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Clean your diesel engine: follow our handy step-by-step guide

Every boat needs a bit of regular TLC, and that goes for the engine too. Without attention, dirt and build-up can lead to poor combustion, loss of power, and in the long run, damage.

A periodic clean is certainly a good idea, especially when using biofuel. Biofuel can contain more bacteria than conventional fuel, although this isn’t an inherent characteristic of all biofuels. The increase in bacteria in biofuel, particularly biodiesel, is mainly due to its higher organic content and the presence of water. This creates favourable conditions for micro-organisms to thrive. This can lead to bacterial growth in the fuel tank and blockages in the fuel system.

Time to give your diesel engine a thorough clean. In this guide, we’ll explain step-by-step how to treat your engine to a good spruce-up. This way, you’ll avoid costly repairs down the line and can set sail with peace of mind.

Why cleaning a diesel engine is important

Diesel engine pollution often builds up very gradually. You usually only notice it when the power drops a bit or fuel consumption increases slightly. We’re listing five benefits of a clean diesel engine.

Reduction of wear and tear

The more dirt, soot or fuel residue in your fuel system, the more friction and pressure you’ll get. Parts like injectors, the fuel pump and valves will struggle bit by bit. If everything is clean, your engine will last longer.

Improving combustion

The cleaner the engine, the better the diesel combustion. You can tell this by a powerful and regular engine sound, both when idling and when cruising. Usually, it also sails a bit smoother. An experienced skipper notices this almost immediately.

Cutting emissions

If there’s dirt in the engine, you’ll also suffer more from exhaust fumes. This includes fine dust, harmful exhaust gases, and other noxious substances. Therefore, a clean fuel system is better for your boat, the environment, and your own health.

Step-by-step guide: how to tackle cleaning effectively

Fortunately, cleaning your diesel engine isn’t too tricky a job. With a handy step-by-step guide and the right tools, you’ll get a long way. We’ll explain how to clean your diesel engine in a few simple steps.

Step 1: A visual inspection

It starts with a thorough check. See if you notice any oil or diesel residue, if the air intake is clear, and if there’s any soot buildup. The oil level and colour are also worth inspecting. Have you checked the basics? Then it’s time for a proper clean.

Step 2: Use Diesel Cleaner

with Diesel Cleaner. This fluid cleans the Diesel Cleaner. This fluid cleans the entire fuel system. Pour the contents into the fuel tank before refuelling. It improves combustion, optimises fuel consumption, and resolves carbon and soot deposits.

Step 3: Use Injector Cleaner

For an even cleaner engine, we also recommend Injector Cleaner. This fluid cleans the entire fuel system. Pour the contents into the fuel tank before refuelling. It improves combustion, optimises fuel consumption, and resolves carbon and soot deposits.

AB Marine Service’s Recommended Products

We therefore recommend Diesel Cleaner and Injector Cleaner. And while you’re at it, it’s also a good idea to use Radiator Flush to clean your cooling system. This agent cleans blocked coolant passages. You pour it into the radiator and let the engine run for 10 minutes.

Next, it’s time to replace your coolant. Our recommendation is Coolant -38 NF from Kroon Oil. This coolant can be used all year round and offers protection down to -38 °C. The maximum change interval is three years.

Another recommendation is a bactericidal diesel additive. It prevents the formation of bio-slime, rust and blockages in the fuel tank and lines. Just 25 ml per fill-up protects against water-borne micro-organisms such as bacteria and fungi. Ideal in warm, humid conditions or during longer diesel storage.

Common mistakes when cleaning a diesel engine.

We often see the same mistakes being made during cleaning. To avoid these mistakes, we’ve listed them out. That way, you’ll know straight away what not to do.

Don’t leave cleaning too long

The first mistake is quite logical: waiting too long. If you wait until your engine starts sputtering, you’re already too late. You don’t want internal damage to occur that can’t be fixed with cleaning. Therefore, opt for regular maintenance to have minor contamination cleaned.

Using the wrong products

Not every additive is suitable for your engine. That’s why we only recommend thoroughly tested products from A-brands. For instance, incorrect additives can cause damage to your rubbers or seals. Ultimately, you’ll be worse off.

Using not enough/too much

If you use too much or too little of your cleaning product, it’s possible your results won’t be as you’d hoped. So, always follow the recommended dosage on the bottle. More isn’t always better. Therefore, don’t just chuck in a litre of Diesel Cleaner without a second thought.

Fancy getting your diesel engine cleaned? We’re here to help.

Cleaning your diesel engine isn’t overly complicated. With the right products from AB Marine Service, you’re choosing a reliable approach to keep your engine in tip-top condition. This way, you’ll prevent damage, reduce fuel consumption, and sail with peace of mind.

Got any questions about our products or your diesel engine? Don’t hesitate to get in touch, and we’ll put our heads together with you. We’re happy to offer you more tips and expert advice.

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Replacing your diesel engine’s fuel pump: here’s how to do it

opvoerpomp

Is your boat’s diesel engine not running smoothly anymore or is it starting with difficulty? Then a faulty lift pump could be a possible cause. In that case, it’s wise to replace that pump quickly to prevent bigger problems.

In this blog, we’ll explain step-by-step what a fuel lift pump does, how to spot problems with it, and how to sort them out yourself. That way, your engine will run better, you’ll save on fuel, and you’ll avoid costly repairs down the line.

What exactly does a feed pump do?

The feed pump, also known as the fuel pump or fuel supply pump, is responsible for transferring diesel from the fuel tank, via the fine filter, to your engine’s injection pump. The injection pump then sprays the fuel into the cylinders.

Electric or mechanical fuel pump

Globally speaking, there are two types of fuel pumps: electrical and mechanical. In older diesel engines, the feed pump is usually mechanically driven. Newer diesel engines often feature electric feed pumps. These fuel pumps are more consistent, quieter, and more compact.

Why does a fuel pump go broke

A faulty pump can have all sorts of causes. These could include

  • Wear and tear
  • Clogged by dirt
  • Corrosion from water in diesel
  • Overheating under heavy load.

Air bubbles in the system, contaminated fuel, or running dry for too long can also cause damage.

Feed pump Ford Marine, Thornycroft

What happens if the feed pump isn’t working properly?

If the feed pump isn’t working properly, the injection pump (high-pressure fuel pump) will receive insufficient fuel. Consequences include poor or slow starting, reduced pulling power when boating, and in the worst-case scenario, the engine cutting out. Internal wear can also increase if the fuel supply is irregular.

Engine starting problems

Trouble starting your engine, or is it barely starting at all? A faulty feed pump could be the culprit. If the feed pump isn’t pushing enough diesel towards the injection pump, there simply won’t be enough fuel getting into the cylinders. This makes starting difficult, or impossible.

Rough running of the engine

Got an engine that’s juddering, spluttering, or hesitating? Chances are, the fuel supply isn’t as consistent as it should be. This unevenness causes fluctuating engine speeds. You’ll notice it more at higher revs, as the fuel pump has to work harder then.

Air bubbles or fuel leaks

Are you seeing fuel leaks around the feed pump? The pump is probably worn out, or the seals are no longer any good. It’s also possible there’s air in the system. Air bubbles in the lines cause sputtering and a loss of power.

More wear and dirt

Seeing rust, corrosion, or a build-up of grime around the feed pump? The fuel pump has likely seen better days too. It’s also possible that the filter in or near the feed pump has become clogged. Cleaning it in this case is a good idea.

What you’ll need to replace your broken fuel pump yourself

Fancy yourself a bit of a DIY whizz? Then swapping out the fuel pump is a job you can tackle yourself. You’ll need the right tools for the job, mind. Make sure you’ve got the following bits and bobs to hand:

  • A new feed pump that naturally suits your brand and type
  • Socket and spanner sets in the right sizes for your bolts
  • in the right sizes for your bolts. to loosen hose clamps.
  • A bleed key or pump bellows, for bleeding
  • New gaskets or O-rings

A step-by-step guide to replacing your faulty fuel pump yourself

Time to get cracking. We’ll walk you through replacing the fuel pump, step by step. Got any questions? Don’t hesitate to get in touch. We’re happy to help.

Step 1: Turn off the engine and let it cool down.

First and foremost, always prioritise safety by letting your engine cool down. Also, shut off the fuel supply. If you’re working with an electric pump, disconnect the battery terminals too, if applicable. Safety first!

Step 2: Find the fuel pump

The feed pump is usually found between the fuel tank and the injection pump. With a mechanical pump, you’ll typically find the feed pump next to the engine block, complete with a manual lever.

Step 3: Disconnect fuel lines

Dsconnect the lines next. A little diesel might leak out. Relieve any pressure with the hand pump provided before disconnecting the pipes.

Step 4: Unscrew the old pump

Pry the faulty fuel pump out using the correct spanners. Sometimes there might be a gasket or an O-ring in between. Remove that, then give everything a good clean. That way, there’s no grime getting in the way of your new pump.

Step 5: Fit the new pump

Seat your new pump with the correct gaskets and washers. Make sure the pump is level and secure. Then, tighten the bolts, but don’t overtighten them. Also, ensure you tighten the bolts evenly.

Step 6: Bleed the system

Reconnect your fuel lines and use the hand primer or an external bleeding pump to fill the system with diesel. Then, bleed the system. You usually do this via the nipple on the filter or the injection pump.

Step 7: Start the engine

Start the engine and let it idle for a bit. Check for any leaks and that everything sounds as it should. Does it run smoothly? Then the job is done and you’ll no longer have trouble with that faulty fuel pump.

Common mistakes when replacing a fuel pump

To prevent mistakes, here’s a list of common errors. This way, you can avoid them when replacing your fuel pump.

Using the wrong pump model

Not every pump fits every engine. Choose a pump that matches your make and model. If you’re unsure, please feel free to get in touch with us for expert advice.

Reusing old gaskets

Occasionally, DIYers might be tempted to reuse old washers. We always advise fitting new ones. This ensures you don’t end up with knackered parts and everything’s shipshape.

Wrong or too tight fitting

When fitting the pump, it’s important to tighten the bolts by hand, with even pressure. Overtightening isn’t good. Make sure it’s also straight.

Forgot to bleed

Bleeding the system is important after replacing a fuel pump. Air in the system will cause starting problems or a poorly running engine. So, always bleed it thoroughly.

Fuel pump on the blink? We’ll sort it!

Replacing a faulty fuel pump requires precision, a bit of nerve, and the right tools. Order your new fuel pump easily and quickly through our webshop. We have a wide range of models from well-known manufacturers such as Vetus, Volvo Penta, Mercedes, Kubota, and Peugeot.

Replacing a duff fuel pump needs a steady hand, a bit of guts, and the right kit. Get your new fuel pump sorted lickety-split from our online shop. We’ve got a cracking selection from the usual suspects like Vetus, Volvo Penta, Mercedes, Kubota, and Peugeot. Stuck or not quite ready to dive in? Don’t hesitate to get in touch. We’re happy to point you in the right direction. Based on your specific situation, we can usually tell you quickly which feed pump you need.

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Blown head gasket on your boat engine? Here’s how to fix it!

A blown head gasket is always a pain. You might be enjoying a nice boat trip and suddenly see white smoke puffing out of the exhaust. It could also be that your coolant level is dropping faster than usual or getting mixed with your engine oil. Sometimes, you’ll also notice the engine overheating or losing power. In all these situations, a blown head gasket could be the culprit.

We’ll explain why a head gasket is so important, how to spot problems and what you can do about them. We’ll also explain what you can do to prevent head gasket issues in the future.


Why are head gaskets so important?

At first glance, a head gasket might not seem like much: a thin metal plate with openings for cylinders, oil, and coolant channels. But without a good head gasket, no engine will run properly. So, it’s more important than you might initially think.

The cylinder head gasket is a seal between the engine block and the cylinder head. It prevents gases from the combustion chamber from escaping and ensures that coolant and oil passages between the two parts do not leak. It is therefore a crucial part of your boat engine.

How to spot a blown head gasket on a boat?

When the seal is no longer doing its job properly, gases, liquids, and oil can come into contact with each other. You’ll notice this as a change in how the engine performs. We’ve listed five possible signs of a faulty head gasket.

White smoke from the exhaust

If the head gasket is leaking and coolant is entering the cylinders, the coolant will burn along with the fuel. This often results in white smoke coming from the exhaust. So, if you see white smoke coming from your exhaust, your head gasket might be leaking.

Coolant loss

You’re having to top up the coolant more often than usual, and you can’t see any signs of a leak? Well then, it’s highly probable that the coolant is escaping through a blown head gasket and ending up in the combustion chamber.

Oil pollution

A blown head gasket often results in oil and coolant mixing. This can cause the engine oil to turn into a creamy substance. Some people liken it to mayonnaise.

Engine overheating

If there’s a faulty head gasket, air or exhaust gases can also get into the radiator or heat exchanger. This prevents the engine from cooling properly, leading to high engine temperatures.

Loss of power

Because gases can sometimes escape from the cylinders with a blown head gasket, the engine can also lose power. The engine might also run rough or struggle to accelerate.

Causes of a blown head gasket on a boat

A head gasket doesn’t just fail out of the blue. Usually, it’s a combination of factors at play. We’ve listed three potential causes for a blown head gasket.

Engine overheating

Overheating can be both a consequence and a cause of a blown head gasket. We’d go so far as to say it’s the number one cause. When the engine gets too hot, the metal expands under high pressure, which affects the seal.

The wear and tear of the years

With every part of your boat engine, there’s eventually wear and tear. After many years of faithful service, with fluctuations in pressure and temperature, a head gasket can eventually give up the ghost. The gasket is simply knackered.

Incorrect assembly or gasket

It’s also possible that the wrong head gasket has been fitted, or the gasket wasn’t fitted correctly. So always make sure your head gasket is compatible with your engine block and that the fitting follows the instructions in the manual.

What to do if your head gasket’s gone?

If you keep sailing with a blown head gasket, it can lead to bigger problems and, ultimately, hefty repair bills. That’s why it’s wise to act fast if you notice the signs of a potential blown head gasket.

Stop directly with sailing

If you see white smoke, the engine overheating, or oil and coolant mixing, it’s best to stop boating. This will prevent further damage.

Let the engine cool down

Let the engine cool down for a while. Don’t go poking around while the engine is still hot. That would be unsafe. So, have a bit of patience before you get cracking.

Find the problem

Check the coolant level and look at the oil. If the level is significantly low and the oil is discoloured, you’ve probably got a blown head gasket.

Order a new head gasket

Choose a new head gasket to match your engine block. If you have a Ruggerini or Bukh engine, you can order the correct head gasket set from AB Marine Service. For other makes, we’ll refer you to a specialist or supplier.

Fit the new head gasket

Got a knack for tinkering? You can fit the new gasket yourself. If you’re a bit of a novice, it’s best to leave it to a mechanic.

Preventing blown head gaskets in the future

Prevention is, of course, always better than serious damage and high repair costs. If you want to avoid the hassle, we recommend taking a few tips into account. We’ll give you five.

Keep the coolant topped up

First, always ensure there’s enough coolant in the tank. Also, opt for high-quality coolant. This will prevent the engine from overheating unnecessarily.

Check the cooling system

If you want to avoid your head gasket blowing, it’s a good idea to get the radiator, thermostat, and water pump checked now and then. A cooling system that’s working properly will lower the odds of your head gasket giving up the ghost.

Let the engine warm up/strong>

It’s important for every engine to warm up gently. So, don’t go full throttle straight away with a cold engine. That can put too much strain on the gasket. This leads to blown head gaskets, and we want to avoid that at all costs.

Avoid overloading

Cruising at high revs isn’t a good idea either. This increases wear and tear. So, it’s advisable to cruise at a more relaxed pace and avoid running at peak power for too long. This way, you’ll prevent your head gasket from failing, and it’s also better for other engine parts.

Regularly service it

Regularly changing the oil, checking the engine, and addressing minor issues promptly will keep the engine in good condition. So, check the various fluids and make sure there’s no oil in the wrong places. This will prevent problems from accumulating.

Struggling with your packing? AB Marine Service is the place to go

A blown head gasket isn’t the end of your engine. If you spot the problems early, act decisively, and keep up with maintenance, you can avoid bigger headaches down the line. A new head gasket means you’ll be back out on the water, enjoying your boat for years to come.

At AB Marine Service, you’ll find head gasket sets for Ruggerini and Bukh engines. For other makes, we can often arrange parts through our suppliers, but this is always bespoke and not a DIY job.

Order your new head gasket from our shop, or don’t hesitate to get in touch if you’ve any questions. Not sure which head gasket you need? Or perhaps you’ve a query about the repair? We’re here to help with expert advice.

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Installing a boiler on your boat: the clever way to do it

AV010-602431B000003

For many people, a boat is like a second home, but on the water. And just like in your home, you’d rather not be without hot water. Installing a water heater on your boat provides more comfort and is often very practical.

Here’s why an onboard water heater is indispensable for your boat, how one works, and the best way to install it. We’ll also offer advice on choosing the right one for your vessel. Our top recommendations are Webasto boilers.


Why a boat boiler is essential

Most boats come with conveniences like a navigation system, a hob and a small galley. So why wouldn’t you enjoy hot water on board too? We’ve listed eight benefits of having a water heater on board.

Having a nice warm shower

Let’s get a shower started. After a refreshing dip in the morning or a long day sailing in the sun, you’ll want to freshen up. If you’re docked at a marina, you can use the ablutions block. But with a boiler and an onboard shower, you can shower anywhere, just like at home. That’s much nicer than a cold shower.

Wash up with hot water

Even washing up is a doddle with hot water from a boiler. With a small boiler, say 15 or 20 litres, you’ll have enough capacity to get the dishes thoroughly clean. That way, everything stays fresh, even on longer trips.

Washing hands and hygiene

Got some fishing, tinkering or other bits and bobs to do while you’re out and about? You’ll want to give your hands, feet, or face a proper clean up afterwards. And let’s be honest, it’s a lot nicer with hot water than cold.

Doing the laundry and cleaning

Going away for a while and don’t want to have to keep going ashore? With a boiler, you can do small washes or rinse your clothes with warm water. Making soapy water is also a doddle. This way, you can keep the boat, clothes, and much more nice and clean.

Making cooking a lot easier

Making a cuppa or cooking your dinner is also a lot easier when you’ve got hot water on tap. Pop it straight into the pan and your meal will be bubbling away in no time, or you’ll have your tea or coffee brewed in a flash. With a boiler, it’s all as simple as can be, just like in your own kitchen.

Wise use of energy

Many marine boilers work with a heat exchanger linked to the engine’s cooling system. When the engine is running, the water in the boiler warms up by itself. Many models also have an electric element, so you have hot water when you’re stationary and plugged into shore power.

Getting ready for winter is easier

The season’s over and you’re getting the boat ready for winter? Even then, an onboard boiler is a godsend. You’ll have hot water on hand for thoroughly cleaning parts or keeping them frost-free.

Cold water? That’s a thing of the past!

Ultimately, an onboard boiler is an overall upgrade to your onboard comfort. You’ll have all the conveniences and can make guests feel more at home too. With an onboard boiler, you’re increasingly becoming a floating home.

dek van boot met douchekop

How does an onboard boiler work?

A boiler on a boat works fundamentally the same way as one at home: cold water enters the tank, gets heated, and comes out warm. However, there are a few key differences.

At home, heating is usually done by gas or an electric boiler. On board, this happens via the engine’s cooling water system (heat exchanger) or an electric heating element. When the engine’s running, the heat exchanger automatically heats the water in the boiler. If the boat’s in the harbour, the boiler often switches to electricity.

Depending on the size of your boat, you can opt for a compact boiler of, for example, 15 litres or a larger one of 40 litres or more. You connect the water heater to the boat’s water system, with a cold water supply and an outlet to the tap or shower. Often, a pressure pump or hydrophore is needed to ensure the water flows with sufficient pressure.

Step-by-step plan: Fitting a boiler on your boat

Installing a boiler might sound complicated, but with the right preparation and a bit of know-how, it’s perfectly manageable. Just bear in mind that the process can vary from boat to boat. For instance, you’ll need to consider the space in the locker and the diameter of the hoses.

The necessary materials

For installing a boiler on your boat, you’ll need a few things. The following bits and bobs will come in handy:

  • A suitable boiler
  • Hoses and clamps
  • Assembly tools

Step 1: Buy a suitable boiler

It starts with purchasing the right boiler. We recommend Webasto boilers. These boilers are suitable for onboard use and available with a capacity of 15 litres up to 75 litres.

Bear in mind the available space and the weight of the boiler. Assume a fully water-filled boiler. An overly heavy boiler could unbalance your boat.

Step 2: Find the right spot

Keep heat loss to a minimum by keeping the hoses between the engine and the boiler as short as possible. Also, prevent the cooling water circuit from being higher than the expansion vessel of the engine cooling system.

If that’s not possible, equip the cooling water hoses with a bleed nipple at the highest point. Install boilers with the drain tap at the bottom so the contents can be drained.

Step 3: Use the right hoses

Use a high-temperature, high-pressure, coolant-resistant water hose. Use robust, non-toxic hoses for the water hose. Clamp all hoses with stainless steel hose clips.

When it’s all hooked up:

  • Fill the boiler with water.
  • Let the pump run until water comes out of all the taps.
  • Also bleed the hot water side, to prevent air bubbles in the system.
  • Check if hot water is available when the engine is running or when shore power is connected.
AV010-601631QX00003

Choose the right boat boiler at AB Marine Service

Not every boiler is right for every boat. So, it’s crucial to pick the correct one, especially considering the space you’ve got and what you’ll be using it for.

We recommend opting for a Webasto boiler from the Isotemp range. These boilers have been specifically designed for use on boats, ships, and yachts. At AB Marine Service, we supply these high-quality boilers directly from stock.

A durable design with stainless steel

Webasto boilers are made from stainless steel. This makes them ideally suited for operating on water. They last for years, without the tank becoming porous or leaking. Furthermore, they are easy to keep clean.

Compact dimensions

Webasto knows that onboard space is often at a premium. That’s why their boilers are compact. Every centimetre counts. You can often fit a compact Webasto water heater into a locker or under a seat without having to move other equipment.

A powerful heating element

The Webasto boilers cleverly utilise a heat exchanger. When the engine is running, you’ll have hot water in no time. Even when you’re plugged into shore power, the boiler can still provide hot water. This means you’ll practically never be without hot water.

Installing a Boiler? Let AB Marine Service be your partner

Installing a boiler on a boat requires a bit of preparation and know-how. If you’re a bit handy, take on the challenge and bring more comfort and convenience to your second home on the water.

Unsure which boiler would be best for your needs? Or perhaps you’ve got some questions about getting it fitted? Don’t hesitate to get in touch. We’ll gladly help you find the perfect water heater and can offer tips based on your boat’s specific details.

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Efficiently treat your underwater hull for optimal protection

voorkant onderwaterschip schoonmaken

If you own a boat, you’ll know that maintenance never stops. One important part not to overlook here is treating the underwater hull. This part of your boat really takes a battering.

The underwater hull is always in contact with the water, be it fresh or salt. Without treatment, problems like osmosis, corrosion, or stubborn growth of algae, mussels, and more lurk. We’ll explain how to prevent that.


No boat can do without a proper underwater hull

The underwater hull is, in a sense, the foundation of your boat. We’re talking about the part of the hull that sits below the waterline. This makes it susceptible to damage. Think, for example, of micro-organisms attaching themselves to the coating, or corrosion if metal is exposed.

With a polyester hull, you can get blisters and moisture ingress in the gelcoat. This is better known as osmosis. With a steel vessel, rust formation and electrolysis are the culprits. Solutions include a robust paint system and good anti-fouling.

Why it’s important to look after your boat’s hull

If you’re not yet convinced why it’s so important to keep your boat’s hull in good condition, we’re happy to outline a few reasons. Proper treatment extends its lifespan. Without treatment, problems lurk.

Anti-fouling

If your boat’s in still or slow-moving water, you might find it gets covered in mussels, algae, and other sea life. Sometimes, this can even slow you down. A fresh coat of self-polishing anti-fouling could be the answer.

Protection against osmosis and blisters

With polyester boats, osmosis is also a potential problem. water penetrates the gelcoat and causes blisters which can eventually affect the ship’s structure. Prevent osmosis from developing by, for example, applying a protective coating.

Corrosion and rust protection

Rust is a constant worry on a steel yacht or any other metal boat. If left untreated, metal will eventually go, well, rusty. A fresh coat of paint or some epoxy will keep rust at bay and mean you get more joy out of your hull for longer.

Less fuel consumption

When your hull is spick and span, it automatically means less drag in the water. This allows you to reach higher speeds and use less fuel. When anti-fouling is applied correctly, this also saves you money.

Safety and reliability

If your hull has been compromised by osmosis, corrosion, or some other issue, it could put your safety at risk down the line. Regular attention to your underwater hull will ensure you can keep on sailing with complete peace of mind.

Keeping the value of your boat

A boat with an untidy hull loses value. A well-maintained boat without damage or scratches is more appealing to potential buyers. Therefore, keeping your hull in good condition is good for your boat’s value.

man with pressure washer to clean the underside of the boat

Hull maintenance plan

Tackling your boat’s hull yourself might sound like a bit of a chore. However, if you’re a handy sort of chap, with the right approach and a bit of time, you can get quite far.

Step 1: Jet wash and clean the boat

Take the boat out of the water using a boat lift and spray the hull clean with a high-pressure washer. Start at the waterline and work your way down. Remove algae, mussels, and other growth. For stubborn dirt, you can use a polyester or plastic cleaner.

Step 2: Inspect and check the hull

Carefully examine the hull. For fibreglass, check for bumps or blisters (osmosis), and for steel hulls, look for rust and corrosion. Also, inspect areas where the anti-fouling has worn off or is no longer adhering properly. Is the layer worn out? If so, use an anti-fouling remover to safely strip the old paint.

Step 3: Repair and fill minor damage

Right, if you spot any damage or rough patches, you’ll want to sort those out first. Fill any cracks and holes with an epoxy filler suitable for boats. Let that dry thoroughly, then sand the surface smooth again. That way, you’ll have a solid base layer.

Step 4: Degrease and dry the hull

Thoroughly degrease the hull and ensure it’s dust-free. This is crucial for the adhesion of new coats. Allow everything to dry properly before proceeding with primer or anti-fouling. With Impressed Pro degreasing wipes, you can be sure the surface is clean and ready for a new layer.

Step 5: Apply a new layer of the correct thickness

Apply the new coats of paint or anti-fouling. Usually, 2 coats of anti-fouling are sufficient, but with intensive use or saltwater, an extra coat is a good idea. Always observe the drying times specified by the manufacturer. For an extra smooth finish, you can spray the hull instead of rolling it.

Step 6: Regularly check your hull

After the treatment, it’s important to regularly inspect the hull. An annual anti-fouling treatment is usually sufficient. In the meantime, visually check for cracks, blisters, or early signs of rust, so you can tackle problems early.

Besides the hull, the through-hulls are also an important element of the underside of your boat. These are the openings through which pipes, drains, and cooling systems pass. Without proper sealing, water can get in here, and that’s not the intention.

For a proper seal, use sealant that is resistant to prolonged contact with both freshwater and saltwater. At AB Marine Service, we’ve had the best experience with Innotec’s Adheseal Marine.

cleaning the hull

Choose the right kit for your boat at AB Marine Service

The Adheseal Marine has fast skinning, fast curing, and high flexibility. It contains no solvents, meaning it won’t shrink or crack. It’s also isocyanate-free. It’s available in white, black, and brown.

Adheseal Marine by Innotec can be overpainted with virtually all modern paint and lacquer systems. It has strong adhesion to aluminium, steel, wood, stone, glass, concrete and most plastics. Therefore, it’s also a multi-purpose product.

Keep your hull in top condition for a long time

Giving the hull some attention might not be the most thrilling job, but it’s definitely important. It keeps the foundations of your boat shipshape and ensures you can enjoy many safe and confident trips on the water.

When using Adheseal Marine as a sealant, you’ll also make your hull fittings watertight. If you have any questions about treating your underwater hull or about our sealant, please don’t hesitate to get in touch. Our experts will be happy to help you.

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Connecting a Bilge Pump: A Step-by-Step Guide to Safe Installation

With a boat, there are countless ways water can find its way in. Some rainwater often ends up in the bilge. The solution for dampness and dirt in the bilge is a reliable bilge pump.

The bilge is the lowest part of a ship, where the two sides meet to form the keel. This is where water, oil, mud, and other rubbish can collect. You ideally want to keep this area clean and dry.

The solution for dampness and dirt in the bilge is a reliable bilge pump. At AB Marine Service, you’ll find automatic bilge pumps that do the job themselves as soon as there’s water in the bilge. That way, you don’t have to keep an eye on whether pumping is needed.

What a bilge pump does

The bilge pump has a number of functions. Without a bilge pump, your vessel could become heavier, unstable, or sustain damage. In the worst-case scenario, it could even sink your boat. Naturally, we’d rather avoid that.

Pumping bilge water

The main job of the bilge pump is to pump out water that’s ended up in the bilge. This could be rainwater, or water that’s got in through a leak or spray. That’s why a bilge pump is always fitted at the lowest point of the bilge, because water collects there and can be pumped out efficiently.

Protection from oil and grime

The bilge can accumulate much more than just water. Think of small residues of oil, dirt, or even diesel. A strong pump prevents this muck from building up and potentially causing damage. It’s important, however, to regularly check the pump and hoses for blockages or debris.

How does a bilge pump work?

There’s a range of bilge pumps on the market. The key difference is between manual and automatic models.

Manual bilge pump with switch

With a manual bilge pump, you operate the pump yourself using a switch or a control panel. This allows you to decide when to turn the pump on and off. You’ll need to be the one monitoring whether pumping is actually required, though.

Automatic bilge pump with built-in float switch

When a pump has automatic operation, it has a float switch or built-in float. As the water level rises, the float moves up, and the pump switches on automatically. It then pumps out the bilge water until the level drops below a certain point again.

What do you need to connect a bilge pump?

Connecting a bilge pump is a job most DIYers can manage quite well. The aim is a safe and watertight connection for the pump, with no risk of a short circuit. Make sure you have the following bits and bobs to hand:

Connecting a bilge pump: a step-by-step guide/strong>

Right then, time to get that bilge pump wired up. We’ll walk you through it in five straightforward steps. If you’re missing a bit or fancy asking a question, just give our experts a shout.

Step 1: Choose the right spot

Find the location of the bilge pump. You’ll want the pump in the lowest part of the hull, as that’s where all the water will drain. Ensure the pump is securely mounted and easy to install. Allow ample space for the hose and wiring.

Step 2: Connect the hose

Attach the drain hose to the pump. Use one or two hose clamps to create a secure and watertight seal. Route the hose upwards, ensuring the outlet always remains above the waterline. This prevents water from flowing back down the hose.

Step 3: Wiring and Fusing

Connect the pump to the boat’s power supply. Always fit a separate fuse between the pump and the battery to prevent short circuits or overloading. Neatly conceal the wiring and use waterproof connectors or heat-shrink tubing to prevent corrosion.

Step 4: Switch or auto mode

Figure out how you want to run the pump. For manual operation, you’ll connect the pump to a switch or a control panel. If you’re going for an automatic setup, you’ll use a float switch. A lot of bilge pumps give you the option to have both.

Step 5: A thorough test

Run a pre-sail installation test. Pour a controlled amount of water into the bilge and check if the pump activates. Ensure there are no leaks at the connections and that the drainage functions as expected. A test run will prevent unwelcome surprises out on the water.

Practical tips for a reliable bilge pump

For the bilge pump to work reliably, here are a few more tips. We’ve put them in a list for you.

  • Consider placing the pump in a holder or fitting a small shelf beside it. This will stop the pump from getting mucky or sitting directly in any loose debris.
  • Never install wiring without a fuse. Such a simple fuse can save your entire vessel in the event of a short circuit.
  • When selecting a pump, be sure to factor in its capacity. For bigger boats, you’ll likely require a pump with a greater litres-per-hour output.
  • Always use a non-return valve. This prevents the pumped-out water from flowing back and refilling your bilge.

Frequently asked questions about bilge pumps

We regularly get the same questions about bilge pumps. Therefore, we’re providing some answers to such questions. If your question isn’t here, please don’t hesitate to get in touch.

My bilge pump keeps running. What now?

If your automatic bilge pump keeps running, then the float switch is sticking. This can be due to wear and tear or the build-up of dirt or oil. If the pump continues to run, clean it and see if that helps. If not, it’s probably time for a new pump.

Where should the drain hose go?

Ensure the drainage hose always exits above the water level. This allows the water to escape freely. We advise against excessive bends in the hose and suggest using hose clips to prevent any leakage.

Does the pump always have to operate automatically?

No, that’s not strictly necessary. Some people prefer manual control to maintain more oversight. Generally, an automatic pump is considered safer, as it will activate even if there’s a leak and you’re not on board.

How do I know if it’s working without water in the bilge?

Ideally, you should test the bilge pump every few weeks when the boat is in the water. Especially if the boat’s been moored for a while or is connected to shore power. Just chucking a bucket of water into the bilge is enough to see if the pump’s still doing its job.

What do you need for big or small motorboats?

For small motorboats, a standard bilge pump will suffice. On bigger boats, you’ll have a deeper bilge and might need a pump with a higher capacity. In that case, it’s sensible to opt for a bigger, more powerful pump.

Buy a bilge pump and more at AB Marine Service

At AB Marine Service, we’ve got everything you need for your boat. Order your automatic bilge pump with built-in sensor, including all the connection materials you’ll need to get started safely on board. Got any questions? Don’t hesitate to get in touch. We’re happy to help.

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Charging a Lithium battery with a dynamo: how to do it safely and responsibly

LiFePO4 Accu 12,8V/150Ah NG Main Image

When switching to lithium batteries for your boat or motorhome, one question is paramount: how do you safely charge them via the dynamo? At first glance, it seems straightforward. The engine is running, the dynamo is supplying power, and the battery is charging. In reality, it’s a bit more complicated.

Without a proper setup, it’s possible to damage the battery. The dynamo can also become overloaded. Especially for boat and camper owners who are replacing their old lead-acid batteries with lithium systems, we’ll explain the best way to approach this.


Why lithium batteries can’t just be connected to a dynamo

A lithium battery works a little differently from a traditional lead-acid battery. With a lead-acid battery, it accepts less current as it gets fuller, and the dynamo is gradually less heavily loaded. A lithium battery continues to draw a high charging current until it’s almost completely full. This means the dynamo has to run at maximum power for longer.

What’s more, lithium batteries need a precise charging voltage. While a bit of leeway is usually fine with a lead-acid battery, lithium ones will immediately cut out the Battery Management System (BMS) if the voltage strays too high or too low. Standard dynamos and regulators often struggle to control this effectively.

Should the engine speeds or temperatures fluctuate, the dynamo can overheat and the V-belt can slip. Consequently, the battery won’t charge properly. We’ll cover three dangers of directly connecting a lithium battery to a dynamo.

Dynamo overheating

If a dynamo keeps running at full power, it will get hot after a while. Especially when idling, as the dynamo gets very little cooling then. This can eventually cause damage to the bearings, windings and diodes. We’d rather avoid that, of course.

Overheating of the dynamo leads to a gradual process of reduced performance. The dynamo appears to still be working for a long time, but consistently supplies a little less voltage. Eventually, the dynamo will stop working. Proper regulation and protection prevent these problems.

Incorrect charging voltages

A lithium battery requires a stable charging voltage. For LiFePO4 batteries, the correct charging voltage is usually between 14.2 and 14.6 volts, depending on the make and BMS type. A standard dynamo with a built-in voltage regulator isn’t designed to stay within those tight margins. This can result in the lithium battery never reaching a full charge.

It may also be that the voltage rises too much at higher RPMs. If the voltage is too high, the BMS intervenes and interrupts the charging current. This can cause sudden voltage spikes in the vehicle’s electrical system and lead to damage to sensitive equipment or the starter battery. The correct charging profile and a specific voltage are therefore very important.

Dynamo or wiring overload

A lithium battery will keep drawing maximum current. This causes a standard dynamo to overload. Components such as the internal wiring, fuses, and connections aren’t designed for this. Eventually, the V-belt could even burn out.

Especially with boats that have older engines or motorhomes with thin cables running between the engine bay and the battery bank, this is a problem. Therefore, it’s important to have everything in order for the lifespan of your battery and other systems.

Two clever solutions: external charge controller or DC-DC battery charger

Ensuring the dynamo remains protected against overload and overheating can be achieved in two ways: with an external charge controller or with a DC-DC battery charger. We’ll happily explain more about these options for safely and responsibly charging your lithium battery.

Lithium batteries have a low internal resistance, allowing them to draw high currents when charging, especially in more modern vehicles with so-called ‘smart dynamos’. These are controlled by the onboard computer and don’t supply power constantly, meaning charging lithium batteries requires extra care. Therefore, it’s important to choose a suitable battery charger that performs well in different ambient temperatures and prevents the battery from being charged if it’s too cold or too hot.

Charging a lithium battery with an external charge controller

An external charge controller’s role is to replace or control the dynamo’s built-in voltage regulator. The system allows the dynamor to operate at full power, monitors voltage and temperature, and automatically adjusts the charging profile to suit the battery type. It adapts automatically to the conditions.

With an external charge controller like the Mastervolt Alpha Pro, the full output of the dynamo remains available and there’s no risk of overloading. It’s a sound solution, particularly for larger boats or systems with high energy demands.

Charging a lithium battery with a DC-DC charger

A DC-DC battery charger works a little differently. This charger is connected between the starter battery and the lithium battery. This way, the dynamo first charges the starter battery, after which the DC-DC charger controlledly passes current to the lithium battery. The charger determines how much current it allows through and keeps the charging voltage within safe limits. You can also set it with a maximum charging current to prevent overloading.

You can use multiple DC-DC battery chargers in parallel to get more power. This makes them ideal when working with multiple battery banks. They’re also a good choice if you have space and cabling limitations.

Which option suits your situation best?

Every installation is a bit different. When making the right choice when switching from a lead-acid battery to a lithium battery, it’s wise to take into account your current engine, dynamo, battery bank, and usage needs.

Choosing an external charge controller

We recommend opting for an external charge controller if you want to get the most out of your existing dynamo. This solution is particularly well-suited to larger boats with a high energy demand from a substantial battery bank.

Even if you sail for a long time and often, an external charge controller has a clear advantage. Because the dynamo can deliver its full power, it can simultaneously supply power to the battery and other systems without overload.

Choosing a DC-DC battery charger

If you’re after flexibility, for example if you’re working with multiple battery banks or different battery types, then we’d recommend a DC-DC battery charger. The charger can be set to regulate the charging current and voltage itself. This protects both the dynamo and the battery from varying engine speeds.

You’ll also need a DC-DC charger if you plan to add extra battery banks or expand the system later. This is because multiple chargers can be placed in parallel to increase charging capacity. For the DIY enthusiasts among us, this is therefore a sensible and flexible choice. You can also combine and expand different power sources with it. Overloading the dynamo is almost impossible with this setup.

Orion XS 12/12-50A DC-DC acculader Main Image

Charging via a smart dynamo from AB Marine Service

Connecting a lithium battery directly to a standard dynamo, that’s not a good idea. Opt for an external charge controller or a DC-DC battery charger to safely and responsibly charge your lithium battery with a dynamo.

Do you have any questions about your situation? Don’t hesitate to get in touch with us. We’ll be happy to help you make the right choice. That way, you can soon be back on the water without a care, thanks to a modern battery system.

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Breakdown on the water

pech-op-het-water

Failures in your engine, collision with a sandbank, a fuel leak… these and other issues cause major problems while sailing and are the nightmare for many a skipper. You can prepare as well as you can, but it is obviously difficult to arm yourself against the unexpected. Do you have quite a bit of technical knowledge and also the necessary tools with you? Heartwarming! But that does not mean you can actually face all issues.

Prevention is hard, cure is not! That’s why you would be very wise to join our partner Vaarzeker to take out a subscription, which ensures you always get the best assistance!

Even if you are not a member, these counsellors may be able to support you. They are just a phone call away from you! Call +31 85 3038253 if you could use some assistance right now. Please note that if you are not a member, you cannot take advantage of free help and there is a good chance you will have to wait longer. Members of Vaarzeker always have priority!

Safety above all

A breakdown is very annoying, but potentially even dangerous! Before calling in Vaarzeker or any other assistance service, it is vital that you are safe yourself first. Especially in case of a fire, leak or power failure. As long as your fellow sailors and you are not at risk, you can plug a leak, put out a fire or switch off the power. In doing so, never expose yourself or others to unnecessary danger, ensure your safety above everything else and call in experts whenever possible!

Subscriptions

As is the case with many services, you are also in a position to decide how much you pay and thus what exactly your options are. That is, you only get assistance with the most important and common problems when you choose the cheapest subscription. With standard or even complete assistance, that package is of course increasingly magnified so that you are carefree on the water! On top of that, the latter two subscriptions offer a 10% discount to boaters who choose to pay per year instead of per month. The three modules are:

Breakdown Assistance
This module includes:

  • Call-out charges
  • On-board assistance
  • Starting aid for battery problems
  • Throughout the Netherlands except home port

As long as you are ashore, you can count on the most comprehensive assistance from experienced mechanics thanks to Breakdown Assistance. They do their utmost to get you out on the water the same day. Do you also want technical support while on open water? Then read on quickly!

Assistance Standard
If a technical failure occurs while you are on small inland waterways, your vessel will be towed to a safe port. The Wadden Islands are excluded.

This module includes:

  • Call-out
  • Towing off
  • Telephone assistance for technical questions
  • Telephone nautical advice

For a small extra fee, the Breakdown Assistance module is included in this. It is then offered at a 10% discount. Moreover, Assistance Standard is offered throughout the Netherlands, including your home port.

Assistance Complete
Whatever water you find yourself on, you will benefit from a comprehensive assistance package

This module includes:

  • Call-out
  • Towing off
  • Telephone assistance for technical questions
  • Telephone nautical advice
  • Floating after jamming
  • Supply of spare parts
  • Fuel delivery
  • Towing from port to port
  • Removal of objects from propeller

As with Assistance Standard, you can add Breakdown Assistance to this package: in this case, you get a discount of up to 15% on it! Assistance Complete can be used throughout the Netherlands, including your home port.

Carefree boating

When you go out on the water for fun, you always want to be able to count on experts to help you. Got a problem on board? Then you know who you can count on! After making just one phone call, Vaarzeker’s professionals will come to you to solve your problem. Depending on the situation, you can simply sail on to your final destination the same day. Give yourself that peace of mind, become a member and sail for sure.

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Water-lubricated propeller shaft leaks

boatymacboatface

To function, your ship’s propeller shaft runs from inside to outside, through the hull. Of course, this component is built and installed so that your vessel does not fill up with water, but still, your water-lubricated propeller shaft may leak. Naturally, this is a dangerous situation that you want to prevent or remedy as soon as possible. But how does this arise and how do you fix such a problem? Read on to find out why your water-lubricated propeller shaft is leaking and what to do about it.

Water-lubricated propeller shaft leaks: the cause

There is a difference between a grease-lubricated and a water-lubricated propeller shaft seal. Variants from the first category are easy and low-cost to maintain, but grease replacement is difficult. Moreover, some of this ends up in surface water, which is not environmentally friendly.

A grease-lubricated propeller shaft seal is easily converted to a water-lubricated one. You don’t have to constantly lubricate the grease pot and it is much less polluting anyway. But sand grains are capable of causing considerable wear to the sealing rings. And that, in turn, is the basis for a leak!

Furthermore, your engine may be set up a little too flexibly, meaning the packing rings are not sufficiently able to follow the propeller shaft movements. In addition, a leak may be due to stuffing boxes that seal radially and do not adjust to propeller shaft misalignment. Finally, it is possible that the axle itself may wear out and thus let in water.

Water-lubricated propeller shaft leaks: the solution

The bearings of a water-lubricated propeller shaft installation are made of rubber. These may need to be replaced once in a while to prevent or fix leaks, if you already suffer from leaks.

Do you often sail in waters known to be shallow or sandy for other reasons? Then it’s better to switch to a grease-lubricated propeller shaft. Indeed, as we explained above, that sand is going to affect your seal much faster than you would like. You are much less likely to suffer from that with a grease-lubricated system. The downside is that this requires much more maintenance. That is much less the case with a water-lubricated propeller shaft. But periodically checking that all components are still in full working order can never hurt.

Questions?

That comes in handy, because we have answers! Now if you have a problem with your water-lubricated propeller shaft that is not mentioned here, feel free to contact us . Explain the problem to us so that we can provide you with a suitable solution. Besides just a method, we also have the best parts for you, such as a complete propeller shaft seal, a coupling and a grease cord.. You can easily install these yourself. At AB Marine Service, you can only assume the very highest quality, because we do offer it!

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How to connect a boat alternator

Does the indicator light on your dashboard stay on or does the battery not have the energy to start the engine after a while? Then is it time to replace the alternator of the boat engine.

Follow these 3 steps to replace an alternator yourself

  1. Disassembling the alternator
  2. Buying the right alternator
  3. Installing the new alternator

Or go straight to:

With conventional dynamos and alternators, one thick cable runs directly from the plus pole of the battery (Terminal B+) or to the distribution point at the starter motor.

After switching on the alternator, a control light on the dashboard indicates whether the circuit is complete. As soon as you turn on the ignition, it starts to light up until the alternator provides counter voltage while it is running. Is there no signal? Then also check the supply up to the contact L or D+ on the alternator.. You can also simply connect it to mass and see if it lights up.

There are also ‘mass-free’ alternators. This means that the whole installation is free from mass (often the engine block). In this case, these cables must also be disconnected.

Often, the alternator’s AC signal is used to drive the rev counter. This is often indicated on the alternator as W-connection. If your rev counter does not work either, this is another indication that something is wrong.

Dismantling the alternator


Switch off the electrical system and disconnect the battery or mass switch. Check that there is indeed no voltage on the cables and that the charging cable runs to the battery (B+) or distribution point. Disconnect the alternator’s electrical wires. Mark the disconnected wires so that you know where to put them again later. Now the alternator is free from the electrical system. Now take it from the engine. In general, it is attached to the front of the engine by means of a clamping and mounting bracket. Accessibility is not always ideal, especially not in a tight engine space, so it may require some creative socket wrench and extension work. Loosen the belt by releasing the tensioning device (1 & 2). Remove the suspension bolt (3).

Dynamo vrij maken van motor

Buying the right alternator for your boat

On our website you can easily search for the right alternator. The easiest way to find the required alternator is by its number. The number is often printed on a label or engraved on the housing.

You can also search under the category Alternators for the make and type of the marine engine or search by engine type in the search bar. The dimensions and specifications of each starter are shown. The most important measures are in any case dimensions J1 and J2 (in the drawings C and A) and of course the entire suspension design.

At AB Marine service you can buy a (replacement) alternator from:

  • Bosch
  • Delco Remy
  • Denso
  • Duccelier
  • Femsa
  • Hitachi
  • Iskra
  • Lucas
  • Magneti Marelli
  • Magneton
  • Melroe
  • Mitsubishi Motorolla
  • Paris Rhone
  • SEV
  • Valeo
  • Visteon
  • OEM

See also our video: How to find the right alternator for your boat.


Installing the new alternator

The installation of the new alternator is carried out in reverse order to the steps described above. Make sure that all surfaces are corrosion-free and clean. N.B.: Grease is not conductive. You should therefore always grease the material after installation. This acts a protective layer against moisture penetration. For proper protection between the contacts, use contact spray or conductive paste.

Alternators: Codes and facts

Connecting an alternator is not complicated if you know what the codes mean. In all cases, we are talking here about alternating current dynamos.

Code L or D+: Light on dashboard

In most cases, a ship or boat alternator functions quite simply. A light in the dashboard comes on when you turn the ignition key. If the engine is running, this light will be off again. When the alternator is malfunctioning, you can sometimes see the light burn weakly. This means that the dynamo has low capacity and does not provide sufficient counter-voltage, so that current slowly flows and the light stays on (weakly). If the light does not work, the alternator does not start either. This contact is often referred to as L (Light) or D+ (Dynamo+)

Code IG or R: Always voltage for the alternator

The IG or R contact is a switched wire from the ignition switch. The wire supplies voltage directly to the alternator regulator so that it always receives voltage to switch on.

Eenvoudige L en IG aansluiting met T-stekker

Simple L and IG connection with T-connector

Code B+, A or 30: Output voltage

An output voltage and current goes from the alternator to the battery. Sometimes there is a diode separator in between to allow two battery packs to be charged separately. You then divide the flow, as it were, into two parts. We usually recommend the use of a battery splitter relay, as it will take less voltage from the charging voltage.

This outgoing voltage wire is often thicker than the other ones and is generally red. It is designated as B+, A or 30.

Minus sign and code G: Mass point

Anything with a minus sign or G for Ground indicates a mass point and can be connected to the motor or minus cable.

Code W: Tachometer or rev counter boat

Then there is the tachometer or rev counter. The alternator generates an alternating current. Each of the coils (usually 3) receives a Hertz signal that is proportional to the number of revolutions. The tachometer converts this signal into an indicated value.

Alternators: Connection codes per brand

All connection codes per brand are indicated in the picture below. American dynamo models often have a completely different coding than the Japanese and German variants. But basically, you will often find the most important and common codes B+ (battery), D+ (light) and W (rev counter).



More information about the electrical circuit and circuit testing the installation?

While sailing, the battery is charged by the alternator on the engine of your vessel. A battery supplies 12 or 24V. If you want more on-board power, choose a larger alternator that delivers more current. In most cases we can supply an alternator with the same dimensions. Get into contact, please send us the current set-up and as much information as possible. Then we will find the right customised alternator for you.