Author: abmarineservice

You select forward gear, the engine revs climb, but the boat barely moves. Or you hear a rattling from the engine bay that wasn’t there last season. Replacing a reverse gear costs between €350 and €1,950 for parts, but in many cases, the coupling itself isn’t the problem.

In this blog, you’ll read which symptoms belong to which type of gearbox, which three things you should rule out first, and what the costs precisely consist of. This way, you’ll know whether to order a new one or check something simpler first.

What does a reverse gear do on a boat?

You use it every time you moor, without giving it a second thought. A reverse gearbox is the transmission between your engine and the propeller shaft that reverses the direction of rotation, can stop the propeller, and reduces engine speed by a fixed ratio.

Many boat owners are unaware of this last function. The rating plate will show a ratio such as 2:1 or 2.47:1, and this figure determines how many times slower the propeller shaft rotates than the engine. When replacing it, this ratio must be correct, otherwise the gearbox will not match your propeller.

For diagnosis, the type is especially important:

• Mechanical reverse gear. The main shaft and auxiliary shaft are continuously connected via gears, reverse is via an extra gear. There is a small amount of oil in it which must be kept clean.

• Hydraulic reverse gear. A plate clutch is pressed by oil pressure, operated via pistons. Here the oil does the work, so oil pressure and oil level are critical.

The type you have determines what complaints you get with wear. That makes the distinction the quickest diagnostic tool you have.

Reverse gear problems: broken or is it something else?

You hear or feel something, but you don’t know if it’s serious. The symptoms of a worn reverse gear differ by type, and it’s precisely those differences that tell you where to look.

Symptoms of a mechanical gearbox

• Rattling from the engine bay. A rattling noise at idle or when engaging a gear indicates play in the gears or wear of the rotating parts.

• Judder from the gearbox itself. A high, constant tone that follows the engine speed usually comes from the bearing.

• Heavy or jerky gear changes. If the lever feels heavy, first check the cable, as this is a more common cause than the gearbox.

• Cannot engage. If forward or reverse has completely disappeared, something has broken internally and continuing to sail is pointless.

Symptoms of a hydraulic gearbox

• Slip. The engine speed rises, but the boat does not accelerate. With a hydraulic gearbox, this almost always means insufficient oil pressure or worn clutch plates.

• Fewer knots at the same engine speed. If last season you were achieving 6 knots at 1800 rpm and now it’s 5, then the clutch is slipping under load.

• Delayed engagement. A noticeable pause between lever and movement indicates oil pressure building up too slowly.

Why is my gearbox rattling?

Chattering and rattling often don’t come from the reverse gearbox itself. Between the flywheel and the reverser gearbox is the damper plate, a plate with springs or plastic pads that absorbs engine shocks. If these springs or pads wear out, the vibrations enter the drivetrain undamped, and you’ll hear this as rattling at low revs or a clatter when shifting.

Because the damper plate is attached to the reverser gearbox, the noise seems to come from there. If you recognise this pattern, first read how to replace your boat’s damper plate before considering a new gearbox.

Carry out these checks before ordering a new clutch

You’ve recognised the symptoms and are thinking about replacement. However, there are four points that are more often the cause than the reverser gearbox itself, and you can check them all in an hour.

• Oil level and oil type. A reverser gearbox that runs dry wears out quickly and overheats. Too much oil is just as bad, as it builds up pressure. Check which oil your model requires in the manual, as mechanical and hydraulic clutches don’t ask for the same thing.

• The condition of the oil. Does the oil smell burnt, or do you see metal particles on the dipstick? Metal particles mean something is already wearing down internally, and fresh oil won’t be a solution anymore.

• Cable, operation and adjustment. In many cases, stiff gear changes are due to a seized or incorrectly adjusted gear change cable, not the clutch. Feel if the lever moves without resistance when you disconnect the cable at the clutch.

• Engine mounts and alignment. Sagging engine mounts pull the drivetrain out of alignment, putting sideways stress on the gearbox bearings. Therefore, check the alignment of your propeller shaft as well.

There is another cause that is not a defect but a habit. Accelerating before engaging the clutch, or shifting directly into reverse from full speed, puts heavy strain on the plates and gears. Engaging the clutch first and then accelerating extends the lifespan of every gearbox.

If these points are satisfactory and the complaints persist, you’ll be looking at a rebuild or replacement.

Service or replacement: when do you choose which?

The size of your gearbox often determines half the answer. With a small, light gearbox, refurbishment is rarely worthwhile: dismantling, measuring, cleaning, and rebuilding it takes just as many hours as with a heavy gearbox, while a complete used or new unit is relatively inexpensive. The labour costs quickly exceed the price of a replacement gearbox.

Replacement is the logical choice in cases of internal damage, recurring faults, and when you need to get back on the water quickly mid-season.

How much does it cost to replace a reverse gear?

You want to know where you stand before you let someone take a look. The gearbox itself is the biggest item: used reverse gearboxes range from approximately €350 for a small mechanical Technodrive TMC40 to approximately €1,950 for a heavier ZF25 or a Kanzaki KM4a. The majority of the offerings are between €450 and €750.

What determines the price within that range:

• Type and format. A Hurth HBW50 for a 20 hp engine costs €450, a ZF25 for a considerably larger engine €1,950. Hydraulic gearboxes are structurally more expensive than mechanical ones.

• The ratio. The reduction must match your propeller. A 2:1 is readily available, a different ratio like 2.63:1 limits your choice and thus your price advantage.

• New or used. A new gearbox from Technodrive or PRM costs more than a used one from stock, but you get something back for it: a warranty, a known history, and parts that will remain available for years to come. If you sail a lot, the boat is your home or your work, or you simply want to have no worries for years to come, then new is the most peaceful choice.

In addition to the gearbox, these costs will be added:

• Removal and installation. The gearbox needs to be supported and sometimes the engine has to be lifted slightly. In a cramped engine room, this accounts for the majority of the labour time.

• Blanking plate. Include that straight away, because you’re there anyway and a worn plate will ruin your new gearbox.

• Oil and seals. Fresh oil of the correct type should be part of a replacement as standard.

• Alignment after reinstallation. The flanges must be realigned parallel; otherwise, you will immediately put new stress on the new coupling.

Order your parts from us, and we’ll ship for €6.95 within the Netherlands, and for free on orders over €125. New items come with a two-year warranty.

Do the job off-season if you can. In the spring, workshops are full, and you’ll be waiting longer than in november.

Which gearbox is right for your boat?

Replacing a gearbox starts with the nameplate and not the webshop: without make, type, and ratio, you cannot determine which gearbox fits. Browse the selection of used gearboxes, or send us this information and we’ll find it for you:

• Make, type and ratio of your current gearbox. They are on the nameplate on the housing.

• Make, type and power of your motor. This allows us to check if the coupling can handle the torque.

• The symptoms and when they occur. Slipping under load indicates something different to rattling at idle.

• What the oil reveals. Colour, smell, and any metal particles reveal a lot about the internal condition.

Call 0514-745007 or send a message via WhatsApp. With that information, we can tell at once if we have a suitable coupling in stock.

You’re moored up ashore, at the pontoon or quay, the engine is off, but the fridge, battery charger and lights on board are still demanding power. Shore power is the solution: you connect your boat to the marina’s electricity supply and use 230V electricity and power without draining your batteries, and without the extra emissions from a running engine or generator, and therefore also without extra emissions during charging. In this blog, you’ll read all about a shore power connection on your boat: what parts you need for a safe shore power connection, how to safely connect and use shore power step by step, what mistakes to avoid, and what to look out for to prevent galvanic corrosion and short circuits.

What is shore power and why do you use it?

Why shore power is a clever power solution for many boat owners, it’s all about convenience: shore power is electricity, specifically 230V AC, that runs to your boat or ship via the harbour pedestal or pontoon, instead of drawing power from your own batteries. Why shore power doesn’t feel the same everywhere, however, is because each harbour has its own connection point and its own power supply. In short:

• 16A connection. The average marina provides 16A, which equates to a maximum power and capacity of 3.7kW.
• 32A connection. Larger marinas sometimes also offer 32A (7.4kW) for boats with higher power consumption.
• Benefit for your batteries You can switch off the engine, alternator, and generator as soon as you’re moored, and still use your fridge, battery charger, and lights; your alternator won’t need to run extra to recharge your batteries.
• Typical power consumption A refrigerator (approx. 100W), a battery charger (500 to 700W) and lighting together remain well below the 3.7kW of a 16A connection.

Without shore power, you’ll have to run those appliances on your boat batteries, which will then drain them faster.

Which plug and socket do you use at the harbour?

Most marinas use a blue 16A cee plug for the shore power connection. This is the standard industrial shore power plug, recognisable by its round shape, three or five pins, and, depending on the manufacturer, different colours for different amperages. If your marina also has a 32A option, ask the harbourmaster which cee plugs and which shore power socket belong to it, as this varies from marina to marina. Some marinas operate with a fixed connection plan per berth, where the type of socket is already determined before you moor; such a connection plan shows exactly which shore power plug belongs to which berth and which cee plugs are present there.

Shore power versus your ship’s batteries

Without shore power, your onboard equipment draws energy from your ship’s batteries, which you then have to recharge via the engine, a generator, or solar panels. Using shore power prevents this cycle while you’re docked, meaning your batteries are less stressed, charge faster, and last longer. This way, the connection to shore remains the primary power source, rather than your own battery capacity.

What do you need to connect shore power?

For a complete and safe installation, you’ll need five components, which only work together to form a functional system for a well-operating shore power setup. Below, you’ll find what to look out for with each component.

Shore power cable

This cable connects the shore power pedestal to the socket on your boat. Choose a cable specifically made for shore power, preferably with a neoprene outer sheath: this is resistant to outdoor weather and damp conditions, unlike a standard extension lead. A cable with a neoprene outer sheath also remains flexible in the cold, whereas a pvc cable will quickly become stiff and brittle. When purchasing, pay attention to the core thickness (minimum 2.5mm² for 16A) and a length that suits the distance to the shore power pedestal; shore power cables are available in various lengths.

CEE inlet (shore power connection)

This is the shore power socket on board where you connect the shore power cable. You can mount the inlet securely on the hull or in the cockpit of your boat; you can do the mounting yourself or have it done by an installer. In our range, you will find, for example, a CEE flush-mount shore power connection with a swivel cover, which expands the number of sockets on board and protects the connection point from rain and spray as long as no cable is plugged in. Ensure that every socket on board that you power via shore power is connected behind the residual current device.

Battery charger

A battery charger like those from our Victron Battery Chargers range converts shore power to the correct voltage to charge your ship’s batteries, while allowing you to simultaneously use 230V equipment on board. Most battery chargers do not require an additional inverter, unless you also want to use 230V devices on battery power while sailing; in that case, a combination charger and inverter in one unit is practical. If you are unsure whether you need such a battery charger, consider the power consumption of your onboard equipment. The Victron Blue Smart charger operates with a seven-step charging algorithm, like most comparable chargers from other brands, and can be read via Bluetooth using the VictronConnect app, allowing you to see from your phone the status of your batteries and if they are charging.

Earth leakage switch

This switch detects leakage current and interrupts the power supply as soon as a fault occurs. A Residual Current Device (RCD) is mandatory for shore power installations on the water, as shore power involves high voltage and can cause dangerous situations without proper protection. The RCD trips as soon as the leakage current exceeds a set value, de-energising the installation and immediately breaking the connection to the marina’s electricity grid. Choose an RCD that matches the current rating of your shore power connection (16A or 32A) and test it again with each connection; some marinas have their own RCD built into the shore power cabinet.

In addition to the RCD, you will usually also install one or more fuses, each with its own role:

• Main fuse on board Choose a lower value than the harbour main fuse: this fuse interrupts the circuit in case of overload or short circuit, before this leads to damage to your installation.
• Fuse at the battery charger A second fuse close to the battery charger provides additional protection for this component against overload.
• Fuse at the socket outlet A third fuse near the shore power socket prevents a local circuit from becoming overloaded.

The correct rating for each fuse is usually stated on the packaging or in the manual.

Isolation transformer (optional, but recommended)

This component isolates your boat’s electrical system from the shore power source, preventing galvanic corrosion between boats in a marina. A lighter alternative is a galvanic isolator, which blocks small leakage voltages without offering the full electrical isolation of an isolation transformer. An isolation transformer or galvanic isolator is particularly relevant if you regularly moor in the same marina amongst other boats with shore power.

For the shore power cable, cable lugs and other cable installation components, and for the broader Marine Electricals range, you’ll find a complete overview of products in the AB Marine Service webshop. If you’re unsure between two similar products, we’ll be happy to help you choose which products best suit your shore power installation.

Guide: how to safely connect shore power

Follow these seven steps in the correct order to safely connect shore power to your boat.

Before connecting

1. Turn off the shore power group on board with the main switch This way, there will be no voltage on the groups when you plug in later.
2. Turn off the switch or circuit breaker of the shore power box on the quay, if the harbour has one Never plug into a live box.
3. Check the shore power cable for damage Replace a cable with cracks, exposed wires, or a damaged shore power plug before proceeding.

While connecting

1. First, connect the cable to your boat’s shore power socket This way, the live part always remains on the shore, and you’ll never have a live cable end in your hand above the water.
2. Then connect the other end to the shore pedestal and check that the plug clicks firmly into place.
3. Switch on the shore power unit on the pontoon and then the main switch on board Arrange the cable so that it hangs down in a loop for the shore connection, so that rainwater drips off the cable instead of running into your inlet.

After connecting

6. Test the RCD with the Test button The switch must trip immediately; if it doesn’t, the RCD is faulty and you must not proceed.
7. Check that your battery charger and 230V equipment are functioning normally Stay nearby for the first few minutes to notice any strange noises, smells, or heat development.

When disconnecting, you follow the same steps in reverse order: first the main onboard switch off, then the shore power box off, then the plug from the shore pedestal, and finally the plug from the boat.

Safety and galvanic corrosion: what to watch out for?

Why an RCD is mandatory

An RCD is mandatory in the Netherlands for every shore power installation on the water, as electricity and water together pose a direct safety risk. Without an RCD, you run the risk of an electric shock in the event of a leak in the wiring or connected equipment.

What galvanic corrosion is and how it occurs

Besides the risk of electric shock, galvanic corrosion plays a role as soon as your boat is earthed via shore power. Your boat then establishes an electrical connection with other boats in the marina via the shared earthing of the shore power grid. Differences in metal potential between these boats accelerate corrosion on parts such as the propeller shaft, anchor chain, and other underwater metal components.

When do you need an isolation transformer?

A galvanic isolator provides your boat with its own, isolated electrical circuit: you still have an earth connection, but no longer a direct link to other boats via the marina’s grid. If you predominantly moor on shore in your own, permanent berth among other boats with shore power, a galvanic isolator is a wise investment. If you are unsure whether this is necessary for your situation, seek advice from an installer who is familiar with your marina and boat setup.

Which shore power cable and connection are right for your boat?

The correct cable thickness and length depend on the amperage of your marina connection and the distance between the shore pedestal and the boat. Pay attention to these three points when making your choice:

• Cable thickness For a 16A connection, a cable of at least 2.5mm² per core is common; for 32A, you will need a thicker cable to prevent overheating.
• Cable length Choose the length based on the distance to the shore pedestal or quay, with some extra length so the cable is never taut due to swell or tide; shore power cables are available in various lengths, from short cables for a permanent berth to long cables for changing harbours.
• Storage during use A cable that is too short will detach or be damaged by your boat’s movement, while a cable that is too long is difficult to store and is more likely to hang in the water. Never coil a cable that is too long tightly while in use: this restricts current flow and can cause the cable to overheat unnecessarily.

Common mistakes when connecting shore power

We often see a number of mistakes when connecting shore power, and these can be easily prevented with a little preparation.

• Using a standard extension cord instead of a shore power cable An extension cord is not designed for outdoor use in a damp, salty environment and lacks the robust connections of a shore power cable.
• Skipping or not testing the residual current device Without a tested residual current device, you will only notice a leakage current when it already causes dangerous situations.
• Connecting too many appliances simultaneously to a 16A socket A water heater and air conditioning unit together with your battery charger can quickly exceed the 3.7kW of a 16A socket, causing the main circuit breaker or the harbour’s fuse to trip.
• Not taking galvanic corrosion into account Boats that are connected to shore power for years without a galvanic isolator or isolation transformer are more likely to suffer corrosion damage to underwater metal components.

Connect to shore power safely and with the correct parts

When connecting to shore power, the right shore power cable, a functional RCD, and, depending on your situation, an isolation transformer will ensure a safe shore power connection to the harbour or quay’s shore power grid. Take a look at the boot electra product range and the Victron Energy product range from AB Marine Service for shore power cables, connectors, and battery chargers to suit your shore power boat setup and any vessel that is regularly connected to shore power. You can find more background information on boat electrics on the Engineering Blog. Do you have any questions about which components are suitable for your situation? Feel free to contact us, or send us a message via WhatsApp.

On a boat, there are numerous ways for water to find its way in. Whether it’s rainwater, water from the pipes, a leaking propeller shaft, or spray during sailing: some rainwater often ends up in the bilge.

The bilge is the lowest part of a ship, where the two sides meet to form the keel. This is where water, oil, mud, and other rubbish can collect. You ideally want to keep this area clean and dry.

The solution for dampness and dirt in the bilge is a reliable bilge pump. At AB Marine Service you’ll find automatic bilge pumps that do the work themselves as soon as there’s water in the bilge. This way you don’t have to keep an eye on whether pumping is needed.

What a bilge pump does

The bilge pump has a number of functions. Without a bilge pump, your vessel could become heavier, unstable, or sustain damage. In the worst-case scenario, it could even sink your boat. Naturally, we’d rather avoid that.

Pumping water out of the bilge

The main job of the bilge pump is to pump out water that’s ended up in the bilge. This could be rainwater, or water that’s got in through a leak or spray. That’s why a bilge pump is always fitted at the lowest point of the bilge, because water collects there and can be pumped out efficiently.

Protection against oil and debris

The bilge can accumulate much more than just water. Think of small residues of oil, dirt, or even diesel. A strong pump prevents this muck from building up and potentially causing damage. It’s important, however, to regularly check the pump and hoses for blockages or debris.

How does a bilge pump work?

There’s a range of bilge pumps on the market. The key difference is between manual and automatic models.

Manual bilge pump with switch

With a manual bilge pump, you operate the pump yourself using a switch or a control panel. This allows you to decide when to turn the pump on and off. You’ll need to be the one monitoring whether pumping is actually required, though.

Automatic bilge pump with built-in float

When a pump has automatic operation, it has a float switch or built-in float. As the water level rises, the float moves up, and the pump switches on automatically. It then pumps out the bilge water until the level drops below a certain point again.

What do you need to connect a bilge pump?

Connecting a bilge pump is a job most DIYers can manage quite well. The aim is a safe and watertight connection for the pump, with no risk of a short circuit. Make sure you have the following bits and bobs to hand:

• A suitable bilge pump
• A switch or control panel
• Wiring tools
• Sturdy cables
  
• A fuse
• Hose clamps
• A cooling water hose
• A battery connection

Connecting the bilge pump: step-by-step explanation

Right then, time to get that bilge pump wired up. We’ll walk you through it in five straightforward steps. If you’re missing a bit or fancy asking a question, just give our experts a shout.

Step 1: Choose the right location

Find the location of the bilge pump. You’ll want the pump in the lowest part of the hull, as that’s where all the water will drain. Ensure the pump is securely mounted and easy to install. Allow ample space for the hose and wiring.

Step 2: Connect the hose

Attach the drain hose to the pump. Use one or two hose clamps to create a secure and watertight seal. Route the hose upwards, ensuring the outlet always remains above the waterline. This prevents water from flowing back down the hose.

Step 3: Wiring and fuse

Connect the pump to the boat’s power supply. Always fit a separate fuse between the pump and the battery to prevent short circuits or overloading. Neatly conceal the wiring and use waterproof connectors or heat-shrink tubing to prevent corrosion.

Step 4: Switch or automatic mode

Figure out how you want to run the pump. For manual operation, you’ll connect the pump to a switch or a control panel. If you’re going for an automatic setup, you’ll use a float switch. A lot of bilge pumps give you the option to have both.

Step 5: A thorough test

Run a pre-sail installation test. Pour a controlled amount of water into the bilge and check if the pump activates. Ensure there are no leaks at the connections and that the drainage functions as expected. A test run will prevent unwelcome surprises out on the water.

Practical tips for a reliable bilge pump

For the bilge pump to work reliably, here are a few more tips. We’ve put them in a list for you.

• Consider placing the pump in a holder or fitting a small shelf beside it. This will stop the pump from getting mucky or sitting directly in any loose debris.
• Never install wiring without a fuse. Such a simple fuse can save your entire vessel in the event of a short circuit.
• When selecting a pump, be sure to factor in its capacity. For bigger boats, you’ll likely require a pump with a greater litres-per-hour output.
• Always use a non-return valve. This prevents the pumped-out water from flowing back and refilling your bilge.

Frequently asked questions about bilge pumps

We regularly get the same questions about bilge pumps. Therefore, we’re providing some answers to such questions. If your question isn’t here, please don’t hesitate to get in touch.

My bilge pump keeps running. What should I do?

If your automatic bilge pump keeps running, then the float switch is sticking. This can be due to wear and tear or the build-up of dirt or oil. If the pump continues to run, clean it and see if that helps. If not, it’s probably time for a new pump.

Where should the discharge hose lead?

Ensure the drainage hose always exits above the water level. This allows the water to escape freely. We advise against excessive bends in the hose and suggest using hose clips to prevent any leakage.

Does the pump always have to operate automatically?

No, that’s not strictly necessary. Some people prefer manual control to maintain more oversight. Generally, an automatic pump is considered safer, as it will activate even if there’s a leak and you’re not on board.

How do I know if it’s working without water in the bilge?

Ideally, you should test the bilge pump every few weeks when the boat is in the water. Especially if the boat’s been moored for a while or is connected to shore power. Just chucking a bucket of water into the bilge is enough to see if the pump’s still doing its job.

What do you need for large or small motorboats?

For small motorboats, a standard bilge pump will suffice. On bigger boats, you’ll have a deeper bilge and might need a pump with a higher capacity. In that case, it’s sensible to opt for a bigger, more powerful pump.

Buy a bilge pump and more at AB Marine Service

At AB Marine Service, we have everything your boat needs. Order your automatic bilge pump with built-in sensor, including all the connection materials you need to get started safely on board. Do you have any questions? Feel free to get in touch. We’re happy to help.

Many boat owners have a Volvo Penta engine. That’s an excellent choice, but sometimes the water pump can start to leak. Are you experiencing a leaking Volvo Penta water pump? Then you’ve come to the right place. A leaking water pump can cause serious engine damage if not addressed promptly. Especially if you regularly sail in saltwater, you can eventually experience wear, contamination, or a defect in the cooling system. In this article, we will explain how these problems arise, what to look out for, and how to resolve everything with top-quality parts.

Common issues with impeller pumps

The water pump is a crucial part of the cooling system of your Volvo Penta engine. The water pump ensures that cooling water is pumped through the engine, preventing it from overheating. Inside the water pump is an impeller, a fan with flexible rubber blades, which circulates the cooling water.

The water pump and impeller are constantly exposed to water, dirt and temperature fluctuations. Over time, the water pump of a Volvo Penta engine can start to leak. Common causes of leakage include:

• Wear of the shaft seal: The seal prevents water from running into the engine along the rotating shaft. In an old water pump, extensive use in saltwater, or insufficient water lubrication, the shaft seal can wear out. If the water seal is not replaced quickly, the pump shaft can corrode and water can get into the engine oil.
• Clogged weed filter or cooling water supply: A blocked weed filter can prevent seawater from reaching the pump. This causes the impeller to run without sufficient water, leading to overheating and wear.
• Corrosion in the pump housing: Rust and wear can cause metal parts of the casing to deform, preventing O-rings and gaskets from sealing properly and allowing water to leak in through small cracks.

These causes can lead to the water pump leaking and it’s important to intervene promptly. In the following section, you’ll learn how to recognise a leak.

If the pump no longer has sufficient output, first check the following:

• Worn impeller: The impeller forces cooling water through the pump and can wear out or dry out over time. This can cause leakage through the housing or the drain hole of the water pump.
• Broken impeller: A vane can break off or come loose from an old impeller. Rubber particles can enter the cooling system and block hoses, valves, or water pipes, leading to increased wear.

 

Pay attention to these signs on various Volvo Penta engines

A leaking water pump can often be recognised by various signs. By recognising them in time, you can prevent greater damage to your engine. Also, always check if there is a strong stream of cooling water coming from the exhaust; this indicates a well-functioning impeller.

Five engine warnings are:

• Water drips or a puddle at the pump: Are there any drips or even a small puddle under the engine? Check if water is escaping from the drain hole, lid, or seal. This water loss is often the first sign of a problem with the pump.
• Unusual noises from the water pump: If you hear whining, grinding, or tapping noises, this could mean a bearing is worn or a shaft has seized. This also increases the chance of leakage.
• Overheated engine or warning light: If the coolant flow decreases, the engine will overheat faster. You will notice this through a loss of power and possibly a warning light illuminating.
• Foul smells from standing water: With a prolonged leak, water will accumulate around the engine. Standing coolant in the bilge can cause an unpleasant odour.
• Water in the engine oil: If the oil is creamy and starts to look like mayonnaise, water has got in. This water can enter the crankcase, which reduces lubrication and can lead to serious engine damage.

If you recognise any of these signs, it’s important to act quickly. In the next section, you’ll read how to solve the problem.

Solutions for leaks on Volvo Penta engines

Leaks from a Volvo Penta engine’s water pump are often caused by a faulty seal or a worn impeller. The seal, or shaft seal, prevents water from running along the rotating shaft into the engine. Over time, these parts can wear out, causing leaks. In many cases, the entire pump or a complete overhaul kit including the seal and shaft needs to be replaced. Sometimes the pump needs to be dismantled to properly assess the problem.

Have you noticed your water pump is leaking? Then it’s time to resolve this issue. We have outlined a number of steps for you and would like to refer you to our overhaul kits, which you can find on the product page for each specific: Volvo Penta impeller pump or look for complete Volvo Penta service kits for the entire engine maintenance.

Step 1: Stop the engine

You don’t want to sail on with a leaking water pump. Turn off the engine as soon as possible and let it cool down completely before you start your inspection.

Step 2: Check the water pump

Map out where things could go wrong. See where the water is coming from, look for signs of rust or wear and check the pump housing, the seal, the drain hole, the O-ring, and the hoses around the pump. Also, check the engine block for water loss. Don’t forget the impeller either.

Step 3: Replace the impeller

Is the impeller the culprit? If so, you can replace it. Fit a new impeller with plenty of lubricant and always replace the gasket or O-ring to prevent leaks. Note that some parts, such as seals, need to be pressed in for proper operation and sealing. At AB Marine Service, we have the right impeller for every Volvo Penta engine.

Step 4: Replace other parts

Is it not the impeller or are you still experiencing problems after replacing the impeller? Then look at other parts. The seals or shaft seals may be worn. Often these seals and shaft seals are identical in shape and specifications, but they are fitted in reverse of each other. You can also order these parts easily and quickly from AB Marine Service.

Step 5: Replace the water pump or repair kit

If the shaft is worn or the pump housing is pitted or scored, it is wiser to opt for a new pump. Keep in mind that replacing the water pump may depend on how the engine is installed, which affects accessibility and the dismantling of parts. Also, pay attention to purchasing the correct connections and hoses. You are also in the right place with us for a new water pump or a reconditioning kit.

By following these steps, you can effectively resolve water pump leaks on your Volvo Penta engine. In the next section, you’ll learn how to prevent future leaks.

How do I prevent future leaks?

Good maintenance can prevent a leaking water pump. We give you some tips to keep your Volvo Penta engine in good condition:

1. Regularly inspect everything: It is advisable to check your engine at least once a season. For example, look at the water pump, the impeller and seals. Look for signs of wear, rust or small leaks. Also check the waterline, as this is important for assessing the cooling system and detecting potential water intake problems. This gives peace of mind, certainty and the opportunity to act early.
2. Replace the impeller in good time: We recommend replacing the impeller annually or after 200 running hours and checking the housing. Even if the impeller still looks good, the rubber may have lost its flexibility. Proactively replacing the impeller prevents many potential problems. If you are missing impeller blades, also consider that they have entered the cooling system and are likely still somewhere in the system.
3. Keep your weed filter clean: Good flow is of great importance for every water pump. Check now and then to see if your weed filter is not clogged and check hoses and water pipes for blockages. This will extend the lifespan of all parts.

With these tips, you can keep your cooling system in top condition and reduce the risk of leakage. In the final part, you’ll read how to solve problems with top-quality parts.

Resolve all issues with A-grade parts

A leaking water pump is no fun, but with parts from AB Marine Service, you can resolve it expertly. In our webshop, you’ll find water pumps, impellers, seals, shaft seals, and more for various Volvo Penta engines.

Please note: the exact procedure for repairing a water pump varies depending on the engine model. Therefore, always mention your engine’s serial number when searching for parts, so we can help you choose the correct product.

Leaking seals can allow water to pass through, which can lead to water in the engine oil. A new impeller is relatively inexpensive compared to the cost of an overheated engine or a damaged cylinder head. If you find water in the oil, the water pump may be the cause, but also check other potential causes such as the cylinder head gasket. The story that water in oil is always caused by the water pump is not true; get properly informed.

Do you have a question or do you need help at the location where your boat is moored, for example in the harbour or at your berth? Please feel free to contact us. We will be happy to help you find the right parts. This way you can get back on the water carefree with a reliable cooling system.

If you have a marine diesel, you’ll know: maintenance not only determines how smoothly the engine runs, but also how reliable it remains. Yet, we see with boat owners (for example, with a Volvo Penta) that one maintenance step is regularly skipped or remains a bit vague: flushing the engine.

Flushing can help loosen contaminants and deposits in the oil system, particularly in older engines, when there’s uncertainty about their maintenance history, or if the engine frequently idles. In this blog, we’ll explain what engine flushing is, when you should or shouldn’t do it, and what it generally costs.

What is engine flushing?

Engine flushing is the cleaning of the internal oil system. You add a special cleaning agent to the old engine oil, then run the engine briefly according to the product’s instructions, and then drain the oil. The aim is to loosen sludge and accumulated deposits from the crankcase and oil channels, so that this contamination is removed with the old oil. Afterwards, you replace the oil filter and fill with new oil.

On marine diesels, you sometimes see varnish deposits: a thin, sticky film that can range in colour from golden to brown. This can be caused not only by a engine not reaching its operating temperature but also by extended oil change intervals, a lot of idling/low-load running, prolonged periods of inactivity, and contamination (such as water or a bit of diesel in the oil). This deposit can impair lubrication and cause parts to move less smoothly. With heavy contamination (sludge), there’s even a risk that oil passages or a strainer could become partially blocked, which is why flushing is something you undertake deliberately and properly.

When is it advisable to flush an engine?

You don’t need to flush your engine with every service. However, in some cases, it has clear advantages. We’ll list those cases for you.

When the engine doesn’t run much

Boat engines that run infrequently often benefit from a flush. This is because they don’t often reach operating temperature, and the stagnant oil ages. This can lead to contamination, (partial) blockages, and the formation of acids and ‘black sludge’ in the crankcase. A flush can reduce this.

When the engine idles a lot

Also when the engine primarily runs at idle, the system doesn’t always reach an optimal temperature. This promotes oxidation of the engine oil and lacquer deposits. This, therefore, affects lubrication and the oil’s performance. In cases of heavy soiling, it can even (partially) block oilways.

When the engine has direct cooling

In the case of direct-cooled diesel engines, they often run cooler than closed systems. This gives dirt and the formation of ‘black sludge’ more of a chance. For direct-cooled engines, it can therefore be advisable to flush them slightly more often, especially if the engine runs at low load a lot or the maintenance history is unclear.

When the maintenance history is unknown

Perhaps you’ve bought a boat with an unclear maintenance history. In that case, the oil might not always have been changed on time. A flush reduces the risk of hidden contamination in the engine block and ensures a fresh start.

When the engine oil is old

If engine oil remains in the block for too long, it loses its lubricating and cleaning properties. Additives become depleted, dirt can accumulate, and acids may start to form. This leads to increased wear on components such as the bearings.

Should you have further doubts about the engine’s condition, it can also be helpful to follow a step-by-step guide for cleaning an diesel engine. Also in the case of a smoking diesel engine solutions are possible.

In what ways can you flush an engine?

There are several ways to flush an engine. Depending on the extent of the deposits, you can opt for using a cleaning agent, flushing with a standard flushing oil, or flushing with a more powerful flushing oil. We will cover these three options.

Add Oil System Flush to used oil

The most popular and cost-effective way to flush your engine is with a cleaning agent. We recommend Oil System Flush. This is a concentrated cleaner that you add to the old, warm engine oil before draining it.

This cleaner mixes with the oil and helps to loosen dirt, varnish deposits and ‘black sludge’ from engine parts, so they are drained away with the old oil. It helps to neutralise acid residues in the oil and is suitable for both petrol and diesel engines. Oil System Flush typically works within 5 to 15 minutes.

Oil System Flush is a good choice during a regular oil change. You can consider it a preventive measure for light to moderate contamination. Afterwards, you change the oil and filter so the system runs again with clean oil.

Step-by-step guide for using Oil System Flush

Always follow the instructions on the packaging and do not exceed the recommended running time.

1. Let the engine run until warm.
2. Switch off the engine.
3. Add Oil System Flush to the oil.
4. Let the engine idle.
5. Switch off the engine.
6. Drain the warm, old oil.
7. Replace the oil filter.
8. Fill the engine with fresh oil.

Flushing the engine with Flushing Oil when internally contaminated

If there is internal contamination, it is advisable to go a step further. Then we recommend Flushing Oil. The favourable choice of viscosity, high-quality base oils and special detergent and dispersant additives make Flushing Oil extremely effective.

Flushing Oil contains additives to prevent wear, corrosion, and foaming. It is also suitable for use when the old engine Oil contains a lot of condensation or white sludge. The recommended operating time is typically around 20 to 30 minutes for both diesel and petrol engines.

Flushing Oil is a good choice when there is significant internal contamination. It cleans more intensively than a cleaning agent added to the old oil. You can also use it before switching to a different or higher quality oil.

Step-by-step guide for using Flushing Oil

Beforehand, check that the engine has sufficient oil pressure and only run the engine at idle during flushing.

1. Let the engine run until warm.
2. Switch off the engine.
3. Drain the warm, old oil.
4. Pour Flushing Oil into the empty engine.
5. Let the engine idle.
6. Switch off the engine.
7. Drain the warm flushing oil.
8. Replace the oil filter.
9. Top up the engine with new engine oil.

Heavy contamination? Choose Flushing Oil Pro and Neutralizer Oil Pro

For a professional cleaning of heavily soiled engines, it is advisable to opt for a thorough approach with Flushing Oil Pro and Neutralizer Oil Pro. Thanks to Flushing Oil Pro, you can tackle deposits, ‘black sludge’, and more like never before.

For a thorough cleaning of heavily soiled engines, you can opt for Flushing Oil Pro in combination with Neutralizer Oil Pro. Flushing Oil Pro has been developed to loosen heavy deposits and ‘black sludge’ in engines with severe internal contamination.

Because Flushing Oil Pro is even stronger than regular Flushing Oil, it’s important to also rinse with Neutralizer Oil Pro after using Flushing Oil Pro. This product has been specially developed to completely remove any residue from the flushing agent and clean the engine.

This combination of products is recommended when there is heavy contamination and no oil change has taken place for a long time. Changing the oil in combination with the flushing process often prevents costly repairs.

Step-by-step guide for using Flushing Oil Pro and Neutralizer Oil Pro

1. Let the engine run until warm.
2. Switch off the engine.
3. Drain the warm oil.
4. Pour Flushing Oil Pro into the empty engine.
5. Let the engine idle.
6. Switch off the engine.
7. Drain the warm flushing oil.
8. Replace the oil filter.
9. Pour Neutralizer Oil Pro into the empty engine.
10. Let the engine idle.
11. Switch off the engine.
12. Tap again.
13. Replace the oil filter again.
14. Top up the engine with new engine oil.

What are the costs of flushing an engine?

Do you choose a cleaning agent like Oil System Flush? This works out at about €17 for a 310ml bottle. One bottle typically allows you to treat 4 to 6 litres of oil. You can add the costs of new oil and a new oil filter to this.

Taking it a step further with Flushing Oil? Then a 1-litre bottle costs around 14 euros. For a professional clean, opt for Flushing Oil Pro and Neutralizer Oil Pro. Flushing Oil Pro costs around 80 euros and Neutralizer Oil Pro around 68 euros.

Flushing almost always offers significant benefits and better performance when it comes to oil consumption. If you have it done by a professional mechanic, you will naturally also have to factor in labour costs.

Clearing out ‘black sludge’? Order everything from AB Marine Service

In the case of a dirty engine, flushing is necessary. It ensures a clean engine with better lubrication, prevents increased wear, and extends the engine’s lifespan. It is particularly necessary for engines that idle or do not reach operating temperature, to remove deposits.

Do you also want to keep your engine in optimal condition? With us, you can order everything you need to get this job done. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact us. We’re happy to help.

With a boat, there are countless ways water can find its way in. Some rainwater often ends up in the bilge. The solution for dampness and dirt in the bilge is a reliable bilge pump.

The bilge is the lowest part of a ship, where the two sides meet to form the keel. This is where water, oil, mud, and other rubbish can collect. You ideally want to keep this area clean and dry.

The solution for dampness and dirt in the bilge is a reliable bilge pump. At AB Marine Service, you’ll find automatic bilge pumps that do the job themselves as soon as there’s water in the bilge. That way, you don’t have to keep an eye on whether pumping is needed.

What a bilge pump does

The bilge pump has a number of functions. Without a bilge pump, your vessel could become heavier, unstable, or sustain damage. In the worst-case scenario, it could even sink your boat. Naturally, we’d rather avoid that.

Pumping bilge water

The main job of the bilge pump is to pump out water that’s ended up in the bilge. This could be rainwater, or water that’s got in through a leak or spray. That’s why a bilge pump is always fitted at the lowest point of the bilge, because water collects there and can be pumped out efficiently.

Protection from oil and grime

The bilge can accumulate much more than just water. Think of small residues of oil, dirt, or even diesel. A strong pump prevents this muck from building up and potentially causing damage. It’s important, however, to regularly check the pump and hoses for blockages or debris.

How does a bilge pump work?

There’s a range of bilge pumps on the market. The key difference is between manual and automatic models.

Manual bilge pump with switch

With a manual bilge pump, you operate the pump yourself using a switch or a control panel. This allows you to decide when to turn the pump on and off. You’ll need to be the one monitoring whether pumping is actually required, though.

Automatic bilge pump with built-in float switch

When a pump has automatic operation, it has a float switch or built-in float. As the water level rises, the float moves up, and the pump switches on automatically. It then pumps out the bilge water until the level drops below a certain point again.

What do you need to connect a bilge pump?

Connecting a bilge pump is a job most DIYers can manage quite well. The aim is a safe and watertight connection for the pump, with no risk of a short circuit. Make sure you have the following bits and bobs to hand:

• Een geschikte bilgepomp
• Een schakelaar of schakelpaneel
• Wiring tools
• Sturdy cables
• A fuse
• Hose clamps
• Een afvoerslang
• A battery connection

Connecting a bilge pump: a step-by-step guide/strong>

Right then, time to get that bilge pump wired up. We’ll walk you through it in five straightforward steps. If you’re missing a bit or fancy asking a question, just give our experts a shout.

Step 1: Choose the right spot

Find the location of the bilge pump. You’ll want the pump in the lowest part of the hull, as that’s where all the water will drain. Ensure the pump is securely mounted and easy to install. Allow ample space for the hose and wiring.

Step 2: Connect the hose

Attach the drain hose to the pump. Use one or two hose clamps to create a secure and watertight seal. Route the hose upwards, ensuring the outlet always remains above the waterline. This prevents water from flowing back down the hose.

Step 3: Wiring and Fusing

Connect the pump to the boat’s power supply. Always fit a separate fuse between the pump and the battery to prevent short circuits or overloading. Neatly conceal the wiring and use waterproof connectors or heat-shrink tubing to prevent corrosion.

Step 4: Switch or auto mode

Figure out how you want to run the pump. For manual operation, you’ll connect the pump to a switch or a control panel. If you’re going for an automatic setup, you’ll use a float switch. A lot of bilge pumps give you the option to have both.

Step 5: A thorough test

Run a pre-sail installation test. Pour a controlled amount of water into the bilge and check if the pump activates. Ensure there are no leaks at the connections and that the drainage functions as expected. A test run will prevent unwelcome surprises out on the water.

Practical tips for a reliable bilge pump

For the bilge pump to work reliably, here are a few more tips. We’ve put them in a list for you.

• Consider placing the pump in a holder or fitting a small shelf beside it. This will stop the pump from getting mucky or sitting directly in any loose debris.
• Never install wiring without a fuse. Such a simple fuse can save your entire vessel in the event of a short circuit.
• When selecting a pump, be sure to factor in its capacity. For bigger boats, you’ll likely require a pump with a greater litres-per-hour output.
• Always use a non-return valve. This prevents the pumped-out water from flowing back and refilling your bilge.

Frequently asked questions about bilge pumps

We regularly get the same questions about bilge pumps. Therefore, we’re providing some answers to such questions. If your question isn’t here, please don’t hesitate to get in touch.

My bilge pump keeps running. What now?

If your automatic bilge pump keeps running, then the float switch is sticking. This can be due to wear and tear or the build-up of dirt or oil. If the pump continues to run, clean it and see if that helps. If not, it’s probably time for a new pump.

Where should the drain hose go?

Ensure the drainage hose always exits above the water level. This allows the water to escape freely. We advise against excessive bends in the hose and suggest using hose clips to prevent any leakage.

Does the pump always have to operate automatically?

No, that’s not strictly necessary. Some people prefer manual control to maintain more oversight. Generally, an automatic pump is considered safer, as it will activate even if there’s a leak and you’re not on board.

How do I know if it’s working without water in the bilge?

Ideally, you should test the bilge pump every few weeks when the boat is in the water. Especially if the boat’s been moored for a while or is connected to shore power. Just chucking a bucket of water into the bilge is enough to see if the pump’s still doing its job.

What do you need for big or small motorboats?

For small motorboats, a standard bilge pump will suffice. On bigger boats, you’ll have a deeper bilge and might need a pump with a higher capacity. In that case, it’s sensible to opt for a bigger, more powerful pump.

Buy a bilge pump and more at AB Marine Service

At AB Marine Service, we’ve got everything you need for your boat. Order your automatic bilge pump with built-in sensor, including all the connection materials you’ll need to get started safely on board. Got any questions? Don’t hesitate to get in touch. We’re happy to help.

Getting your boat ready for winter is always important, whether you’re keeping it in the water or storing it ashore. With AB Marine Service’s winter Check, you can be sure your boat is fully prepared for winter and you’ll be back out on the water enjoying it again sooner when the boating season starts. You get your boat ready when you’re no longer going to use it this season. Exactly when this is will, of course, vary from person to person. Most boat owners get their boats winter-ready in October. Getting your boat ready for winter consists of 6 steps. In this article, you’ll find the 6 steps to get your boat winter-ready, the necessary products, and all the information in pdf format so you can easily save it.

1. The engine
2. Technical parts
3. Water supply
4. The hull and the deck
5. Sailing boat
6. Equipment
7. Required products
8. Download the manual

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1. The engine

At the end of the boating season, it’s crucial to winterise your boat’s engine. Don’t skip this step, as your engine could otherwise suffer significant damage. To begin, it’s important to know whether your boat has an open or closed cooling system. A closed cooling system is filled with coolant. Not much can go wrong with this system. Do you have an open cooling system? In this case, water from the waterway is used to cool the engine. Absolutely no water must remain in the engine over winter. Follow the next steps to get your engine winter-ready.

SUPPLIES:

• Antifreeze

DURATION:
Average 15 minutes

STEP 1:
Close the water inlet valve. Do you not have a draining valve? If not, make sure to blow the water out of the valve before closing it. A valve with water in the ball will otherwise still break.

STEP 2:
Unscrew the weed filter.

STEP 3:
Ensure there is absolutely no water left in the engine. Look in the manual for the drain points. These points are often found on the side of the engine and underneath the manifolds.

STEP 4:
Is all the water out of the system? If so, you can proceed to the next step. You can optionally blow out the system with compressed air first before continuing.

STEP 5:
Run the engine while you slowly pour antifreeze into the weed filter, or place the supply hose into the jerrycan with antifreeze and then start the engine. Switch off the engine when antifreeze starts flowing from the exhaust of the cooling water system and catch the liquid in a bucket. Do not let it enter the waterway, as antifreeze is very harmful to the environment. Alternatively, use our biodegradable antifreeze.

STEP 6:
For boats that remain in the water over winter, the valve must also be filled with antifreeze. You can do this by filling the weed filter with antifreeze and opening and closing the inlet valve once, so that antifreeze seeps into the ball valve. Or even better, blow air into it and seal the valve under pressure so that only air is present.
And note, for boats that are ashore, keep the valve open to drain all water from the ball valve!

STEP 7:
Change the engine oil and replace the oil filter and the fuel filter. Diesel and fuel attract water. After the sailing season, it is advisable to replace these with new oil and filters to drain moisture in advance. New oil also protects the engine better due to the various additives.

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2. Technical parts

After winterising the engine, it’s time for the technical aspects. During this step, we’ll cover the gas and electrical supplies, and the technical components.

SUPPLIES:

• Grease for lubricating parts
• Cleaning supplies and bucket
• Anti-corrosion spray (multi-purpose spray)

DURATION:
Average 1-3 hours

STEP 1:
Disconnect the gas bottles and store them somewhere off the boat, for example at home. It’s best to store the bottles in a dry, well-ventilated place. Check the gas hoses and connections and replace them in good time. Any sign of wear means the parts need replacing to prevent accidents. Have gas hoses replaced by an authorised specialist (at least every three years).

STEP 2:
When batteries discharge, the acid is drawn into the plates. In winter, this can freeze. It is advisable to keep batteries fully charged. For example, you could opt to charge batteries occasionally with a trickle charger. You can also remove the batteries from board and store them in a dry place. It is still advisable to fully charge the batteries completely from time to time. Also check if the batteries need topping up with distilled water.

STEP 3:
Remove electrical equipment from board, as far as possible. Store the equipment in a dry and warm place. spray the exposed points and contact points on board with a moisture-repellent spray to prevent corrosion.

STEP 4:
Rotating parts such as the steering column, winches and gears must be checked. In addition, ensure that parts such as gears, the rudder tube and the propeller shaft are lubricated. During lubrication, force the water out so that it cannot freeze in the tube.

STEP 5:
Remove water from the bilge and clean the bilge thoroughly. Also, clean and dry the gas locker thoroughly.

STEP 6:
Check the level and condition of the coolant using our Glycol meter. Remove the impeller during the winter period so that it does not deform in the same position. Store the impeller in a dark place (the rubber is not UV resistant). Tension or replace the V-belt. Replace the coolant approximately every three years or if it is dirty and the frost resistance is too low (-25 degrees is the limit).

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3. Water supply

Now that the technical parts are ready for winter, we’ll move on to the water supply. Think about the toilet and the tap. Be aware that you must use a non-toxic antifreeze! The antifreeze used for cars is often toxic and therefore cannot be used now. Non-toxic antifreeze is better for the environment, but also for the pump’s rubber seals. Regular coolant will damage these. Please note: it’s not enough to pump your toilet dry, as residual water can remain in bends and corners.

SUPPLIES:

• Non-toxic antifreeze
• Cleaning supplies
• Sponge
• Optional: lubricant for the valves e.g. petroleum jelly or multi-spray

DURATION:
Average 30 minutes to 2 hours

STEP 1:
Close the skin fitting and disconnect the hose from the toilet’s water inlet. Hang the hose in the jerrycan with antifreeze. Pump the antifreeze through the toilet and close.

STEP 2:
Empty the fresh water tank completely. The last bit of water in the tank can be removed via the inspection hatch with a sponge, or hire a wet vacuum cleaner connected to the drain point, then turn on the taps one by one. Clean the tank. No water should remain in the hoses and water pumps. Don’t forget the outside shower and tap.

STEP 3:
Drain the water heater. Do you have an electric water heater? If so, disconnect the power first. To ensure all water is out of the system, disconnect the top hose from the water heater (hot water) and blow compressed air through the system. By opening each tap one by one, you will blow out all remaining water. Be careful not to build up too much pressure in the system; always keep a tap open.

STEP 4:
Fill all remaining valves with antifreeze. To do this, pour antifreeze into the supply point or hose and open the valve once so that antifreeze remains in the ball.

STEP 5:
Is your boat ashore? If so, drain the water from the valves and then close them. Cold and moisture can enter through open valves. It is advisable to lubricate the valves to prevent corrosion.

We’re halfway there!
Time to get the outside of your vessel shipshape for winter.

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4. The hull and the deck

The inside of your ship is all ready for winter. Time to make the outside of your boat ready for winter.

SUPPLIES:

• Cleaning supplies
• Wax (optional)
• Paint (optional)
• Grease for rubber
• Antifouling (optional)
• Boat cover

DURATION:
Average 1-3 hours

STEP 1:
Thoroughly clean the hull and the deck. If dirt remains on your boat during winter, it can become even more embedded. Also clean components such as fenders.

STEP 2:
Is your boat made of polyester? If so, apply a coat of wax. Polish the wax off in the spring.

STEP 3:
Does your boat have any bare patches? Treat any areas on the boat where the paint has worn away to protect them.

STEP 4:
To prevent rubber from cracking, lubricate all window and hatch rubbers with petroleum jelly spray.

STEP 5:
Leave internal hatches and lockers open for ventilation to prevent mould.

STEP 6:
Examine the underside of your boat. Can it last another year or does it need attention? If the underside of the boat requires treatment, you can apply antifouling paint.

STEP 7:
Protect your boat with a cover if you have one. A cover helps prevent frost damage.

STEP 8:
Secure everything properly! It can get quite windy in winter, and ropes and covers can flap about, quickly causing wear and tear or damage.

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5. Sailboat

Are you preparing your sailboat for winter? Then there are some extra parts to consider.

SUPPLIES:

• Cleaning supplies
• Lubricant for roller systems

DURATION:
Average 30 minutes to 1.5 hours

STEP 1:
Remove the sails and running rigging (ropes and wire) and store them in a dry place.

STEP 2:
Grease the furling systems for the jib or mainsail.

STEP 3:
Inspect the standing rigging. Is everything still intact? Are there any burrs or kinks? Are all split pins present and in good condition?

STEP 4:
Clean all blocks and sheaves.

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6. Equipment

In the final step of the checklist, you clean the equipment and prevent further damage from cold and damp.

SUPPLIES:

• Cleaning supplies
• Lubricant for roller systems

DURATION:

Between 30 minutes and 3 hours

STEP 1:
Remove all cushions, clean the cushion covers (if possible in the washing machine) and store them in a dry place.

STEP 2:
Thoroughly clean the boat. Remove all food and perishable items from board. Bottles or cans of drinks can also

STEP 3:
Remove other items that are not resistant to moisture and/or cold.

STEP 4:
Remove clothing and life jackets from the vessel. Check that the life jackets are still in good condition and replace if necessary.

STEP 5:
Check the fire extinguishers and have them inspected if necessary.

STEP 6:
Place moisture absorbers in all areas of the boat to prevent dampness.

7. Recommended products for preparing your boat for winter

8. Download the manual

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You have completed all the steps to prepare your boat for winter. Please remember that the steps you follow will vary depending on your boat. Does your boat have any parts where water can remain, or where moisture and cold could cause damage? If so, ensure these parts are also prepared for winter.

Tip: It’s also worth popping down to your boat during the winter. For instance, check that the cover is still secure. It would be a shame to have gone to a lot of trouble preparing your boat for winter, only for it to suffer damage nonetheless.

We wish you the best of luck with preparing your boat for winter!