or jack to gain better access to the reversing gearbox. Ensure the reversing gearbox is properly supported so it doesn’t fall unexpectedly.

Step 3 – Removing the old damper plate: The damper plate is located between the flywheel and the reversing gearbox. Unscrew the old plate and note how it is fitted so that you can install the new damper plate in the same way. Check the old damper plate for signs of wear, such as cracks, worn springs, or broken plastic cams.

Step 4 – Fitting the new damper plate: Fit the new damper plate, ensuring the screws are securely tightened. Check that the splines and the triangle on the plate are correctly aligned with the reversing gearbox. It is important to select the correct damper plate with the appropriate diameter and specifications for your engine and reversing gearbox.

Step 5 – Refitting the reversing gearbox: Re-mount the reversing gearbox onto the engine and tighten the bolts to the recommended torque settings. Check that everything is secure and that there is no play. An incorrectly fitted reversing gearbox can cause damage to both the engine and the drive.

Step 6 – Test the engine: Start the engine and listen for vibrations, noises, or any other signs that might indicate incorrect assembly. Run the engine at various speeds, including idling, and engage and disengage the reversing gearbox a few times. If everything operates smoothly, the job is successfully completed!

Choosing the right mounting plate for your boat

Choosing the right mounting plate for your boat If you’ve got a new gearbox or aren’t sure which mounting plate is right for your boat, then choosing the correct one is important. The wrong plate can cause vibrations and lead to premature wear on your gearbox.

Boat Type

Different boats require different damper plates. For instance, an Indenor diesel engine often requires a different plate than a Volvo Penta engine. The load on the engine and gearbox also plays a part in selecting the correct plate.

Gearbox type

The gearbox also influences which damper plate you need. Popular types such as PRM Delta and ZF gearboxes have specific damper plates. Check the description of your gearbox to make the correct choice. The splining and damping of the damper plate must exactly match those of your gearbox.

Dimensions and specifications

Pay attention to the diameter, splining, and springs of the damper plate. These must match the specifications of your engine and gearbox for optimal damping and performance. The wrong damper plate can lead to extra wear and unnecessary costs.

Take your engine’s torque into account!

The torque of your engine, expressed in Newton metres (Nm), indicates how much force the engine produces at a given speed. This is important when choosing the correct damper plate, as it must be able to withstand your engine’s torque. Don’t know the torque? Easily calculate it with our torque calculator.

AB Marine Service damper plates

At AB Marine Service, you’ll find a wide range of damper plates for various gearboxes and engines. Our products are carefully selected and feature clear descriptions and customer ratings. We offer damper plates made from high-quality materials, specifically designed for optimal performance and a long Service life.

With this guide, you can replace your damper plate yourself and ensure your boat functions optimally again. Do you have questions or would you like advice on the correct damper plate? Feel free to contact AB Marine Service. We are happy to help.

Before and after replacing the damper platet

Curious about the difference? In the videos below, you’ll see how the sound quality changes after replacing the damper plate.

Engine oil viscosity is one of the most important properties of engine oil, determining how well the oil flows at different temperatures. The correct viscosity depends on your engine and the conditions in which you are sailing. Oil that is too thick offers too much resistance and can make the engine difficult to start when cold. Oil that is too thin may not provide sufficient lubrication, leading to faster wear of engine parts. By choosing the right viscosity, you ensure a good balance between lubrication, protection, and fuel consumption, tailored to your engine and sailing conditions.

In this blog, we explain everything about engine oil viscosity. This will make it easy for you to choose the best oil for your boat’s engine.

High and low viscosity

Viscosity is often referred to as “high viscosity” or “low viscosity”.

• Low viscosity (thin oil): Flows more easily and is ideal for cold starts and low temperatures. Especially at low temperatures, a thinner oil offers better performance.
• High viscosity (thick oil): Stays in place better at high temperatures and heavy loads, offering extra protection.

The right balance between thickness and fluidity ensures your engine performs optimally in all conditions.

Why the correct viscosity is important

The right engine oil is important for every engine. Consider the following benefits:

• Longer lifespan – Less wear and better protection for crucial components like bearings and cylinder walls.
• Optimal performance – Smooth running at both cold starts and high temperatures.
• Reduced resistance – Less internal friction, leading to lower fuel consumption.
• Improved heat dissipation – Efficient cooling prevents engine overheating.

When choosing engine oil, both the manufacturer’s recommendations and the operating conditions, such as temperature and load, must be taken into account.

How to read the oil viscosity value?

On motor oil packaging, you’ll often find numbers such as 5W30, 10W40, 5W40, 15W40, or even SAE 40. These numbers indicate the oil’s viscosity at different temperatures. This designation was established by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE).

The first number: cold state

The first number (e.g., 5 in 5W30) indicates how well the oil flows at low temperatures. The lower this number, the thinner the oil is when the engine is cold. This helps with rapid lubrication during a cold start. This is particularly important in colder climates, where oil that’s too thick can make the engine difficult to start.eilijk start.

Oil with a lower first number (such as 0W or 5W) remains more fluid in cold conditions and is ideal for engines that need to start smoothly even at low temperatures. Oil with a higher first number (such as 10W or 15W) becomes more viscous more quickly in the cold, making it harder for the engine to start and slowing down oil circulation.

This is especially important in cold climates or if you use your boat in winter. Oil for cold conditions with a lower winter rating (like 0W or 5W) is often the better choice. Do you only use the boat in the summer or in warmer regions? Then a slightly higher rating, such as 10W or 15W, might also be suitable.

The letter W: Winter value

The “W” in the code stands for “Winter” and indicates how the oil performs in cold temperatures. This means the oil has been tested at a specific temperature to see how fluid it remains. The thinner the oil in the cold, the better it flows through the engine and reaches essential parts. Oil that becomes too thick at low temperatures can cause extra wear because it takes longer for all parts to be properly lubricated.

The second number: warm state

The second number in the code, such as the 30 in 5W30, indicates the oil’s viscosity when the engine is warm. The higher this number, the thicker the oil remains at high temperatures. This is important, as during prolonged use or heavy load, the oil thins out, and oil that is too thin can provide insufficient protection for the engine.

An oil with a lower second number (like 30) is thinner at high temperatures and is suitable for engines that are less heavily worked or operate more efficiently at lower viscosity. Oil with a higher second number (like 40 or 50 oil) remains thicker when hot and offers more protection under heavy loads, high revs, or prolonged use.

If, for instance, you frequently undertake long journeys or heavily strain the engine, an oil with a higher hot viscosity rating, such as 10W40 or 15W50, would be a better choice. This oil will remain sufficiently thick to protect components effectively. For lighter engines or less intensive use, an oil like 5W30 is often adequate.

Synthetic or conventional oil for your engine?

When choosing engine oil you have the option between synthetic oil and mineral engine oil.

Synthetic engine oil

Synthetic oil is chemically purified and offers a more stable viscosity. It has advantages such as:

• Improved performance at both low and high temperatures
• Longer service life and less prone to soiling
• Lower resistance and lower fuel consumption
• Improved protection against wear and oxidation
• Improved cleaning action, keeping the engine cleaner

Due to these benefits, synthetic oil is particularly suitable for modern engines, intensive use and heavy loads, such as during long voyages or at high revs.

Mineral engine oil

Mineral oil is refined directly from crude oil and is less refined than synthetic oils. It can become dirty more quickly and offers less protection at extreme temperatures. Mineral oil is generally cheaper but requires more frequent changes.

Due to these benefits, mineral oil is particularly suitable for older engines not designed for synthetic oil, or for engines used in mild climates with less demanding use.

Multigrade vs. monograde oil

With engine oil, a distinction is also made between multigrade and monograd.

• Multigrade oil, such as 10W40, is designed to perform well across a range of temperatures. This makes it the best choice for most modern boat engines, as it adapts to changing weather and engine temperatures.
• Monograde oil, on the other hand, has a constant viscosity and is less flexible with temperature fluctuations. This type of oil is mainly used in classic engines or in applications where the engine always operates at a stable temperature, such as in stationary engines.

For most boats, multigrade oil is the best choice, as it adapts to both cold starts and high loads.

How to choose an oil based on the standard

In a engine’s manual, an oil standard will always be listed, such as VDS-3, ACEA E7, or API CI-4. This standard indicates the requirements the oil must meet regarding protection, temperature behaviour, and cleaning. This is the starting point for choosing an oil: once you know which standard your engine requires, many options will automatically be ruled out. You will then be left with only the oils that are truly suitable for your engine. Following this, you can then consider how the engine is used: short journeys, frequent cold starts, or longer runs under warmer conditions.

A standard, such as VDS-3, indicates the technical requirements that an oil must meet. Therefore, it’s possible to see multiple suitable products for a given standard, even with different viscosities such as 5W-30 and 10W-40. This may seem contradictory, but technically it can be correct: within the same standard, multiple formulations are possible as long as they achieve the specified performance.

In our webshop, you can directly filter by these oil standards. If you enter the standard from your manual, only the oil that technically suits your engine will remain. This makes it easier to make the right choice, especially when you’re unsure between different products or viscosities.

Original brand or alternative: what do you choose?

If an oil meets the standard specified in the manual, you can use either the original brand or an alternative. Some users prefer to use the brand mentioned by the manufacturer because it feels more familiar. Others opt for an oil from a different brand that carries the same standard. As long as that standard matches what the engine requires, the oil will function as intended. The difference usually lies in packaging, price, viscosity, and the additive package. This allows for choice based on what best suits the engine’s use and maintenance.

Which oil is suitable for your boat engine?

Now that you know how to determine the correct standard via the manual and why there are sometimes multiple suitable products within the same standard, you can look further at the engine itself. The type of engine and the way you sail, for instance, influences the viscosity that best suits it. Different engines have different loads, operating temperatures, and environmental conditions. You should adjust the final viscosity accordingly. The choice of the correct engine oil depends on the type of boat engine and the conditions in which you sail.

Outboard motors

Outboard motors work differently to inboard engines, as they cool down faster and often run in varying conditions. For these engines, a thinner oil, such as 10W30, is usually recommended. A thin oil ensures the engine keeps running smoothly and receives the necessary lubrication quickly during a cold start.

Because outboard motors are often used in damp environments, synthetic oil is a good choice. This type of oil stays cleaner for longer, offers better protection against corrosion, and extends the engine’s lifespan.

Inboard engines

Inboard engines operate at higher temperatures and under greater loads than outboard motors. This means that a thicker engine oil, such as 15W40, is often the best choice. A thicker oil forms a stronger lubricating film, which better protects the engine against wear and heat.

For prolonged use or heavy loads, such as with engines that run at high revs on long trips, an oil with a higher viscosity might be even better. This helps prevent excessive wear and ensures the oil doesn’t thin too much at higher temperatures.

Diesel versus petrol engines

Diesel and petrol engines require different types of oil, as their internal workings and operating temperatures differ.

• Diesel engines often require a thicker oil due to higher compression and internal temperatures. A multigrade oil such as 15W40 or 10W40 is usually recommended for these engines. This ensures stable viscosity and good protection against soot formation and wear.
• Petrol engines run at lower compression ratios and can often function perfectly well with a thinner oil, such as 5W30 or 10W30. This aids faster lubrication and more efficient fuel consumption.

Weather conditions

Besides the engine type, weather conditions also play an important role in choosing the right oil.

• In cold temperatures, a low-viscosity oil, such as 5W30, is better suited. This remains fluid at low temperatures and flows more quickly through the engine on a cold start.
• In hot climates or under heavy use, a thicker oil, like 15W40, offers better protection. Thicker oil evaporates less quickly and remains stable for longer at high temperatures.

Choose the right oil at AB Marine Service

At AB Marine Service, we understand how important the right oil is for your boat engine. Our

Looking for the right Oil for your boat? Kroon Oil’s website makes it easy to find the perfect match by searching for your engine type. Once you know which Oil you need, you can order it from us to ensure your engine is always optimally protected. Alternatively, you can contact us for expert advice! We offer solutions for every boat engine, so you can enjoy your time on the water worry-free.

Imagine this: you’re out on your boat on a gloriously sunny day, the water as still as glass. The perfect time for a leisurely cruise. But then you notice a bit of a wobble at lower speeds, a bit of a bounce at higher speeds, and that you’re also guzzling fuel. What a waste!

Take your boating experience to the next level with trim tabs. And not just any trim tabs, but the advanced, automatic systems from the renowned Zipwake brand. We’d love to explain what trim tabs are, what benefits they offer, and why Zipwake’s are particularly interesting.

What are trim tabs and why do you need them?

Trim tabs are also known as trim plates. They are flat plates of metal or plastic that you mount to the underside of the transom (the back of your boat). They improve the trim, which is the angle of the boat relative to the water’s surface.

Thanks to trim tabs, your boat will be more stable, easier to control, ride more smoothly, and consume less fuel. The tabs keep the boat balanced, whether you’re sailing alone, with passengers, or with heavy gear on one side of the boat. They are particularly effective on fast-planing boats like RIBs, centre console boats, or sporty tenders.

Lower fuel consumption

A boat that’s listing or has its bow too high, glides less efficiently through the water. This means more fuel consumption. Properly adjusted trim tabs resolve this problem. Especially at higher speeds or on longer trips with a planing boat, you’ll really see the difference in fuel consumption, particularly with current fuel prices.

More control and stability

A boat quickly loses balance. Trim tabs correct leaning caused by wind, waves, or uneven weight distribution. This makes steering easier and the boat more stable, noticeably improving safety and comfort.

Get on plane quicker

Do you like fast boating? Then it’s ideal to get on plane quicker. The hull comes out of the water, and then the speed suddenly increases significantly. Trim tabs help to get the boat on plane faster. You get up to speed sooner, manoeuvre more easily, and glide smoothly over the water, even with extra passengers on board. Zipwake automatically corrects both pitch (bow up/down) and roll (side-to-side tilt), which provides noticeably more comfort, especially in choppy water.

Smoother ride

Steering boats without trim tabs can sometimes be a choppier, more lurching, and bumpier affair. Especially at lower speeds and in rougher waters, you don’t always feel in complete control. Trim tabs provide smooth lines. This makes long trips a lot more pleasant.

Even load on the engine and parts.

Trim tabs provide the ideal angle between the engine, the boat’s transom, and the water’s surface. Because everything runs smoother, the outboard engine, cylinders, and hull are also less stressed. Everything works well together and lasts longer.

Zipwake versus traditional trim tabs

Anyone who’s sailed with trim tabs before will know you have to adjust them manually. This requires experience: you need to sense when the bow needs to go up or down and what the right angle is for optimal balance. It’s not always straightforward, especially in changing conditions or with heavier loads.

Zipwake takes a different approach. This system uses sensors to measure the boat’s trim in real-time, and automatically adjusts the tabs for you, no input required. This makes the system ideal for both novice and experienced boaters alike.

Electric trim tabsn

The complete Zipwake system uses sensors to constantly monitor the boat’s trim. It automatically adjusts the position of the patented smart tabs to achieve the ideal ride. This means you won’t have to faff about with buttons, nor will you need years of experience to know how to set the smart tabs.

Zipwake makes trimming a doddle, especially if your boat is well-balanced weight-wise. It’s a lifesaver, particularly in changing conditions, such as when moving from a canal to a lake. The system adjusts in a jiffy, keeping the boat perfectly level without you lifting a finger.

Easy assembly

Zipwake’s smart tabs also guarantee easy installation. The Zipwake interceptors mount compactly to the underside of the transom, and they work with vertical slats instead of horizontal plates. The construction is compact, and the wiring is easy to conceal. This means the system is soon up and running.

For handy boat owners, installation is quite doable. Those who prefer to have it installed can also outsource it, but the fitting is fundamentally simpler than with some traditional hydraulic systems.

Sleek control panel

Fancy a manual override after all? That’s also an option. This way, you still have complete control over the system yourself, should you prefer not to rely on the automatic function. With a clear control panel featuring straightforward buttons, you can set everything according to your preferences.

The control panel provides you with key figures and also shows the current status of the patented smart tabs. It’s always good fun to have a play around with the settings yourself. Therefore, a control panel isn’t strictly essential, but opting for the full package might be a nice touch.

Less drag, more speed

Because Zipwake operates faster than traditional tabs, there’s hardly a moment when your boat isn’t perfectly balanced on the water. This means less drag and more efficiency. The electric trim tabs make every boat trip sportier and safer.

Patented smart tabs

Zipwake’s technology is patented. It’s also resistant to saltwater, high pressure, and frequent use. Typically, Zipwake’s systems last significantly longer than the competition’s, especially if you opt for Zipwake’s complete product set.

When to switch to Zipwake?

If you’re looking to have a smoother ride, use less fuel, and love optimising your boat, then Zipwake’s trim tabs are highly recommended. They make a world of difference to all sailing characteristics, especially on more powerful boats or vessels with a heavier hull.

Do you already have experience with trim tabs, but not yet with Zipwake’s? Then a whole new world will open up for you with this automatic system. You no longer must constantly make adjustments yourself and can keep your attention on other things. This brings peace and quiet on board.

Trim tabs: feel free to get in touch with us

Fancy a smoother ride, saving fuel, and getting more enjoyment out of every boat trip? You can easily and quickly order Zipwake’s patented smart tabs from AB Marine Service. Still have questions? Don’t hesitate to get in touch. We’re happy to help you make the right choice.

For many people, a boat is like a second home, but on the water. And just like in your home, you’d rather not be without hot water. Installing a water heater on your boat provides more comfort and is often very practical.

Here’s why an onboard water heater is indispensable for your boat, how one works, and the best way to install it. We’ll also offer advice on choosing the right one for your vessel. Our top recommendations are Webasto boilers.

Why a boat boiler is essential

Most boats come with conveniences like a navigation system, a hob and a small galley. So why wouldn’t you enjoy hot water on board too? We’ve listed eight benefits of having a water heater on board.

Having a nice warm shower

Let’s get a shower started. After a refreshing dip in the morning or a long day sailing in the sun, you’ll want to freshen up. If you’re docked at a marina, you can use the ablutions block. But with a boiler and an onboard shower, you can shower anywhere, just like at home. That’s much nicer than a cold shower.

Wash up with hot water

Even washing up is a doddle with hot water from a boiler. With a small boiler, say 15 or 20 litres, you’ll have enough capacity to get the dishes thoroughly clean. That way, everything stays fresh, even on longer trips.

Washing hands and hygiene

Got some fishing, tinkering or other bits and bobs to do while you’re out and about? You’ll want to give your hands, feet, or face a proper clean up afterwards. And let’s be honest, it’s a lot nicer with hot water than cold.

Doing the laundry and cleaning

Going away for a while and don’t want to have to keep going ashore? With a boiler, you can do small washes or rinse your clothes with warm water. Making soapy water is also a doddle. This way, you can keep the boat, clothes, and much more nice and clean.

Making cooking a lot easier

Making a cuppa or cooking your dinner is also a lot easier when you’ve got hot water on tap. Pop it straight into the pan and your meal will be bubbling away in no time, or you’ll have your tea or coffee brewed in a flash. With a boiler, it’s all as simple as can be, just like in your own kitchen.

Wise use of energy

Many marine boilers work with a heat exchanger linked to the engine’s cooling system. When the engine is running, the water in the boiler warms up by itself. Many models also have an electric element, so you have hot water when you’re stationary and plugged into shore power.

Getting ready for winter is easier

The season’s over and you’re getting the boat ready for winter? Even then, an onboard boiler is a godsend. You’ll have hot water on hand for thoroughly cleaning parts or keeping them frost-free.

Cold water? That’s a thing of the past!

Ultimately, an onboard boiler is an overall upgrade to your onboard comfort. You’ll have all the conveniences and can make guests feel more at home too. With an onboard boiler, you’re increasingly becoming a floating home.

How does an onboard boiler work?

A boiler on a boat works fundamentally the same way as one at home: cold water enters the tank, gets heated, and comes out warm. However, there are a few key differences.

At home, heating is usually done by gas or an electric boiler. On board, this happens via the engine’s cooling water system (heat exchanger) or an electric heating element. When the engine’s running, the heat exchanger automatically heats the water in the boiler. If the boat’s in the harbour, the boiler often switches to electricity.

Depending on the size of your boat, you can opt for a compact boiler of, for example, 15 litres or a larger one of 40 litres or more. You connect the water heater to the boat’s water system, with a cold water supply and an outlet to the tap or shower. Often, a pressure pump or hydrophore is needed to ensure the water flows with sufficient pressure.

Step-by-step plan: Fitting a boiler on your boat

Installing a boiler might sound complicated, but with the right preparation and a bit of know-how, it’s perfectly manageable. Just bear in mind that the process can vary from boat to boat. For instance, you’ll need to consider the space in the locker and the diameter of the hoses.

The necessary materials

For installing a boiler on your boat, you’ll need a few things. The following bits and bobs will come in handy:

• A suitable boiler
• Hoses and clamps
• Assembly tools

Step 1: Buy a suitable boiler

It starts with purchasing the right boiler. We recommend Webasto boilers. These boilers are suitable for onboard use and available with a capacity of 15 litres up to 75 litres.

Bear in mind the available space and the weight of the boiler. Assume a fully water-filled boiler. An overly heavy boiler could unbalance your boat.

Step 2: Find the right spot

Keep heat loss to a minimum by keeping the hoses between the engine and the boiler as short as possible. Also, prevent the cooling water circuit from being higher than the expansion vessel of the engine cooling system.

If that’s not possible, equip the cooling water hoses with a bleed nipple at the highest point. Install boilers with the drain tap at the bottom so the contents can be drained.

Step 3: Use the right hoses

Use a high-temperature, high-pressure, coolant-resistant water hose. Use robust, non-toxic hoses for the water hose. Clamp all hoses with stainless steel hose clips.

When it’s all hooked up:

• Fill the boiler with water.
• Let the pump run until water comes out of all the taps.
• Also bleed the hot water side, to prevent air bubbles in the system.
• Check if hot water is available when the engine is running or when shore power is connected.

Choose the right boat boiler at AB Marine Service

Not every boiler is right for every boat. So, it’s crucial to pick the correct one, especially considering the space you’ve got and what you’ll be using it for.

We recommend opting for a Webasto boiler from the Isotemp range. These boilers have been specifically designed for use on boats, ships, and yachts. At AB Marine Service, we supply these high-quality boilers directly from stock.

A durable design with stainless steel

Webasto boilers are made from stainless steel. This makes them ideally suited for operating on water. They last for years, without the tank becoming porous or leaking. Furthermore, they are easy to keep clean.

Compact dimensions

Webasto knows that onboard space is often at a premium. That’s why their boilers are compact. Every centimetre counts. You can often fit a compact Webasto water heater into a locker or under a seat without having to move other equipment.

A powerful heating element

The Webasto boilers cleverly utilise a heat exchanger. When the engine is running, you’ll have hot water in no time. Even when you’re plugged into shore power, the boiler can still provide hot water. This means you’ll practically never be without hot water.

Installing a Boiler? Let AB Marine Service be your partner

Installing a boiler on a boat requires a bit of preparation and know-how. If you’re a bit handy, take on the challenge and bring more comfort and convenience to your second home on the water.

Unsure which boiler would be best for your needs? Or perhaps you’ve got some questions about getting it fitted? Don’t hesitate to get in touch. We’ll gladly help you find the perfect water heater and can offer tips based on your boat’s specific details.

If you own a boat, you’ll know that maintenance never stops. One important part not to overlook here is treating the underwater hull. This part of your boat really takes a battering.

The underwater hull is always in contact with the water, be it fresh or salt. Without treatment, problems like osmosis, corrosion, or stubborn growth of algae, mussels, and more lurk. We’ll explain how to prevent that.

No boat can do without a proper underwater hull

The underwater hull is, in a sense, the foundation of your boat. We’re talking about the part of the hull that sits below the waterline. This makes it susceptible to damage. Think, for example, of micro-organisms attaching themselves to the coating, or corrosion if metal is exposed.

With a polyester hull, you can get blisters and moisture ingress in the gelcoat. This is better known as osmosis. With a steel vessel, rust formation and electrolysis are the culprits. Solutions include a robust paint system and good anti-fouling.

Why it’s important to look after your boat’s hull

If you’re not yet convinced why it’s so important to keep your boat’s hull in good condition, we’re happy to outline a few reasons. Proper treatment extends its lifespan. Without treatment, problems lurk.

Anti-fouling

If your boat’s in still or slow-moving water, you might find it gets covered in mussels, algae, and other sea life. Sometimes, this can even slow you down. A fresh coat of self-polishing anti-fouling could be the answer.

Protection against osmosis and blisters

With polyester boats, osmosis is also a potential problem. water penetrates the gelcoat and causes blisters which can eventually affect the ship’s structure. Prevent osmosis from developing by, for example, applying a protective coating.

Corrosion and rust protection

Rust is a constant worry on a steel yacht or any other metal boat. If left untreated, metal will eventually go, well, rusty. A fresh coat of paint or some epoxy will keep rust at bay and mean you get more joy out of your hull for longer.

Less fuel consumption

When your hull is spick and span, it automatically means less drag in the water. This allows you to reach higher speeds and use less fuel. When anti-fouling is applied correctly, this also saves you money.

Safety and reliability

If your hull has been compromised by osmosis, corrosion, or some other issue, it could put your safety at risk down the line. Regular attention to your underwater hull will ensure you can keep on sailing with complete peace of mind.

Keeping the value of your boat

A boat with an untidy hull loses value. A well-maintained boat without damage or scratches is more appealing to potential buyers. Therefore, keeping your hull in good condition is good for your boat’s value.

Hull maintenance plan

Tackling your boat’s hull yourself might sound like a bit of a chore. However, if you’re a handy sort of chap, with the right approach and a bit of time, you can get quite far.

Step 1: Jet wash and clean the boat

Take the boat out of the water using a boat lift and spray the hull clean with a high-pressure washer. Start at the waterline and work your way down. Remove algae, mussels, and other growth. For stubborn dirt, you can use a polyester or plastic cleaner.

Step 2: Inspect and check the hull

Carefully examine the hull. For fibreglass, check for bumps or blisters (osmosis), and for steel hulls, look for rust and corrosion. Also, inspect areas where the anti-fouling has worn off or is no longer adhering properly. Is the layer worn out? If so, use an anti-fouling remover to safely strip the old paint.

Step 3: Repair and fill minor damage

Right, if you spot any damage or rough patches, you’ll want to sort those out first. Fill any cracks and holes with an epoxy filler suitable for boats. Let that dry thoroughly, then sand the surface smooth again. That way, you’ll have a solid base layer.

Step 4: Degrease and dry the hull

Thoroughly degrease the hull and ensure it’s dust-free. This is crucial for the adhesion of new coats. Allow everything to dry properly before proceeding with primer or anti-fouling. With Impressed Pro degreasing wipes, you can be sure the surface is clean and ready for a new layer.

Step 5: Apply a new layer of the correct thickness

Apply the new coats of paint or anti-fouling. Usually, 2 coats of anti-fouling are sufficient, but with intensive use or saltwater, an extra coat is a good idea. Always observe the drying times specified by the manufacturer. For an extra smooth finish, you can spray the hull instead of rolling it.

Step 6: Regularly check your hull

After the treatment, it’s important to regularly inspect the hull. An annual anti-fouling treatment is usually sufficient. In the meantime, visually check for cracks, blisters, or early signs of rust, so you can tackle problems early.

Besides the hull, the through-hulls are also an important element of the underside of your boat. These are the openings through which pipes, drains, and cooling systems pass. Without proper sealing, water can get in here, and that’s not the intention.

For a proper seal, use sealant that is resistant to prolonged contact with both freshwater and saltwater. At AB Marine Service, we’ve had the best experience with Innotec’s Adheseal Marine.

Choose the right kit for your boat at AB Marine Service

The Adheseal Marine has fast skinning, fast curing, and high flexibility. It contains no solvents, meaning it won’t shrink or crack. It’s also isocyanate-free. It’s available in white, black, and brown.

Adheseal Marine by Innotec can be overpainted with virtually all modern paint and lacquer systems. It has strong adhesion to aluminium, steel, wood, stone, glass, concrete and most plastics. Therefore, it’s also a multi-purpose product.

Keep your hull in top condition for a long time

Giving the hull some attention might not be the most thrilling job, but it’s definitely important. It keeps the foundations of your boat shipshape and ensures you can enjoy many safe and confident trips on the water.

When using Adheseal Marine as a sealant, you’ll also make your hull fittings watertight. If you have any questions about treating your underwater hull or about our sealant, please don’t hesitate to get in touch. Our experts will be happy to help you.

With a boat, there are countless ways water can find its way in. Some rainwater often ends up in the bilge. The solution for dampness and dirt in the bilge is a reliable bilge pump.

The bilge is the lowest part of a ship, where the two sides meet to form the keel. This is where water, oil, mud, and other rubbish can collect. You ideally want to keep this area clean and dry.

The solution for dampness and dirt in the bilge is a reliable bilge pump. At AB Marine Service, you’ll find automatic bilge pumps that do the job themselves as soon as there’s water in the bilge. That way, you don’t have to keep an eye on whether pumping is needed.

What a bilge pump does

The bilge pump has a number of functions. Without a bilge pump, your vessel could become heavier, unstable, or sustain damage. In the worst-case scenario, it could even sink your boat. Naturally, we’d rather avoid that.

Pumping bilge water

The main job of the bilge pump is to pump out water that’s ended up in the bilge. This could be rainwater, or water that’s got in through a leak or spray. That’s why a bilge pump is always fitted at the lowest point of the bilge, because water collects there and can be pumped out efficiently.

Protection from oil and grime

The bilge can accumulate much more than just water. Think of small residues of oil, dirt, or even diesel. A strong pump prevents this muck from building up and potentially causing damage. It’s important, however, to regularly check the pump and hoses for blockages or debris.

How does a bilge pump work?

There’s a range of bilge pumps on the market. The key difference is between manual and automatic models.

Manual bilge pump with switch

With a manual bilge pump, you operate the pump yourself using a switch or a control panel. This allows you to decide when to turn the pump on and off. You’ll need to be the one monitoring whether pumping is actually required, though.

Automatic bilge pump with built-in float switch

When a pump has automatic operation, it has a float switch or built-in float. As the water level rises, the float moves up, and the pump switches on automatically. It then pumps out the bilge water until the level drops below a certain point again.

What do you need to connect a bilge pump?

Connecting a bilge pump is a job most DIYers can manage quite well. The aim is a safe and watertight connection for the pump, with no risk of a short circuit. Make sure you have the following bits and bobs to hand:

• A suitable bilge pump
• A switch or switch panel (12v or 24v)
• Wiring tools
• Sturdy cables
• A fuse
• Hose clamps
• A drain hose
• A battery connection

Connecting a bilge pump: a step-by-step guide/strong>

Right then, time to get that bilge pump wired up. We’ll walk you through it in five straightforward steps. If you’re missing a bit or fancy asking a question, just give our experts a shout.

Step 1: Choose the right spot

Find the location of the bilge pump. You’ll want the pump in the lowest part of the hull, as that’s where all the water will drain. Ensure the pump is securely mounted and easy to install. Allow ample space for the hose and wiring.

Step 2: Connect the hose

Attach the drain hose to the pump. Use one or two hose clamps to create a secure and watertight seal. Route the hose upwards, ensuring the outlet always remains above the waterline. This prevents water from flowing back down the hose.

Step 3: Wiring and Fusing

Connect the pump to the boat’s power supply. Always fit a separate fuse between the pump and the battery to prevent short circuits or overloading. Neatly conceal the wiring and use waterproof connectors or heat-shrink tubing to prevent corrosion.

Step 4: Switch or auto mode

Figure out how you want to run the pump. For manual operation, you’ll connect the pump to a switch or a control panel. If you’re going for an automatic setup, you’ll use a float switch. A lot of bilge pumps give you the option to have both.

Step 5: A thorough test

Run a pre-sail installation test. Pour a controlled amount of water into the bilge and check if the pump activates. Ensure there are no leaks at the connections and that the drainage functions as expected. A test run will prevent unwelcome surprises out on the water.

Practical tips for a reliable bilge pump

For the bilge pump to work reliably, here are a few more tips. We’ve put them in a list for you.

• Consider placing the pump in a holder or fitting a small shelf beside it. This will stop the pump from getting mucky or sitting directly in any loose debris.
• Never install wiring without a fuse. Such a simple fuse can save your entire vessel in the event of a short circuit.
• When selecting a pump, be sure to factor in its capacity. For bigger boats, you’ll likely require a pump with a greater litres-per-hour output.
• Always use a non-return valve. This prevents the pumped-out water from flowing back and refilling your bilge.

Frequently asked questions about bilge pumps

We regularly get the same questions about bilge pumps. Therefore, we’re providing some answers to such questions. If your question isn’t here, please don’t hesitate to get in touch.

My bilge pump keeps running. What now?

If your automatic bilge pump keeps running, then the float switch is sticking. This can be due to wear and tear or the build-up of dirt or oil. If the pump continues to run, clean it and see if that helps. If not, it’s probably time for a new pump.

Where should the drain hose go?

Ensure the drainage hose always exits above the water level. This allows the water to escape freely. We advise against excessive bends in the hose and suggest using hose clips to prevent any leakage.

Does the pump always have to operate automatically?

No, that’s not strictly necessary. Some people prefer manual control to maintain more oversight. Generally, an automatic pump is considered safer, as it will activate even if there’s a leak and you’re not on board.

How do I know if it’s working without water in the bilge?

Ideally, you should test the bilge pump every few weeks when the boat is in the water. Especially if the boat’s been moored for a while or is connected to shore power. Just chucking a bucket of water into the bilge is enough to see if the pump’s still doing its job.

What do you need for big or small motorboats?

For small motorboats, a standard bilge pump will suffice. On bigger boats, you’ll have a deeper bilge and might need a pump with a higher capacity. In that case, it’s sensible to opt for a bigger, more powerful pump.

Buy a bilge pump and more at AB Marine Service

At AB Marine Service, we’ve got everything you need for your boat. Order your automatic bilge pump with built-in sensor, including all the connection materials you’ll need to get started safely on board. Got any questions? Don’t hesitate to get in touch. We’re happy to help.

Failures in your engine, collision with a sandbank, a fuel leak… these and other issues cause major problems while sailing and are the nightmare for many a skipper. You can prepare as well as you can, but it is obviously difficult to arm yourself against the unexpected. Do you have quite a bit of technical knowledge and also the necessary tools with you? Heartwarming! But that does not mean you can actually face all issues.

Prevention is hard, cure is not! That’s why you would be very wise to join our partner Vaarzeker to take out a subscription, which ensures you always get the best assistance!

Even if you are not a member, these counsellors may be able to support you. They are just a phone call away from you! Call +31 85 3038253 if you could use some assistance right now. Please note that if you are not a member, you cannot take advantage of free help and there is a good chance you will have to wait longer. Members of Vaarzeker always have priority!

Safety above all

A breakdown is very annoying, but potentially even dangerous! Before calling in Vaarzeker or any other assistance service, it is vital that you are safe yourself first. Especially in case of a fire, leak or power failure. As long as your fellow sailors and you are not at risk, you can plug a leak, put out a fire or switch off the power. In doing so, never expose yourself or others to unnecessary danger, ensure your safety above everything else and call in experts whenever possible!

Subscriptions

As is the case with many services, you are also in a position to decide how much you pay and thus what exactly your options are. That is, you only get assistance with the most important and common problems when you choose the cheapest subscription. With standard or even complete assistance, that package is of course increasingly magnified so that you are carefree on the water! On top of that, the latter two subscriptions offer a 10% discount to boaters who choose to pay per year instead of per month. The three modules are:

Breakdown Assistance
This module includes:

• Call-out charges
• On-board assistance
• Starting aid for battery problems
• Throughout the Netherlands except home port

As long as you are ashore, you can count on the most comprehensive assistance from experienced mechanics thanks to Breakdown Assistance. They do their utmost to get you out on the water the same day. Do you also want technical support while on open water? Then read on quickly!

Assistance Standard
If a technical failure occurs while you are on small inland waterways, your vessel will be towed to a safe port. The Wadden Islands are excluded.

This module includes:

• Call-out
• Towing off
• Telephone assistance for technical questions
• Telephone nautical advice

For a small extra fee, the Breakdown Assistance module is included in this. It is then offered at a 10% discount. Moreover, Assistance Standard is offered throughout the Netherlands, including your home port.

Assistance Complete
Whatever water you find yourself on, you will benefit from a comprehensive assistance package

This module includes:

• Call-out
• Towing off
• Telephone assistance for technical questions
• Telephone nautical advice
• Floating after jamming
• Supply of spare parts
• Fuel delivery
• Towing from port to port
• Removal of objects from propeller

As with Assistance Standard, you can add Breakdown Assistance to this package: in this case, you get a discount of up to 15% on it! Assistance Complete can be used throughout the Netherlands, including your home port.

Carefree boating

When you go out on the water for fun, you always want to be able to count on experts to help you. Got a problem on board? Then you know who you can count on! After making just one phone call, Vaarzeker’s professionals will come to you to solve your problem. Depending on the situation, you can simply sail on to your final destination the same day. Give yourself that peace of mind, become a member and sail for sure.

To function, your ship’s propeller shaft runs from inside to outside, through the hull. Of course, this component is built and installed so that your vessel does not fill up with water, but still, your water-lubricated propeller shaft may leak. Naturally, this is a dangerous situation that you want to prevent or remedy as soon as possible. But how does this arise and how do you fix such a problem? Read on to find out why your water-lubricated propeller shaft is leaking and what to do about it.

Water-lubricated propeller shaft leaks: the cause

There is a difference between a grease-lubricated and a water-lubricated propeller shaft seal. Variants from the first category are easy and low-cost to maintain, but grease replacement is difficult. Moreover, some of this ends up in surface water, which is not environmentally friendly.

A grease-lubricated propeller shaft seal is easily converted to a water-lubricated one. You don’t have to constantly lubricate the grease pot and it is much less polluting anyway. But sand grains are capable of causing considerable wear to the sealing rings. And that, in turn, is the basis for a leak!

Furthermore, your engine may be set up a little too flexibly, meaning the packing rings are not sufficiently able to follow the propeller shaft movements. In addition, a leak may be due to stuffing boxes that seal radially and do not adjust to propeller shaft misalignment. Finally, it is possible that the axle itself may wear out and thus let in water.

Water-lubricated propeller shaft leaks: the solution

The bearings of a water-lubricated propeller shaft installation are made of rubber. These may need to be replaced once in a while to prevent or fix leaks, if you already suffer from leaks.

Do you often sail in waters known to be shallow or sandy for other reasons? Then it’s better to switch to a grease-lubricated propeller shaft. Indeed, as we explained above, that sand is going to affect your seal much faster than you would like. You are much less likely to suffer from that with a grease-lubricated system. The downside is that this requires much more maintenance. That is much less the case with a water-lubricated propeller shaft. But periodically checking that all components are still in full working order can never hurt.

Questions?

That comes in handy, because we have answers! Now if you have a problem with your water-lubricated propeller shaft that is not mentioned here, feel free to contact us . Explain the problem to us so that we can provide you with a suitable solution. Besides just a method, we also have the best parts for you, such as a complete propeller shaft seal, a coupling and a grease cord.. You can easily install these yourself. At AB Marine Service, you can only assume the very highest quality, because we do offer it!