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You’re ready to leave the harbour, give a command to the bow thruster, and nothing happens. Or you hear a click, but the propeller doesn’t spin. For boaters, this is a frustrating situation, especially if you need the bow thruster to moor alongside a busy pontoon or in a tricky current.

Most bow thruster problems are electrical in nature. In many cases, you can trace the cause yourself and fix the problem with a simple part. Regular maintenance of the connections and wiring already prevents most failures. In this article, we will go through the most common causes step by step, tell you what you can safely do yourself, and when it is better to call in an expert.

Cause	Self-done?	What you check
Flat battery	Yes	Measure voltage under load
Blown fuse	Yes	Replace with the same amperage rating
Faulty relay	Sometimes	Clicking sound when testing
Seized propeller	Yes	Check for fouling or lines
Defective electric motor	No	Get a mechanic to check this

First, rule out: power, controls, and safety

Before you start tinkering, it’s worth quickly ruling out the basics, for example by briefly switching the bow thruster off and on again, or resetting it. Many bow thruster problems stem from the power supply or a simple interruption in the controls. A quick inspection of the connections and controls will only take a few minutes and prevent you from checking unnecessarily more complex components.

Quick checklist:

•   Main switch: is it on? A tripped main switch is a more common cause than you might think.

•   Battery voltage: measure the voltage at rest (12V system: minimum 12.4V). If the voltage drops below 10V under load as soon as you operate the bow thruster, there is a voltage drop and the battery is not supplying enough current.

•  Cables and connections: visually inspect connections on the battery to ensure they are secure and free from corrosion (white or green powder) on the terminals. Moisture in the connections increases resistance and can cause faults. If you have any doubts about your boat’s electrics in general, then also read Connecting boat electrics.

•   Fuse or circuit breaker: follow the thick cables from the battery to the bow thruster, as the main fuse is often hidden around a corner or behind a panel.

•   Controls and switch: does the bow thruster work from another control position (wheelhouse vs. aft deck)? If so, the problem lies with the control panel or the wiring for that specific switch. If your control panel has a display or light, check if it’s showing any error codes.

Safety first: always work with the power off where possible. Do not place tools on the battery terminals and stop immediately if you feel cables getting hot or smell burning. These are signs of overload or short circuit that you should not attempt to fix yourself.

The most common causes and what you can do yourself

Many bow thrusters indicate a fault via the control panel, for example with a flashing light or an error code. If you recognise such a signal, first look up what it means in the manual for your brand before investigating the cause further.

Have you ruled out the basics and the bow thruster still isn’t responding? Then it’s time to systematically check the most common causes. For each cause, you’ll find: the symptom, a quick test, what you can do yourself, and when to stop.

1. Weak or flat battery

A bow thruster that no longer responds is most often caused by a battery that is too weak and drops voltage under load. Symptom: the bow thruster reacts slowly, switches off after a few operations, or you hear a rapidly repeated clicking from the relay. This latter signal indicates a voltage drop due to heavy load: a bow thruster quickly draws 200 to 400 amperes when in use. If the battery has insufficient capacity or is internally damaged, the voltage drops under that load, the relay disengages and re-engages.

Quick test: measure the battery voltage while operating the bow thruster. If the voltage in a 12V system drops below 10V, the battery is too weak for this load.

•   What you can do yourself: clean and securely tighten the battery terminals, fully charge the battery and measure again.

•   When to stop: if the voltage drops significantly even after charging, the battery is at the end of its service life and needs replacing.

2. Blown fuse

Symptom: no response at all, no click, nothing. The power is interrupted before the relay and the bow thruster is not switched.

Quick test: follow the thick cables from the battery and look for the main fuse. If it’s a fuse link cartridge, you’ll immediately see if the link is broken.

•   What you can do yourself: replace the fuse with one of the same rating. Never use a higher rating, as the fuse protects the wiring and the system from overload.

•   When to stop: if the new fuse blows immediately again, there is an underlying problem (short circuit, jammed motor). Then find the cause first.

3. Faulty relay or contactor

Symptom: you hear a click when operating, but the bow thruster does not turn. Or you hear nothing at all, while the battery and fuse are fine. The relay is the switching component that switches the main current to the bow thruster motor via a small control current. As soon as the relay is faulty, the motor connections are no longer switched and the bow thruster remains stuck at nothing.

Quick test: check if the connections on the relay are firmly secured and properly connected. Look for any visible burning or melted spots on the contacts. A relay that clicks but doesn’t drive the motor is almost always in need of replacement.

•   What you can do yourself: replacing the relay. Note before ordering: the operating voltage (12V or 24V), the maximum current rating on the type plate, and take a photo of the connections.

•   When to stop: if you are unsure about the wiring diagram or if there are multiple relays in the system that you do not recognise.

4. Seized or damaged propeller

Symptom: you hear a humming or buzzing sound, vibrations are felt, but the propeller isn’t turning. Or the fuse blows immediately when you operate the bow thruster. This indicates a mechanical blockage: the propeller is seized and cannot transmit movement.

Quick check: visually inspect the bow thruster tunnel for any rope, plastic, or other debris caught in the propeller.

•   What you can do yourself: remove the blockage, but only if you can safely access the tunnel and the bow thruster has been de-energised. Do not attempt to manually force the propeller in any direction.

•   When to stop: if you cannot see anything but the problem persists, or if you suspect wear or damage to the propeller blades.

5. Faulty electric motor

Symptom: no response at all (no clicking either), the electric motor gets hot during operation, there is smoke or a burning smell, or the fuse repeatedly blows after replacement.

A common internal cause with older bow thrusters is worn-out carbon brushes. Carbon brushes are the wear parts in the electric motor that make electrical contact with the commutator. If carbon brushes are too worn or stick in their holder, the motor loses proper contact and stops running. Regular inspection of the carbon brushes prevents unexpected failures: check if they move freely in the brush holder and if the minimum length stated in the manual has not yet been reached. Always replace carbon brushes as a complete set.

Other causes of an electric motor failure include moisture in the motor housing (due to a damaged seal or rust in the bow thruster tunnel) and wear from years of intensive use and a worn-out zinc anode, which no longer protects against galvanic corrosion of metal parts in the tunnel. The lifespan of an electric motor is highly dependent on the vessel’s maintenance and usage under heavy loads.

When replacing it yourself makes sense and when it’s better to call in help

Most bow thruster problems can be solved with a small part: a new fuse, a clean battery terminal, or a replaced relay. As skipper, you can easily carry out these three steps yourself, provided you work calmly and de-energise the circuit. Wear-related parts such as carbon brushes require a little more knowledge, but can also be changed yourself with the right manual.

Call in a mechanic if:

•   A new fuse blows again immediately, even after removing a mechanical blockage.

•   Rust or moisture is visible in the bow thruster tunnel or on the motor housing, which may indicate structural wear affecting the system’s lifespan.

•   Your melted cable insulation is visible or you smell a burning odour that you cannot explain.

•   You do not recognise the wiring or cannot trace the wiring diagram of the relay.

•   The electric motor gets hot without turning, which could indicate an internal short circuit (motor short).

How to order the correct part without errors:

•   Note the voltage of your bow thruster system: 12V or 24V.

•   Locate the nameplate on the bow thruster or relay and note the model number and maximum current rating.

•   Take photographs of the connections before unscrewing anything.

•   Unsure? WhatsApp the photo and model number to AB Marine for advice.

Frequently asked questions

Why is my bow thruster only clicking?
This usually indicates a battery that’s too weak or a poor connection at the fuse. First, measure the voltage under load.

Can I replace a fuse myself?
Yes, as long as you use a fuse with the same amperage rating as the old one.

When should I call out a repairman directly?
If the engine won’t turn over at all, or if you smell burning or see sparks.

Browse the full range of bow thruster parts in the bow thruster parts category at ab-marineservice.com, from relays and contactors to fuses, battery isolators, and cable accessories. Unsure which part you need? We’re happy to help you via WhatsApp or email.

You select forward gear, the engine revs climb, but the boat barely moves. Or you hear a rattling from the engine bay that wasn’t there last season. Replacing a reverse gear costs between €350 and €1,950 for parts, but in many cases, the coupling itself isn’t the problem.

In this blog, you’ll read which symptoms belong to which type of gearbox, which three things you should rule out first, and what the costs precisely consist of. This way, you’ll know whether to order a new one or check something simpler first.

What does a reverse gear do on a boat?

You use it every time you moor, without giving it a second thought. A reverse gearbox is the transmission between your engine and the propeller shaft that reverses the direction of rotation, can stop the propeller, and reduces engine speed by a fixed ratio.

Many boat owners are unaware of this last function. The rating plate will show a ratio such as 2:1 or 2.47:1, and this figure determines how many times slower the propeller shaft rotates than the engine. When replacing it, this ratio must be correct, otherwise the gearbox will not match your propeller.

For diagnosis, the type is especially important:

• Mechanical reverse gear. The main shaft and auxiliary shaft are continuously connected via gears, reverse is via an extra gear. There is a small amount of oil in it which must be kept clean.

• Hydraulic reverse gear. A plate clutch is pressed by oil pressure, operated via pistons. Here the oil does the work, so oil pressure and oil level are critical.

The type you have determines what complaints you get with wear. That makes the distinction the quickest diagnostic tool you have.

Reverse gear problems: broken or is it something else?

You hear or feel something, but you don’t know if it’s serious. The symptoms of a worn reverse gear differ by type, and it’s precisely those differences that tell you where to look.

Symptoms of a mechanical gearbox

• Rattling from the engine bay. A rattling noise at idle or when engaging a gear indicates play in the gears or wear of the rotating parts.

• Judder from the gearbox itself. A high, constant tone that follows the engine speed usually comes from the bearing.

• Heavy or jerky gear changes. If the lever feels heavy, first check the cable, as this is a more common cause than the gearbox.

• Cannot engage. If forward or reverse has completely disappeared, something has broken internally and continuing to sail is pointless.

Symptoms of a hydraulic gearbox

• Slip. The engine speed rises, but the boat does not accelerate. With a hydraulic gearbox, this almost always means insufficient oil pressure or worn clutch plates.

• Fewer knots at the same engine speed. If last season you were achieving 6 knots at 1800 rpm and now it’s 5, then the clutch is slipping under load.

• Delayed engagement. A noticeable pause between lever and movement indicates oil pressure building up too slowly.

Why is my gearbox rattling?

Chattering and rattling often don’t come from the reverse gearbox itself. Between the flywheel and the reverser gearbox is the damper plate, a plate with springs or plastic pads that absorbs engine shocks. If these springs or pads wear out, the vibrations enter the drivetrain undamped, and you’ll hear this as rattling at low revs or a clatter when shifting.

Because the damper plate is attached to the reverser gearbox, the noise seems to come from there. If you recognise this pattern, first read how to replace your boat’s damper plate before considering a new gearbox.

Carry out these checks before ordering a new clutch

You’ve recognised the symptoms and are thinking about replacement. However, there are four points that are more often the cause than the reverser gearbox itself, and you can check them all in an hour.

• Oil level and oil type. A reverser gearbox that runs dry wears out quickly and overheats. Too much oil is just as bad, as it builds up pressure. Check which oil your model requires in the manual, as mechanical and hydraulic clutches don’t ask for the same thing.

• The condition of the oil. Does the oil smell burnt, or do you see metal particles on the dipstick? Metal particles mean something is already wearing down internally, and fresh oil won’t be a solution anymore.

• Cable, operation and adjustment. In many cases, stiff gear changes are due to a seized or incorrectly adjusted gear change cable, not the clutch. Feel if the lever moves without resistance when you disconnect the cable at the clutch.

• Engine mounts and alignment. Sagging engine mounts pull the drivetrain out of alignment, putting sideways stress on the gearbox bearings. Therefore, check the alignment of your propeller shaft as well.

There is another cause that is not a defect but a habit. Accelerating before engaging the clutch, or shifting directly into reverse from full speed, puts heavy strain on the plates and gears. Engaging the clutch first and then accelerating extends the lifespan of every gearbox.

If these points are satisfactory and the complaints persist, you’ll be looking at a rebuild or replacement.

Service or replacement: when do you choose which?

The size of your gearbox often determines half the answer. With a small, light gearbox, refurbishment is rarely worthwhile: dismantling, measuring, cleaning, and rebuilding it takes just as many hours as with a heavy gearbox, while a complete used or new unit is relatively inexpensive. The labour costs quickly exceed the price of a replacement gearbox.

Replacement is the logical choice in cases of internal damage, recurring faults, and when you need to get back on the water quickly mid-season.

How much does it cost to replace a reverse gear?

You want to know where you stand before you let someone take a look. The gearbox itself is the biggest item: used reverse gearboxes range from approximately €350 for a small mechanical Technodrive TMC40 to approximately €1,950 for a heavier ZF25 or a Kanzaki KM4a. The majority of the offerings are between €450 and €750.

What determines the price within that range:

• Type and format. A Hurth HBW50 for a 20 hp engine costs €450, a ZF25 for a considerably larger engine €1,950. Hydraulic gearboxes are structurally more expensive than mechanical ones.

• The ratio. The reduction must match your propeller. A 2:1 is readily available, a different ratio like 2.63:1 limits your choice and thus your price advantage.

• New or used. A new gearbox from Technodrive or PRM costs more than a used one from stock, but you get something back for it: a warranty, a known history, and parts that will remain available for years to come. If you sail a lot, the boat is your home or your work, or you simply want to have no worries for years to come, then new is the most peaceful choice.

In addition to the gearbox, these costs will be added:

• Removal and installation. The gearbox needs to be supported and sometimes the engine has to be lifted slightly. In a cramped engine room, this accounts for the majority of the labour time.

• Blanking plate. Include that straight away, because you’re there anyway and a worn plate will ruin your new gearbox.

• Oil and seals. Fresh oil of the correct type should be part of a replacement as standard.

• Alignment after reinstallation. The flanges must be realigned parallel; otherwise, you will immediately put new stress on the new coupling.

Order your parts from us, and we’ll ship for €6.95 within the Netherlands, and for free on orders over €125. New items come with a two-year warranty.

Do the job off-season if you can. In the spring, workshops are full, and you’ll be waiting longer than in november.

Which gearbox is right for your boat?

Replacing a gearbox starts with the nameplate and not the webshop: without make, type, and ratio, you cannot determine which gearbox fits. Browse the selection of used gearboxes, or send us this information and we’ll find it for you:

• Make, type and ratio of your current gearbox. They are on the nameplate on the housing.

• Make, type and power of your motor. This allows us to check if the coupling can handle the torque.

• The symptoms and when they occur. Slipping under load indicates something different to rattling at idle.

• What the oil reveals. Colour, smell, and any metal particles reveal a lot about the internal condition.

Call 0514-745007 or send a message via WhatsApp. With that information, we can tell at once if we have a suitable coupling in stock.

You’re moored up ashore, at the pontoon or quay, the engine is off, but the fridge, battery charger and lights on board are still demanding power. Shore power is the solution: you connect your boat to the marina’s electricity supply and use 230V electricity and power without draining your batteries, and without the extra emissions from a running engine or generator, and therefore also without extra emissions during charging. In this blog, you’ll read all about a shore power connection on your boat: what parts you need for a safe shore power connection, how to safely connect and use shore power step by step, what mistakes to avoid, and what to look out for to prevent galvanic corrosion and short circuits.

What is shore power and why do you use it?

Why shore power is a clever power solution for many boat owners, it’s all about convenience: shore power is electricity, specifically 230V AC, that runs to your boat or ship via the harbour pedestal or pontoon, instead of drawing power from your own batteries. Why shore power doesn’t feel the same everywhere, however, is because each harbour has its own connection point and its own power supply. In short:

• 16A connection. The average marina provides 16A, which equates to a maximum power and capacity of 3.7kW.
• 32A connection. Larger marinas sometimes also offer 32A (7.4kW) for boats with higher power consumption.
• Benefit for your batteries You can switch off the engine, alternator, and generator as soon as you’re moored, and still use your fridge, battery charger, and lights; your alternator won’t need to run extra to recharge your batteries.
• Typical power consumption A refrigerator (approx. 100W), a battery charger (500 to 700W) and lighting together remain well below the 3.7kW of a 16A connection.

Without shore power, you’ll have to run those appliances on your boat batteries, which will then drain them faster.

Which plug and socket do you use at the harbour?

Most marinas use a blue 16A cee plug for the shore power connection. This is the industrial plug according to the CEE standard (IEC 60309). The colour indicates the voltage: blue is 230V, red is 400V three-phase. The current rating is indicated by the size, as a 32A plug is larger than a 16A plug and will not fit into it. The blue shore power plug has three pins: phase, neutral, and earth. If your marina also has a 32A option, ask the harbourmaster which cee plugs and which shore power socket belong to it, as this varies from marina to marina. Some marinas operate with a fixed connection plan per berth, where the type of socket is already determined before you moor; such a connection plan shows exactly which shore power plug belongs to which berth and which cee plugs are present there.

Shore power versus your ship’s batteries

Without shore power, your onboard equipment draws energy from your ship’s batteries, which you then have to recharge via the engine, a generator, or solar panels. Using shore power prevents this cycle while you’re docked, meaning your batteries are less stressed, charge faster, and last longer. This way, the connection to shore remains the primary power source, rather than your own battery capacity.

What do you need to connect shore power?

For a complete and safe installation, you’ll need five components, which only work together to form a functional system for a well-operating shore power setup. Below, you’ll find what to look out for with each component.

Shore power cable

This cable connects the shore power pedestal to the socket on your boat. Choose a cable specifically made for shore power, preferably with a neoprene outer sheath: this is resistant to outdoor weather and damp conditions, unlike a standard extension lead. A cable with a neoprene outer sheath also remains flexible in the cold, whereas a pvc cable will quickly become stiff and brittle. When purchasing, pay attention to the core thickness (minimum 2.5mm² for 16A) and a length that suits the distance to the shore power pedestal; shore power cables are available in various lengths.

CEE inlet (shore power connection)

This is the onboard shore power socket where you connect the shore power cable. You can fix the inlet to the hull or the cockpit of your boat; you can install it yourself or have it done by a fitter. In our range, you will find, for example, a CEE flush-mount shore power connection of 16A with a rotary cover. The cover seals the connection point against rain and spray when no cable is plugged in. Inlets are available as flush-mount and surface-mount models, in plastic and stainless steel. Please note with branded systems such as Ratio and Marinco: their moulded plugs will only fit an inlet of the same brand.

Ensure that every onboard socket powered by shore power is connected behind the residual-current device.

Battery charger

A battery charger such as from our Victron Battery Chargers range converts the shore power to the correct voltage to charge your boat’s batteries, while simultaneously allowing you to use 230V equipment onboard. A battery charger does not require an inverter. An inverter is a separate choice: you only need one if you want to run 230V devices from your batteries while underway, without shore power. If you want both, a charger and inverter in one unit is practical. The Victron Blue Smart chargers can be read via Bluetooth with the VictronConnect app, so you can see on your phone how your batteries are doing. How to connect chargers, inverters, and batteries together can be read in our blog about connecting boat electrics.

Earth leakage switch

This switch detects leakage current and cuts off the power supply as soon as a fault occurs. On board, you should choose a 30 mA residual current device (RCD) that switches double-pole, meaning it interrupts both the live and neutral wires. Shore power is simply 230V, just like at home. The difference is the environment: moisture, a hull that can conduct electricity, and water all around make leakage current more dangerous more quickly. The RCD trips as soon as the leakage current exceeds a set value, de-energising the system and immediately disconnecting from the marina’s electricity grid. Choose an RCD with a current rating that matches your shore power connection (16A or 32A) and test it again with every connection. The shore power cabinet on the jetty should also have its own RCD, but don’t rely on that alone.

In addition to the RCD, you will usually also install one or more fuses, each with its own role:

• Main fuse on board Choose a lower value than the harbour main fuse: this fuse interrupts the circuit in case of overload or short circuit, before this leads to damage to your installation.
• Fuse at the battery charger A second fuse close to the battery charger provides additional protection for this component against overload.
• Fuse at the socket outlet A third fuse near the shore power socket prevents a local circuit from becoming overloaded.

The correct rating for each fuse is usually stated on the packaging or in the manual.

Isolation transformer (optional, but recommended)

This component isolates your boat’s electrical system from the shore power source, preventing galvanic corrosion between boats in a marina. A lighter alternative is a galvanic isolator, which blocks small leakage voltages without offering the full electrical isolation of an isolation transformer. An isolation transformer or galvanic isolator is particularly relevant if you regularly moor in the same marina amongst other boats with shore power.

For the shore power cable, cable lugs and other cable installation components, and for the broader Marine Electricals range, you’ll find a complete overview of products in the AB Marine Service webshop. If you’re unsure between two similar products, we’ll be happy to help you choose which products best suit your shore power installation.

Guide: how to safely connect shore power

Follow these eight steps in the correct order to safely connect shore power to your boat.

Before connecting

1. Turn off the shore power group on board with the main switch This way, there will be no voltage on the groups when you plug in later.
2. Turn off the switch or circuit breaker of the shore power box on the quay, if the harbour has one Never plug into a live box.
3. Check the shore power cable for damage Replace a cable with cracks, exposed wires, or a damaged shore power plug before proceeding.

While connecting

1. First, connect the cable to your boat’s shore power socket This way, the live part always remains on the shore, and you’ll never have a live cable end in your hand above the water.
2. Then connect the other end to the marina post and check that the plug clicks firmly into place. Hang the cable so that there is a downward loop for the shore power connection, so that rainwater drips off the cable instead of running into your inlet.
3. Switch on the shore power cabinet on the jetty, and then switch on the main switch on board.

After connecting

1. Test the RCD with the Test button The switch must trip immediately; if it doesn’t, the RCD is faulty and you must not proceed.
2. Check that your battery charger and 230V equipment are functioning normally Stay nearby for the first few minutes to notice any strange noises, smells, or heat development.

When disconnecting, you follow the same steps in reverse order: first the main onboard switch off, then the shore power box off, then the plug from the shore pedestal, and finally the plug from the boat.

Safety and galvanic corrosion: what to watch out for?

Which residual current device is mandatory, and which you arrange yourself

The standard for electrical installations in marinas, NEN 1010 part 7-709, stipulates that each socket on the jetty has its own residual-current device (RCD) of no more than 30 mA and its own overcurrent protection. You cannot see from the jetty whether that protection is working, and abroad you don’t know what’s in the pedestal. If you have an isolation transformer, the RCD in the pedestal will no longer detect a fault on board at all. For installations on board pleasure craft up to 24 metres, NEN-EN-ISO 13297 applies. Therefore, do not blindly rely on the protection in the pedestal, and install your own RCD immediately after your shore power connection. If you are unsure whether your installation complies with the standard, have it checked by an installer.

What galvanic corrosion is and how it occurs

Besides the risk of electric shock, galvanic corrosion also plays a role as soon as your boat is earthed via shore power. Your boat then gets an electrical connection to other boats in the harbour via the shared earthing of the shore power grid. Differences in metal potential between these boats will corrode the least noble metal: the propeller, propeller shaft, saildrive and other metal parts below the waterline. This also happens in fresh water, only more slowly than in salt water. The first thing you’ll notice is that your anodes are depleting faster than you’re used to.

When do you need an isolation transformer?

A galvanic isolator provides your boat with its own, isolated electrical circuit: you still have an earth connection, but no longer a direct link to other boats via the marina’s grid. If you predominantly moor on shore in your own, permanent berth among other boats with shore power, a galvanic isolator is a wise investment. If you are unsure whether this is necessary for your situation, seek advice from an installer who is familiar with your marina and boat setup.

Which shore power cable and connection are right for your boat?

The correct cable thickness and length depend on the amperage of your marina connection and the distance between the shore pedestal and the boat. Pay attention to these three points when making your choice:

• Cable thickness For a 16A connection, a cable of at least 2.5mm² per core is common; for 32A, you will need a thicker cable to prevent overheating.
• Cable length Choose the length based on the distance to the shore pedestal or quay, with some extra length so the cable is never taut due to swell or tide; shore power cables are available in various lengths, from short cables for a permanent berth to long cables for changing harbours.
• Storage during use A cable that is too short will detach or be damaged by your boat’s movement, while a cable that is too long is difficult to store and is more likely to hang in the water. Never coil a cable that is too long tightly while in use: this restricts current flow and can cause the cable to overheat unnecessarily.

Common mistakes when connecting shore power

We often see a number of mistakes when connecting shore power, and these can be easily prevented with a little preparation.

• Using a standard extension cord instead of a shore power cable An extension cord is not designed for outdoor use in a damp, salty environment and lacks the robust connections of a shore power cable.
• Skipping or not testing the residual current device Without a tested residual current device, you will only notice a leakage current when it already causes dangerous situations.
• Connecting too many appliances simultaneously to a 16A socket A water heater and air conditioning unit together with your battery charger can quickly exceed the 3.7kW of a 16A socket, causing the main circuit breaker or the harbour’s fuse to trip.
• Not taking galvanic corrosion into account Boats that are connected to shore power for years without a galvanic isolator or isolation transformer are more likely to suffer corrosion damage to underwater metal components.

Connect to shore power safely and with the correct parts

When connecting to shore power, the right shore power cable, a functional RCD, and, depending on your situation, an isolation transformer will ensure a safe shore power connection to the harbour or quay’s shore power grid. Take a look at the boot electra product range and the Victron Energy product range from AB Marine Service for shore power cables, connectors, and battery chargers to suit your shore power boat setup and any vessel that is regularly connected to shore power. You can find more background information on boat electrics on the Engineering Blog. Do you have any questions about which components are suitable for your situation? Feel free to contact us, or send us a message via WhatsApp.

On a boat, there are numerous ways for water to find its way in. Whether it’s rainwater, water from the pipes, a leaking propeller shaft, or spray during sailing: some rainwater often ends up in the bilge.

The bilge is the lowest part of a ship, where the two sides meet to form the keel. This is where water, oil, mud, and other rubbish can collect. You ideally want to keep this area clean and dry.

The solution for dampness and dirt in the bilge is a reliable bilge pump. At AB Marine Service you’ll find automatic bilge pumps that do the work themselves as soon as there’s water in the bilge. This way you don’t have to keep an eye on whether pumping is needed.

What a bilge pump does

The bilge pump has a number of functions. Without a bilge pump, your vessel could become heavier, unstable, or sustain damage. In the worst-case scenario, it could even sink your boat. Naturally, we’d rather avoid that.

Pumping water out of the bilge

The main job of the bilge pump is to pump out water that’s ended up in the bilge. This could be rainwater, or water that’s got in through a leak or spray. That’s why a bilge pump is always fitted at the lowest point of the bilge, because water collects there and can be pumped out efficiently.

Protection against oil and debris

The bilge can accumulate much more than just water. Think of small residues of oil, dirt, or even diesel. A strong pump prevents this muck from building up and potentially causing damage. It’s important, however, to regularly check the pump and hoses for blockages or debris.

How does a bilge pump work?

There’s a range of bilge pumps on the market. The key difference is between manual and automatic models.

Manual bilge pump with switch

With a manual bilge pump, you operate the pump yourself using a switch or a control panel. This allows you to decide when to turn the pump on and off. You’ll need to be the one monitoring whether pumping is actually required, though.

Automatic bilge pump with built-in float

When a pump has automatic operation, it has a float switch or built-in float. As the water level rises, the float moves up, and the pump switches on automatically. It then pumps out the bilge water until the level drops below a certain point again.

What do you need to connect a bilge pump?

Connecting a bilge pump is a job most DIYers can manage quite well. The aim is a safe and watertight connection for the pump, with no risk of a short circuit. Make sure you have the following bits and bobs to hand:

• A suitable bilge pump
• A switch or control panel
• Wiring tools
• Sturdy cables
  
• A fuse
• Hose clamps
• A cooling water hose
• A battery connection

Connecting the bilge pump: step-by-step explanation

Right then, time to get that bilge pump wired up. We’ll walk you through it in five straightforward steps. If you’re missing a bit or fancy asking a question, just give our experts a shout.

Step 1: Choose the right location

Find the location of the bilge pump. You’ll want the pump in the lowest part of the hull, as that’s where all the water will drain. Ensure the pump is securely mounted and easy to install. Allow ample space for the hose and wiring.

Step 2: Connect the hose

Attach the drain hose to the pump. Use one or two hose clamps to create a secure and watertight seal. Route the hose upwards, ensuring the outlet always remains above the waterline. This prevents water from flowing back down the hose.

Step 3: Wiring and fuse

Connect the pump to the boat’s power supply. Always fit a separate fuse between the pump and the battery to prevent short circuits or overloading. Neatly conceal the wiring and use waterproof connectors or heat-shrink tubing to prevent corrosion.

Step 4: Switch or automatic mode

Figure out how you want to run the pump. For manual operation, you’ll connect the pump to a switch or a control panel. If you’re going for an automatic setup, you’ll use a float switch. A lot of bilge pumps give you the option to have both.

Step 5: A thorough test

Run a pre-sail installation test. Pour a controlled amount of water into the bilge and check if the pump activates. Ensure there are no leaks at the connections and that the drainage functions as expected. A test run will prevent unwelcome surprises out on the water.

Practical tips for a reliable bilge pump

For the bilge pump to work reliably, here are a few more tips. We’ve put them in a list for you.

• Consider placing the pump in a holder or fitting a small shelf beside it. This will stop the pump from getting mucky or sitting directly in any loose debris.
• Never install wiring without a fuse. Such a simple fuse can save your entire vessel in the event of a short circuit.
• When selecting a pump, be sure to factor in its capacity. For bigger boats, you’ll likely require a pump with a greater litres-per-hour output.
• Always use a non-return valve. This prevents the pumped-out water from flowing back and refilling your bilge.

Frequently asked questions about bilge pumps

We regularly get the same questions about bilge pumps. Therefore, we’re providing some answers to such questions. If your question isn’t here, please don’t hesitate to get in touch.

My bilge pump keeps running. What should I do?

If your automatic bilge pump keeps running, then the float switch is sticking. This can be due to wear and tear or the build-up of dirt or oil. If the pump continues to run, clean it and see if that helps. If not, it’s probably time for a new pump.

Where should the discharge hose lead?

Ensure the drainage hose always exits above the water level. This allows the water to escape freely. We advise against excessive bends in the hose and suggest using hose clips to prevent any leakage.

Does the pump always have to operate automatically?

No, that’s not strictly necessary. Some people prefer manual control to maintain more oversight. Generally, an automatic pump is considered safer, as it will activate even if there’s a leak and you’re not on board.

How do I know if it’s working without water in the bilge?

Ideally, you should test the bilge pump every few weeks when the boat is in the water. Especially if the boat’s been moored for a while or is connected to shore power. Just chucking a bucket of water into the bilge is enough to see if the pump’s still doing its job.

What do you need for large or small motorboats?

For small motorboats, a standard bilge pump will suffice. On bigger boats, you’ll have a deeper bilge and might need a pump with a higher capacity. In that case, it’s sensible to opt for a bigger, more powerful pump.

Buy a bilge pump and more at AB Marine Service

At AB Marine Service, we have everything your boat needs. Order your automatic bilge pump with built-in sensor, including all the connection materials you need to get started safely on board. Do you have any questions? Feel free to get in touch. We’re happy to help.

If you have a marine diesel, you’ll know: maintenance not only determines how smoothly the engine runs, but also how reliable it remains. Yet, we see with boat owners (for example, with a Volvo Penta) that one maintenance step is regularly skipped or remains a bit vague: flushing the engine.

Flushing can help loosen contaminants and deposits in the oil system, particularly in older engines, when there’s uncertainty about their maintenance history, or if the engine frequently idles. In this blog, we’ll explain what engine flushing is, when you should or shouldn’t do it, and what it generally costs.

What is engine flushing?

Engine flushing is the cleaning of the internal oil system. You add a special cleaning agent to the old engine oil, then run the engine briefly according to the product’s instructions, and then drain the oil. The aim is to loosen sludge and accumulated deposits from the crankcase and oil channels, so that this contamination is removed with the old oil. Afterwards, you replace the oil filter and fill with new oil.

On marine diesels, you sometimes see varnish deposits: a thin, sticky film that can range in colour from golden to brown. This can be caused not only by a engine not reaching its operating temperature but also by extended oil change intervals, a lot of idling/low-load running, prolonged periods of inactivity, and contamination (such as water or a bit of diesel in the oil). This deposit can impair lubrication and cause parts to move less smoothly. With heavy contamination (sludge), there’s even a risk that oil passages or a strainer could become partially blocked, which is why flushing is something you undertake deliberately and properly.

When is it advisable to flush an engine?

You don’t need to flush your engine with every service. However, in some cases, it has clear advantages. We’ll list those cases for you.

When the engine doesn’t run much

Boat engines that run infrequently often benefit from a flush. This is because they don’t often reach operating temperature, and the stagnant oil ages. This can lead to contamination, (partial) blockages, and the formation of acids and ‘black sludge’ in the crankcase. A flush can reduce this.

When the engine idles a lot

Also when the engine primarily runs at idle, the system doesn’t always reach an optimal temperature. This promotes oxidation of the engine oil and lacquer deposits. This, therefore, affects lubrication and the oil’s performance. In cases of heavy soiling, it can even (partially) block oilways.

When the engine has direct cooling

In the case of direct-cooled diesel engines, they often run cooler than closed systems. This gives dirt and the formation of ‘black sludge’ more of a chance. For direct-cooled engines, it can therefore be advisable to flush them slightly more often, especially if the engine runs at low load a lot or the maintenance history is unclear.

When the maintenance history is unknown

Perhaps you’ve bought a boat with an unclear maintenance history. In that case, the oil might not always have been changed on time. A flush reduces the risk of hidden contamination in the engine block and ensures a fresh start.

When the engine oil is old

If engine oil remains in the block for too long, it loses its lubricating and cleaning properties. Additives become depleted, dirt can accumulate, and acids may start to form. This leads to increased wear on components such as the bearings.

Should you have further doubts about the engine’s condition, it can also be helpful to follow a step-by-step guide for cleaning an diesel engine. Also in the case of a smoking diesel engine solutions are possible.

In what ways can you flush an engine?

There are several ways to flush an engine. Depending on the extent of the deposits, you can opt for using a cleaning agent, flushing with a standard flushing oil, or flushing with a more powerful flushing oil. We will cover these three options.

Add Oil System Flush to used oil

The most popular and cost-effective way to Flush your engine is with a cleaning agent that you add to the warm Oil just before draining it. Two good options are Oil System Flush and Oil Flow Renovator from Innotec.

Both agents mix with the old oil and loosen contamination, varnish deposits, and ‘black sludge’, so that they exit with the drained oil. Innotec’s Oil Flow Renovator is a 300 ml bottle that you add to the warm, idling engine approximately 15 minutes before draining. The active ingredients encapsulate carbon deposits, sediment, and wear particles. The product is also suitable for engines with ticking hydraulic tappets and tackles contamination in areas such as under the valve cover, on the cylinder head, and in the oil galleries. Oil System Flush typically works within 5 to 15 minutes. Both products are suitable for petrol, LPG, and diesel engines with or without a turbo and are not harmful to diesel particulate filters or catalytic converters.

A flush is a good choice during a regular oil change and for light to moderate contamination. Afterwards, you change the oil and filter, so the system runs with clean oil again. Tip: top up the new oil with Engine Oil Plus for extra protection and optimisation.

After flushing: optimise your engine with Engine Oil Plus

Whatever flush method you choose, you can enhance the result by adding Innotec’s Engine Oil Plus to the new engine oil. This additive has been specially developed for use after a flush treatment.

Engine Oil Plus restores the elasticity of rubber seals, such as the front and rear crankshaft seals and valve stem seals. These often become hard after years of contact with old oil and seal less effectively. Furthermore, the additive lays down a nanocoating for lubrication within the oil system, allowing moving parts to run more smoothly and reducing Engine noise. Oil consumption and blow-by past the piston rings also decrease.

The product is suitable for petrol, LPG and diesel engines, with or without a turbocharger, and is not harmful to particulate filters or catalytic converters. A 300 ml bottle costs approximately €22.

Step-by-step guide for using Oil System Flush

Always follow the instructions on the packaging and do not exceed the recommended running time.

1. Let the engine run until warm.
2. Switch off the engine.
3. Add Oil System Flush to the oil.
4. Let the engine idle.
5. Switch off the engine.
6. Drain the warm, old oil.
7. Replace the oil filter.
8. Fill the engine with fresh oil.

Flushing the engine with Flushing Oil when internally contaminated

If there is internal contamination, it is advisable to go a step further. Then we recommend Flushing Oil. The favourable choice of viscosity, high-quality base oils and special detergent and dispersant additives make Flushing Oil extremely effective.

Flushing Oil contains additives to prevent wear, corrosion, and foaming. It is also suitable for use when the old engine Oil contains a lot of condensation or white sludge. The recommended operating time is typically around 20 to 30 minutes for both diesel and petrol engines.

Flushing Oil is a good choice when there is significant internal contamination. It cleans more intensively than a cleaning agent added to the old oil. You can also use it before switching to a different or higher quality oil.

Step-by-step guide for using Flushing Oil

Beforehand, check that the engine has sufficient oil pressure and only run the engine at idle during flushing.

1. Let the engine run until warm.
2. Switch off the engine.
3. Drain the warm, old oil.
4. Pour Flushing Oil into the empty engine.
5. Let the engine idle.
6. Switch off the engine.
7. Drain the warm flushing oil.
8. Replace the oil filter.
9. Top up the engine with new engine oil.

Heavy contamination? Choose Flushing Oil Pro and Neutralizer Oil Pro

For a professional cleaning of heavily soiled engines, it is advisable to opt for a thorough approach with Flushing Oil Pro and Neutralizer Oil Pro. Thanks to Flushing Oil Pro, you can tackle deposits, ‘black sludge’, and more like never before.

For a thorough cleaning of heavily soiled engines, you can opt for Flushing Oil Pro in combination with Neutralizer Oil Pro. Flushing Oil Pro has been developed to loosen heavy deposits and ‘black sludge’ in engines with severe internal contamination.

Because Flushing Oil Pro is even stronger than regular Flushing Oil, it’s important to also rinse with Neutralizer Oil Pro after using Flushing Oil Pro. This product has been specially developed to completely remove any residue from the flushing agent and clean the engine.

This combination of products is recommended when there is heavy contamination and no oil change has taken place for a long time. Changing the oil in combination with the flushing process often prevents costly repairs.

Step-by-step guide for using Flushing Oil Pro and Neutralizer Oil Pro

1. Let the engine run until warm.
2. Switch off the engine.
3. Drain the warm oil.
4. Pour Flushing Oil Pro into the empty engine.
5. Let the engine idle.
6. Switch off the engine.
7. Drain the warm flushing oil.
8. Replace the oil filter.
9. Pour Neutralizer Oil Pro into the empty engine.
10. Let the engine idle.
11. Switch off the engine.
12. Tap again.
13. Replace the oil filter again.
14. Top up the engine with new engine oil.

What are the costs of flushing an engine?

Do you choose a cleaning agent like Oil System Flush? This works out at about €17 for a 310ml bottle. One bottle typically allows you to treat 4 to 6 litres of oil. You can add the costs of new oil and a new oil filter to this.

Taking it a step further with Flushing Oil? Then a 1-litre bottle costs around 14 euros. For a professional clean, opt for Flushing Oil Pro and Neutralizer Oil Pro. Flushing Oil Pro costs around 80 euros and Neutralizer Oil Pro around 68 euros.

Flushing almost always offers significant benefits and better performance when it comes to oil consumption. If you have it done by a professional mechanic, you will naturally also have to factor in labour costs.

Clearing out ‘black sludge’? Order everything from AB Marine Service

In the case of a dirty engine, flushing is necessary. It ensures a clean engine with better lubrication, prevents increased wear, and extends the engine’s lifespan. It is particularly necessary for engines that idle or do not reach operating temperature, to remove deposits.

Do you also want to keep your engine in optimal condition? With us, you can order everything you need to get this job done. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact us. We’re happy to help.

With a boat, there are countless ways water can find its way in. Some rainwater often ends up in the bilge. The solution for dampness and dirt in the bilge is a reliable bilge pump.

The bilge is the lowest part of a ship, where the two sides meet to form the keel. This is where water, oil, mud, and other rubbish can collect. You ideally want to keep this area clean and dry.

The solution for dampness and dirt in the bilge is a reliable bilge pump. At AB Marine Service, you’ll find automatic bilge pumps that do the job themselves as soon as there’s water in the bilge. That way, you don’t have to keep an eye on whether pumping is needed.

What a bilge pump does

The bilge pump has a number of functions. Without a bilge pump, your vessel could become heavier, unstable, or sustain damage. In the worst-case scenario, it could even sink your boat. Naturally, we’d rather avoid that.

Pumping bilge water

The main job of the bilge pump is to pump out water that’s ended up in the bilge. This could be rainwater, or water that’s got in through a leak or spray. That’s why a bilge pump is always fitted at the lowest point of the bilge, because water collects there and can be pumped out efficiently.

Protection from oil and grime

The bilge can accumulate much more than just water. Think of small residues of oil, dirt, or even diesel. A strong pump prevents this muck from building up and potentially causing damage. It’s important, however, to regularly check the pump and hoses for blockages or debris.

How does a bilge pump work?

There’s a range of bilge pumps on the market. The key difference is between manual and automatic models.

Manual bilge pump with switch

With a manual bilge pump, you operate the pump yourself using a switch or a control panel. This allows you to decide when to turn the pump on and off. You’ll need to be the one monitoring whether pumping is actually required, though.

Automatic bilge pump with built-in float switch

When a pump has automatic operation, it has a float switch or built-in float. As the water level rises, the float moves up, and the pump switches on automatically. It then pumps out the bilge water until the level drops below a certain point again.

What do you need to connect a bilge pump?

Connecting a bilge pump is a job most DIYers can manage quite well. The aim is a safe and watertight connection for the pump, with no risk of a short circuit. Make sure you have the following bits and bobs to hand:

• Een geschikte bilgepomp
• Een schakelaar of schakelpaneel
• Wiring tools
• Sturdy cables
• A fuse
• Hose clamps
• Een afvoerslang
• A battery connection

Connecting a bilge pump: a step-by-step guide/strong>

Right then, time to get that bilge pump wired up. We’ll walk you through it in five straightforward steps. If you’re missing a bit or fancy asking a question, just give our experts a shout.

Step 1: Choose the right spot

Find the location of the bilge pump. You’ll want the pump in the lowest part of the hull, as that’s where all the water will drain. Ensure the pump is securely mounted and easy to install. Allow ample space for the hose and wiring.

Step 2: Connect the hose

Attach the drain hose to the pump. Use one or two hose clamps to create a secure and watertight seal. Route the hose upwards, ensuring the outlet always remains above the waterline. This prevents water from flowing back down the hose.

Step 3: Wiring and Fusing

Connect the pump to the boat’s power supply. Always fit a separate fuse between the pump and the battery to prevent short circuits or overloading. Neatly conceal the wiring and use waterproof connectors or heat-shrink tubing to prevent corrosion.

Step 4: Switch or auto mode

Figure out how you want to run the pump. For manual operation, you’ll connect the pump to a switch or a control panel. If you’re going for an automatic setup, you’ll use a float switch. A lot of bilge pumps give you the option to have both.

Step 5: A thorough test

Run a pre-sail installation test. Pour a controlled amount of water into the bilge and check if the pump activates. Ensure there are no leaks at the connections and that the drainage functions as expected. A test run will prevent unwelcome surprises out on the water.

Practical tips for a reliable bilge pump

For the bilge pump to work reliably, here are a few more tips. We’ve put them in a list for you.

• Consider placing the pump in a holder or fitting a small shelf beside it. This will stop the pump from getting mucky or sitting directly in any loose debris.
• Never install wiring without a fuse. Such a simple fuse can save your entire vessel in the event of a short circuit.
• When selecting a pump, be sure to factor in its capacity. For bigger boats, you’ll likely require a pump with a greater litres-per-hour output.
• Always use a non-return valve. This prevents the pumped-out water from flowing back and refilling your bilge.

Frequently asked questions about bilge pumps

We regularly get the same questions about bilge pumps. Therefore, we’re providing some answers to such questions. If your question isn’t here, please don’t hesitate to get in touch.

My bilge pump keeps running. What now?

If your automatic bilge pump keeps running, then the float switch is sticking. This can be due to wear and tear or the build-up of dirt or oil. If the pump continues to run, clean it and see if that helps. If not, it’s probably time for a new pump.

Where should the drain hose go?

Ensure the drainage hose always exits above the water level. This allows the water to escape freely. We advise against excessive bends in the hose and suggest using hose clips to prevent any leakage.

Does the pump always have to operate automatically?

No, that’s not strictly necessary. Some people prefer manual control to maintain more oversight. Generally, an automatic pump is considered safer, as it will activate even if there’s a leak and you’re not on board.

How do I know if it’s working without water in the bilge?

Ideally, you should test the bilge pump every few weeks when the boat is in the water. Especially if the boat’s been moored for a while or is connected to shore power. Just chucking a bucket of water into the bilge is enough to see if the pump’s still doing its job.

What do you need for big or small motorboats?

For small motorboats, a standard bilge pump will suffice. On bigger boats, you’ll have a deeper bilge and might need a pump with a higher capacity. In that case, it’s sensible to opt for a bigger, more powerful pump.

Buy a bilge pump and more at AB Marine Service

At AB Marine Service, we’ve got everything you need for your boat. Order your automatic bilge pump with built-in sensor, including all the connection materials you’ll need to get started safely on board. Got any questions? Don’t hesitate to get in touch. We’re happy to help.

It’s almost time, the sailing season is about to start!

Our team can’t wait to get out on the water. To ensure a carefree sailing season, a summer check is, of course, essential. By following the steps in our summer check, you’ll know your vessel is completely ready for a fantastic year of sailing.

When do you get your boat ready for summer?
You get your boat ready before the sailing season begins. Most boat owners get their boat ready for summer in March.

In this article, you’ll find the 4 steps to get your boat ready for summer, the necessary products, and all information in pdf format so you can easily keep it. Ready? Let’s get started!

• 1. The engine
• 2. Hull, deck and rudder
• 3. Gas & Electricity
• 4. Navigation & Safety
• 5. Required products
• 6. Download the manual

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1. The engine

As your boat has been stationary for a number of months, it’s important to check the engine. If you have winterised the boat, a brief check is sufficient.

SUPPLIES:

• Fuel filters
• Engine oil
• V-belts
• Coolant
• Impeller

DURATION:
About 30 minutes

STEP 1:
First, check that the area around the engine is clean and dry. There should be absolutely no visible oil or water leaks. Also, check the pipes for this immediately. Don’t forget to check all the hoses for any signs of cracking.

STEP 2:
Replace the fuel filters and take a few spares with you for the journey.

STEP 3:
Change the engine oil if this hasn’t been done before winter.

STEP 4:
Check the V-belts and adjust their tension. If you can’t turn them more than a quarter turn between your thumb and forefinger, they are tight enough. Are the V-belts worn? Replace them then, to prevent you from breaking down in the middle of the water. Also ensure you have a spare on board, should it be necessary to replace the belts during the season.

STEP 5:
Check the coolant, oil level and battery.

STEP 6:
Start the engine and check that the water is being drawn in and circulating correctly.

STEP 7:
Check the impeller, replace it if necessary and carry a spare impeller with you for the journey.

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2. Hull, deck and rudder

Now it’s time to check the hull, the propeller shaft and the tarpaulin.

SUPPLIES:

• Antifouling
• Anodes
• Grease
• Tarpaulin cleaning supplies

DURATION:
About one hour (excluding antifouling application)

STEP 1:
antifouling is essential for extending the lifespan of your boat and preventing high fuel consumption caused by growth. Check the underside of the boat and apply a new coat of antifouling if necessary. Is your boat in saltwater? Then you’ll need to apply a new coat of antifouling sooner than if your boat is in freshwater.

STEP 2:
Check for play in the outer bearing by moving the propeller shaft at a right angle to the direction of rotation. The play should be a maximum of 0.50 to 1 mm. In any case, it is important that it does not rattle and turns smoothly.

STEP 3:
The anodes on your vessel can degrade significantly within a year. Check if they need replacing to prevent damage to other metal components. Replace an anode when more than +/- 60% of its original mass has worn away. For freshwater boating, you need an aluminium anode; for saltwater boating, fit zinc anodes to the hull. Are the sensitive parts on your aluminium-hulled vessel still suffering
from corrosion? If so, fit magnesium anodes. Be aware, these can corrode faster than usual! If your vessel is in brackish water, aluminium is the best choice.

STEP 4:
Have algae, mussels, and barnacles grown on the propeller shaft? Sand or paint them to prevent a reduction in drive efficiency. Also, check if there is too much play in the propeller shaft. For a greased propeller shaft, check if the outer gland is lubricated by grease. If not? Then there can be two causes
for this: you are using too little grease or the clearance on the propeller shaft is too large, causing grease to leak away too quickly. If you have used too little grease, this is of course easily solved by greasing more and more regularly. Is there too much clearance on the propeller shaft? Then contact us so we can provide a suitable solution.

STEP 5:
Before launching, the sterntube and propeller shaft can be greased and checked. Some types have a special grease nipple, others need to be dismantled. Top Tip! When launching, the sterntube needs to be properly vented, otherwise it will run dry. By squeezing and deforming it, you can create an opening for the air to escape.

STEP 6:
With good maintenance, a tarpaulin can last for years. Clean the tarpaulin and check all zips, straps, and seams. Take your tarpaulin to a specialist for any repairs.

STEP 7:
Check the condition of the ropes and ensure all necessary lines are on board. Are there any dirty ropes? If so, wash them in the washing machine at 30 degrees. Frayed ends of ropes should be sealed with a flame to prevent further fraying.

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3. Gas & Electricity

Checking the gas and electricity connections is extremely important to prevent dangerous situations. Have the connections inspected by an accredited company; you can often find them at larger marinas.

SUPPLIES:

• Hose
• Vaseline spray

DURATION:
About 30 minutes

STEP 1:
Is the gas hose damaged? Always replace it then. Regardless, it’s important to replace the hose after five years, even if it still looks good. The year of manufacture is indicated on the hose.

STEP 2:
Check all electrical connections, the lights, and the plugs. Replace rusty plugs as they pose a fire hazard.

STEP 3:
Check the fluid level of the batteries if they have caps. You cannot check a sealed battery. If you are unsure about the condition of the battery, you can have it tested. A marina or car garage often has the right equipment. Clean the terminals and fasten them securely. Are the battery terminals turning green with corrosion (also known as cauliflower)? Then the battery is probably leaking at the terminals. In that case, replace the battery. Afterwards, lubricate the terminals with vaseline.

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4. Navigation & Safety

Lastly, it’s important that you check the navigation and safety. This way, you can head out onto the water with your boat worry-free. Enjoyment guaranteed!

SUPPLIES:

• Bike pump
• First aid kit parts

DURATION:
About 30 minutes

STEP 1:
Check that the nautical charts are still up-to-date. Ensure your compass, depth sounder, gps, and log are in good working order and that the relevant regulations are aboard your boat. Don’t forget to check if the speedometer wheel is loose.

STEP 2:
Are the life jackets in their designated place and still in good condition? Test the jackets by inflating them with a bicycle pump and checking for leaks. Do not do this by mouth, as moisture can get into the jacket. Life jackets used in recreational boating must be inspected every two years. The lifespan of inflatable life jackets is ten years. For an automatically inflatable vest, it is important to replace the gas cartridge and salt tablet after each use.

STEP 3:
Also take out the first-aid kit and replenish it if necessary. Check any flares, distress rockets, and fire extinguishers for their expiry dates.

5. Recommended products for preparing your boat for summer

6. Download the manual

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You have completed all the steps to get your boat ready for summer.

Please remember that the steps you take will vary from boat to boat. We have listed the necessary items to get your boat ready for summer so you can easily order them.

The AB Marine Service team wishes you a great sailing season!

Getting your boat ready for winter is always important, whether you’re keeping it in the water or storing it ashore. With AB Marine Service’s winter Check, you can be sure your boat is fully prepared for winter and you’ll be back out on the water enjoying it again sooner when the boating season starts. You get your boat ready when you’re no longer going to use it this season. Exactly when this is will, of course, vary from person to person. Most boat owners get their boats winter-ready in October. Getting your boat ready for winter consists of 6 steps. In this article, you’ll find the 6 steps to get your boat winter-ready, the necessary products, and all the information in pdf format so you can easily save it.

1. The engine
2. Technical parts
3. Water supply
4. The hull and the deck
5. Sailing boat
6. Equipment
7. Required products
8. Download the manual

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1. The engine

At the end of the boating season, it’s crucial to winterise your boat’s engine. Don’t skip this step, as your engine could otherwise suffer significant damage. To begin, it’s important to know whether your boat has an open or closed cooling system. A closed cooling system is filled with coolant. Not much can go wrong with this system. Do you have an open cooling system? In this case, water from the waterway is used to cool the engine. Absolutely no water must remain in the engine over winter. Follow the next steps to get your engine winter-ready.

SUPPLIES:

• Antifreeze

DURATION:
Average 15 minutes

STEP 1:
Close the water inlet valve. Do you not have a draining valve? If not, make sure to blow the water out of the valve before closing it. A valve with water in the ball will otherwise still break.

STEP 2:
Unscrew the weed filter.

STEP 3:
Ensure there is absolutely no water left in the engine. Look in the manual for the drain points. These points are often found on the side of the engine and underneath the manifolds.

STEP 4:
Is all the water out of the system? If so, you can proceed to the next step. You can optionally blow out the system with compressed air first before continuing.

STEP 5:
Run the engine while you slowly pour antifreeze into the weed filter, or place the supply hose into the jerrycan with antifreeze and then start the engine. Switch off the engine when antifreeze starts flowing from the exhaust of the cooling water system and catch the liquid in a bucket. Do not let it enter the waterway, as antifreeze is very harmful to the environment. Alternatively, use our biodegradable antifreeze.

STEP 6:
For boats that remain in the water over winter, the valve must also be filled with antifreeze. You can do this by filling the weed filter with antifreeze and opening and closing the inlet valve once, so that antifreeze seeps into the ball valve. Or even better, blow air into it and seal the valve under pressure so that only air is present.
And note, for boats that are ashore, keep the valve open to drain all water from the ball valve!

STEP 7:
Change the engine oil and replace the oil filter and the fuel filter. Diesel and fuel attract water. After the sailing season, it is advisable to replace these with new oil and filters to drain moisture in advance. New oil also protects the engine better due to the various additives.

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2. Technical parts

After winterising the engine, it’s time for the technical aspects. During this step, we’ll cover the gas and electrical supplies, and the technical components.

SUPPLIES:

• Grease for lubricating parts
• Cleaning supplies and bucket
• Anti-corrosion spray (multi-purpose spray)

DURATION:
Average 1-3 hours

STEP 1:
Disconnect the gas bottles and store them somewhere off the boat, for example at home. It’s best to store the bottles in a dry, well-ventilated place. Check the gas hoses and connections and replace them in good time. Any sign of wear means the parts need replacing to prevent accidents. Have gas hoses replaced by an authorised specialist (at least every three years).

STEP 2:
When batteries discharge, the acid is drawn into the plates. In winter, this can freeze. It is advisable to keep batteries fully charged. For example, you could opt to charge batteries occasionally with a trickle charger. You can also remove the batteries from board and store them in a dry place. It is still advisable to fully charge the batteries completely from time to time. Also check if the batteries need topping up with distilled water.

STEP 3:
Remove electrical equipment from board, as far as possible. Store the equipment in a dry and warm place. spray the exposed points and contact points on board with a moisture-repellent spray to prevent corrosion.

STEP 4:
Rotating parts such as the steering column, winches and gears must be checked. In addition, ensure that parts such as gears, the rudder tube and the propeller shaft are lubricated. During lubrication, force the water out so that it cannot freeze in the tube.

STEP 5:
Remove water from the bilge and clean the bilge thoroughly. Also, clean and dry the gas locker thoroughly.

STEP 6:
Check the level and condition of the coolant using our Glycol meter. Remove the impeller during the winter period so that it does not deform in the same position. Store the impeller in a dark place (the rubber is not UV resistant). Tension or replace the V-belt. Replace the coolant approximately every three years or if it is dirty and the frost resistance is too low (-25 degrees is the limit).

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3. Water supply

Now that the technical parts are ready for winter, we’ll move on to the water supply. Think about the toilet and the tap. Be aware that you must use a non-toxic antifreeze! The antifreeze used for cars is often toxic and therefore cannot be used now. Non-toxic antifreeze is better for the environment, but also for the pump’s rubber seals. Regular coolant will damage these. Please note: it’s not enough to pump your toilet dry, as residual water can remain in bends and corners.

SUPPLIES:

• Non-toxic antifreeze
• Cleaning supplies
• Sponge
• Optional: lubricant for the valves e.g. petroleum jelly or multi-spray

DURATION:
Average 30 minutes to 2 hours

STEP 1:
Close the skin fitting and disconnect the hose from the toilet’s water inlet. Hang the hose in the jerrycan with antifreeze. Pump the antifreeze through the toilet and close.

STEP 2:
Empty the fresh water tank completely. The last bit of water in the tank can be removed via the inspection hatch with a sponge, or hire a wet vacuum cleaner connected to the drain point, then turn on the taps one by one. Clean the tank. No water should remain in the hoses and water pumps. Don’t forget the outside shower and tap.

STEP 3:
Drain the water heater. Do you have an electric water heater? If so, disconnect the power first. To ensure all water is out of the system, disconnect the top hose from the water heater (hot water) and blow compressed air through the system. By opening each tap one by one, you will blow out all remaining water. Be careful not to build up too much pressure in the system; always keep a tap open.

STEP 4:
Fill all remaining valves with antifreeze. To do this, pour antifreeze into the supply point or hose and open the valve once so that antifreeze remains in the ball.

STEP 5:
Is your boat ashore? If so, drain the water from the valves and then close them. Cold and moisture can enter through open valves. It is advisable to lubricate the valves to prevent corrosion.

We’re halfway there!
Time to get the outside of your vessel shipshape for winter.

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4. The hull and the deck

The inside of your ship is all ready for winter. Time to make the outside of your boat ready for winter.

SUPPLIES:

• Cleaning supplies
• Wax (optional)
• Paint (optional)
• Grease for rubber
• Antifouling (optional)
• Boat cover

DURATION:
Average 1-3 hours

STEP 1:
Thoroughly clean the hull and the deck. If dirt remains on your boat during winter, it can become even more embedded. Also clean components such as fenders.

STEP 2:
Is your boat made of polyester? If so, apply a coat of wax. Polish the wax off in the spring.

STEP 3:
Does your boat have any bare patches? Treat any areas on the boat where the paint has worn away to protect them.

STEP 4:
To prevent rubber from cracking, lubricate all window and hatch rubbers with petroleum jelly spray.

STEP 5:
Leave internal hatches and lockers open for ventilation to prevent mould.

STEP 6:
Examine the underside of your boat. Can it last another year or does it need attention? If the underside of the boat requires treatment, you can apply antifouling paint.

STEP 7:
Protect your boat with a cover if you have one. A cover helps prevent frost damage.

STEP 8:
Secure everything properly! It can get quite windy in winter, and ropes and covers can flap about, quickly causing wear and tear or damage.

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5. Sailboat

Are you preparing your sailboat for winter? Then there are some extra parts to consider.

SUPPLIES:

• Cleaning supplies
• Lubricant for roller systems

DURATION:
Average 30 minutes to 1.5 hours

STEP 1:
Remove the sails and running rigging (ropes and wire) and store them in a dry place.

STEP 2:
Grease the furling systems for the jib or mainsail.

STEP 3:
Inspect the standing rigging. Is everything still intact? Are there any burrs or kinks? Are all split pins present and in good condition?

STEP 4:
Clean all blocks and sheaves.

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6. Equipment

In the final step of the checklist, you clean the equipment and prevent further damage from cold and damp.

SUPPLIES:

• Cleaning supplies
• Lubricant for roller systems

DURATION:

Between 30 minutes and 3 hours

STEP 1:
Remove all cushions, clean the cushion covers (if possible in the washing machine) and store them in a dry place.

STEP 2:
Thoroughly clean the boat. Remove all food and perishable items from board. Bottles or cans of drinks can also

STEP 3:
Remove other items that are not resistant to moisture and/or cold.

STEP 4:
Remove clothing and life jackets from the vessel. Check that the life jackets are still in good condition and replace if necessary.

STEP 5:
Check the fire extinguishers and have them inspected if necessary.

STEP 6:
Place moisture absorbers in all areas of the boat to prevent dampness.

7. Recommended products for preparing your boat for winter

8. Download the manual

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You have completed all the steps to prepare your boat for winter. Please remember that the steps you follow will vary depending on your boat. Does your boat have any parts where water can remain, or where moisture and cold could cause damage? If so, ensure these parts are also prepared for winter.

Tip: It’s also worth popping down to your boat during the winter. For instance, check that the cover is still secure. It would be a shame to have gone to a lot of trouble preparing your boat for winter, only for it to suffer damage nonetheless.

We wish you the best of luck with preparing your boat for winter!

Written by the technical team at AB Marine Service.

Whether you’re an experienced boater or just starting out with tinkering on your own boat, it’s good to know what an anode is. We’ll explain the meaning of an anode, what an anode does, what types of anodes there are, and how they protect your boat from galvanic corrosion.

What is an anode?

An anode is a sacrificial metal that protects the metal components of your boat from galvanic corrosion, the degradation that occurs when different metals are in contact with each other via water. An anode is the component that voluntarily sacrifices itself to protect the rest of your boat. It consists of a metal that is less noble than the other metals on board, such as the propeller, propeller shaft, or engine.

For those who want to know the technical details: as soon as two different metals come into contact with each other via water, an electrical current is generated between those metals. The anode then gives off electrons, while the metal being protected, the cathode, receives electrons. This way, the cathode remains intact, and the anode corrodes instead.

An anode is an essential part of your boat’s protection system against galvanic corrosion. This corrosion occurs when different metals come into contact with an electrolyte, such as distilled water, fresh, salt, or brackish water.

How does a boat anode work?

On a boat, the anode is deliberately the least noble metal. This electrode is used to protect other metal components. The anode forms the positive pole, while the cathode, also called the cathode, is the negative pole.

The cathode is the electrode that actually accepts electrons, while the anode gives them up. This interaction causes current to flow from the anode to the cathode, thereby preventing corrosion damage. This principle is very similar to what happens during electrolysis, but applied as a protective mechanism.

Through this action, current flows from the anode towards the cathode, creating a controlled current. This electric current ensures that it is the anode itself that corrodes, not the important metal parts. This protects components such as the propeller, the propeller shaft, and other metal components.

Types of anodes: magnesium, zinc or aluminium

There are various types of anodes available, each designed for specific water conditions and materials. The most commonly used are zinc, aluminium, and magnesium. These materials gradually dissolve in the surrounding solution or mixture in which the metal is located.

Magnesium anodes: perfect for fresh water

A magnesium anode is most suitable for use in fresh water. Magnesium is the least noble metal of the three and therefore corrodes the quickest. This makes magnesium anodes ideal for use in fresh water, where corrosion is less aggressive. However, it is important to note that magnesium anodes are not suitable for use in salt water, as they would corrode too quickly there.

Zinc anodes: ideal for saltwaterr

A zinc anode is best suited for use in saltwater. Zinc is the least noble metal and is highly resistant to the corrosive effects of saltwater. For boats that primarily navigate the sea or other saltwater environments, zinc anodes are the best choice. They offer effective protection for metal components such as the propeller shaft and the stern gear of vessels.

Aluminium anodes: versatile and lightweightt

Aluminium anodes are very versatile and can be used in both saltwater, freshwater, and brackish water. An aluminium anode is lighter than zinc and offers excellent protection against corrosion. Furthermore, aluminium anodes are more environmentally friendly as they contain fewer harmful substances. These are often fitted to boats that navigate in various waters, as they are effective in both freshwater sailing and saltwater.

Can stainless steel and aluminium be used together on a boat?

A common question is whether stainless steel and aluminium can be used together on a boat. Combining different metals, such as stainless steel and aluminium, can lead to galvanic corrosion, especially in saltwater.

It’s important to choose the right anode to prevent this. For example, an aluminium anode can help minimise corrosion by sacrificing itself instead of the aluminium or stainless steel on your boat. The anode absorbs the electrical current and prevents damage to other metal components.

How often do you need to replace an anode?

Over time, an anode will visibly corrode. Regularly checking and replacing anodes is essential for maintaining your boat. A general rule of thumb is to inspect your anodes at least once a year. If you see an anode has lost more than 50% of its mass, you should replace it.

This applies to all types, whether you’re using zinc, aluminium, or magnesium. Failing to replace the correct anode in good time can lead to serious damage to the metal parts of your vessel.

How many anodes do you need for your boat?

The number of anodes you’ll need depends on the size of your boat, the type of water you sail in, the amount of metal components that come into contact with the water, and how a component is fed. For smaller boats, one shaft anode might suffice, whereas larger vessels often require several anodes.

The answer to the question ‘how many anodes do I need?’ depends on factors such as the waterline, the presence of an outboard engine, and the materials used. Also consider what type of anode you need, depending on the water conditions and the materials of your boat.

A general rule of thumb you can use here: waterline length × (beam + draught) gives an indication of your boat’s wetted surface area. The larger that surface, the more anodes you will need.

What should you look out for when fitting an anode?

An anode only works if it makes good contact with the metal it’s fitted to. Make sure the mounting point is free of paint, antifouling or rust before you fit the anode. If a layer of paint or antifouling gets between the anode and the metal, it will break the electrical connection. In this case, the anode will be in place, but it won’t be offering any protection.

Purchase the correct anodes from AB Marine Service

The use of the correct anodes is essential to protect your boat from galvanic corrosion. Whether you’re sailing in fresh, brackish, or saltwater, choosing the right anodes and replacing them in good time will ensure your boat remains well-protected. Make sure you are properly equipped with the correct anodes and thus prevent unnecessary damage to your vessel.