Author: abmarineservice

If you have a marine diesel, you’ll know: maintenance not only determines how smoothly the engine runs, but also how reliable it remains. Yet, we see with boat owners (for example, with a Volvo Penta) that one maintenance step is regularly skipped or remains a bit vague: flushing the engine.

Flushing can help loosen contaminants and deposits in the oil system, particularly in older engines, when there’s uncertainty about their maintenance history, or if the engine frequently idles. In this blog, we’ll explain what engine flushing is, when you should or shouldn’t do it, and what it generally costs.

What is engine flushing?

Engine flushing is the cleaning of the internal oil system. You add a special cleaning agent to the old engine oil, then run the engine briefly according to the product’s instructions, and then drain the oil. The aim is to loosen sludge and accumulated deposits from the crankcase and oil channels, so that this contamination is removed with the old oil. Afterwards, you replace the oil filter and fill with new oil.

On marine diesels, you sometimes see varnish deposits: a thin, sticky film that can range in colour from golden to brown. This can be caused not only by a engine not reaching its operating temperature but also by extended oil change intervals, a lot of idling/low-load running, prolonged periods of inactivity, and contamination (such as water or a bit of diesel in the oil). This deposit can impair lubrication and cause parts to move less smoothly. With heavy contamination (sludge), there’s even a risk that oil passages or a strainer could become partially blocked, which is why flushing is something you undertake deliberately and properly.

When is it advisable to flush an engine?

You don’t need to flush your engine with every service. However, in some cases, it has clear advantages. We’ll list those cases for you.

When the engine doesn’t run much

Boat engines that run infrequently often benefit from a flush. This is because they don’t often reach operating temperature, and the stagnant oil ages. This can lead to contamination, (partial) blockages, and the formation of acids and ‘black sludge’ in the crankcase. A flush can reduce this.

When the engine idles a lot

Also when the engine primarily runs at idle, the system doesn’t always reach an optimal temperature. This promotes oxidation of the engine oil and lacquer deposits. This, therefore, affects lubrication and the oil’s performance. In cases of heavy soiling, it can even (partially) block oilways.

When the engine has direct cooling

In the case of direct-cooled diesel engines, they often run cooler than closed systems. This gives dirt and the formation of ‘black sludge’ more of a chance. For direct-cooled engines, it can therefore be advisable to flush them slightly more often, especially if the engine runs at low load a lot or the maintenance history is unclear.

When the maintenance history is unknown

Perhaps you’ve bought a boat with an unclear maintenance history. In that case, the oil might not always have been changed on time. A flush reduces the risk of hidden contamination in the engine block and ensures a fresh start.

When the engine oil is old

If engine oil remains in the block for too long, it loses its lubricating and cleaning properties. Additives become depleted, dirt can accumulate, and acids may start to form. This leads to increased wear on components such as the bearings.

Should you have further doubts about the engine’s condition, it can also be helpful to follow a step-by-step guide for cleaning an diesel engine. Also in the case of a smoking diesel engine solutions are possible.

In what ways can you flush an engine?

There are several ways to flush an engine. Depending on the extent of the deposits, you can opt for using a cleaning agent, flushing with a standard flushing oil, or flushing with a more powerful flushing oil. We will cover these three options.

Add Oil System Flush to used oil

The most popular and cost-effective way to flush your engine is with a cleaning agent. We recommend Oil System Flush. This is a concentrated cleaner that you add to the old, warm engine oil before draining it.

This cleaner mixes with the oil and helps to loosen dirt, varnish deposits and ‘black sludge’ from engine parts, so they are drained away with the old oil. It helps to neutralise acid residues in the oil and is suitable for both petrol and diesel engines. Oil System Flush typically works within 5 to 15 minutes.

Oil System Flush is a good choice during a regular oil change. You can consider it a preventive measure for light to moderate contamination. Afterwards, you change the oil and filter so the system runs again with clean oil.

Step-by-step guide for using Oil System Flush

Always follow the instructions on the packaging and do not exceed the recommended running time.

1. Let the engine run until warm.
2. Switch off the engine.
3. Add Oil System Flush to the oil.
4. Let the engine idle.
5. Switch off the engine.
6. Drain the warm, old oil.
7. Replace the oil filter.
8. Fill the engine with fresh oil.

Flushing the engine with Flushing Oil when internally contaminated

If there is internal contamination, it is advisable to go a step further. Then we recommend Flushing Oil. The favourable choice of viscosity, high-quality base oils and special detergent and dispersant additives make Flushing Oil extremely effective.

Flushing Oil contains additives to prevent wear, corrosion, and foaming. It is also suitable for use when the old engine Oil contains a lot of condensation or white sludge. The recommended operating time is typically around 20 to 30 minutes for both diesel and petrol engines.

Flushing Oil is a good choice when there is significant internal contamination. It cleans more intensively than a cleaning agent added to the old oil. You can also use it before switching to a different or higher quality oil.

Step-by-step guide for using Flushing Oil

Beforehand, check that the engine has sufficient oil pressure and only run the engine at idle during flushing.

1. Let the engine run until warm.
2. Switch off the engine.
3. Drain the warm, old oil.
4. Pour Flushing Oil into the empty engine.
5. Let the engine idle.
6. Switch off the engine.
7. Drain the warm flushing oil.
8. Replace the oil filter.
9. Top up the engine with new engine oil.

Heavy contamination? Choose Flushing Oil Pro and Neutralizer Oil Pro

For a professional cleaning of heavily soiled engines, it is advisable to opt for a thorough approach with Flushing Oil Pro and Neutralizer Oil Pro. Thanks to Flushing Oil Pro, you can tackle deposits, ‘black sludge’, and more like never before.

For a thorough cleaning of heavily soiled engines, you can opt for Flushing Oil Pro in combination with Neutralizer Oil Pro. Flushing Oil Pro has been developed to loosen heavy deposits and ‘black sludge’ in engines with severe internal contamination.

Because Flushing Oil Pro is even stronger than regular Flushing Oil, it’s important to also rinse with Neutralizer Oil Pro after using Flushing Oil Pro. This product has been specially developed to completely remove any residue from the flushing agent and clean the engine.

This combination of products is recommended when there is heavy contamination and no oil change has taken place for a long time. Changing the oil in combination with the flushing process often prevents costly repairs.

Step-by-step guide for using Flushing Oil Pro and Neutralizer Oil Pro

1. Let the engine run until warm.
2. Switch off the engine.
3. Drain the warm oil.
4. Pour Flushing Oil Pro into the empty engine.
5. Let the engine idle.
6. Switch off the engine.
7. Drain the warm flushing oil.
8. Replace the oil filter.
9. Pour Neutralizer Oil Pro into the empty engine.
10. Let the engine idle.
11. Switch off the engine.
12. Tap again.
13. Replace the oil filter again.
14. Top up the engine with new engine oil.

What are the costs of flushing an engine?

Do you choose a cleaning agent like Oil System Flush? This works out at about €17 for a 310ml bottle. One bottle typically allows you to treat 4 to 6 litres of oil. You can add the costs of new oil and a new oil filter to this.

Taking it a step further with Flushing Oil? Then a 1-litre bottle costs around 14 euros. For a professional clean, opt for Flushing Oil Pro and Neutralizer Oil Pro. Flushing Oil Pro costs around 80 euros and Neutralizer Oil Pro around 68 euros.

Flushing almost always offers significant benefits and better performance when it comes to oil consumption. If you have it done by a professional mechanic, you will naturally also have to factor in labour costs.

Clearing out ‘black sludge’? Order everything from AB Marine Service

In the case of a dirty engine, flushing is necessary. It ensures a clean engine with better lubrication, prevents increased wear, and extends the engine’s lifespan. It is particularly necessary for engines that idle or do not reach operating temperature, to remove deposits.

Do you also want to keep your engine in optimal condition? With us, you can order everything you need to get this job done. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact us. We’re happy to help.

Getting your boat ready for winter is always important, whether you’re keeping it in the water or storing it ashore. With AB Marine Service’s winter Check, you can be sure your boat is fully prepared for winter and you’ll be back out on the water enjoying it again sooner when the boating season starts. You get your boat ready when you’re no longer going to use it this season. Exactly when this is will, of course, vary from person to person. Most boat owners get their boats winter-ready in October. Getting your boat ready for winter consists of 6 steps. In this article, you’ll find the 6 steps to get your boat winter-ready, the necessary products, and all the information in pdf format so you can easily save it.

1. The engine
2. Technical parts
3. Water supply
4. The hull and the deck
5. Sailing boat
6. Equipment
7. Required products
8. Download the manual

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1. The engine

At the end of the boating season, it’s crucial to winterise your boat’s engine. Don’t skip this step, as your engine could otherwise suffer significant damage. To begin, it’s important to know whether your boat has an open or closed cooling system. A closed cooling system is filled with coolant. Not much can go wrong with this system. Do you have an open cooling system? In this case, water from the waterway is used to cool the engine. Absolutely no water must remain in the engine over winter. Follow the next steps to get your engine winter-ready.

SUPPLIES:

• Antifreeze

DURATION:
Average 15 minutes

STEP 1:
Close the water inlet valve. Do you not have a draining valve? If not, make sure to blow the water out of the valve before closing it. A valve with water in the ball will otherwise still break.

STEP 2:
Unscrew the weed filter.

STEP 3:
Ensure there is absolutely no water left in the engine. Look in the manual for the drain points. These points are often found on the side of the engine and underneath the manifolds.

STEP 4:
Is all the water out of the system? If so, you can proceed to the next step. You can optionally blow out the system with compressed air first before continuing.

STEP 5:
Run the engine while you slowly pour antifreeze into the weed filter, or place the supply hose into the jerrycan with antifreeze and then start the engine. Switch off the engine when antifreeze starts flowing from the exhaust of the cooling water system and catch the liquid in a bucket. Do not let it enter the waterway, as antifreeze is very harmful to the environment. Alternatively, use our biodegradable antifreeze.

STEP 6:
For boats that remain in the water over winter, the valve must also be filled with antifreeze. You can do this by filling the weed filter with antifreeze and opening and closing the inlet valve once, so that antifreeze seeps into the ball valve. Or even better, blow air into it and seal the valve under pressure so that only air is present.
And note, for boats that are ashore, keep the valve open to drain all water from the ball valve!

STEP 7:
Change the engine oil and replace the oil filter and the fuel filter. Diesel and fuel attract water. After the sailing season, it is advisable to replace these with new oil and filters to drain moisture in advance. New oil also protects the engine better due to the various additives.

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2. Technical parts

After winterising the engine, it’s time for the technical aspects. During this step, we’ll cover the gas and electrical supplies, and the technical components.

SUPPLIES:

• Grease for lubricating parts
• Cleaning supplies and bucket
• Anti-corrosion spray (multi-purpose spray)

DURATION:
Average 1-3 hours

STEP 1:
Disconnect the gas bottles and store them somewhere off the boat, for example at home. It’s best to store the bottles in a dry, well-ventilated place. Check the gas hoses and connections and replace them in good time. Any sign of wear means the parts need replacing to prevent accidents. Have gas hoses replaced by an authorised specialist (at least every three years).

STEP 2:
When batteries discharge, the acid is drawn into the plates. In winter, this can freeze. It is advisable to keep batteries fully charged. For example, you could opt to charge batteries occasionally with a trickle charger. You can also remove the batteries from board and store them in a dry place. It is still advisable to fully charge the batteries completely from time to time. Also check if the batteries need topping up with distilled water.

STEP 3:
Remove electrical equipment from board, as far as possible. Store the equipment in a dry and warm place. spray the exposed points and contact points on board with a moisture-repellent spray to prevent corrosion.

STEP 4:
Rotating parts such as the steering column, winches and gears must be checked. In addition, ensure that parts such as gears, the rudder tube and the propeller shaft are lubricated. During lubrication, force the water out so that it cannot freeze in the tube.

STEP 5:
Remove water from the bilge and clean the bilge thoroughly. Also, clean and dry the gas locker thoroughly.

STEP 6:
Check the level and condition of the coolant using our Glycol meter. Remove the impeller during the winter period so that it does not deform in the same position. Store the impeller in a dark place (the rubber is not UV resistant). Tension or replace the V-belt. Replace the coolant approximately every three years or if it is dirty and the frost resistance is too low (-25 degrees is the limit).

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3. Water supply

Now that the technical parts are ready for winter, we’ll move on to the water supply. Think about the toilet and the tap. Be aware that you must use a non-toxic antifreeze! The antifreeze used for cars is often toxic and therefore cannot be used now. Non-toxic antifreeze is better for the environment, but also for the pump’s rubber seals. Regular coolant will damage these. Please note: it’s not enough to pump your toilet dry, as residual water can remain in bends and corners.

SUPPLIES:

• Non-toxic antifreeze
• Cleaning supplies
• Sponge
• Optional: lubricant for the valves e.g. petroleum jelly or multi-spray

DURATION:
Average 30 minutes to 2 hours

STEP 1:
Close the skin fitting and disconnect the hose from the toilet’s water inlet. Hang the hose in the jerrycan with antifreeze. Pump the antifreeze through the toilet and close.

STEP 2:
Empty the fresh water tank completely. The last bit of water in the tank can be removed via the inspection hatch with a sponge, or hire a wet vacuum cleaner connected to the drain point, then turn on the taps one by one. Clean the tank. No water should remain in the hoses and water pumps. Don’t forget the outside shower and tap.

STEP 3:
Drain the water heater. Do you have an electric water heater? If so, disconnect the power first. To ensure all water is out of the system, disconnect the top hose from the water heater (hot water) and blow compressed air through the system. By opening each tap one by one, you will blow out all remaining water. Be careful not to build up too much pressure in the system; always keep a tap open.

STEP 4:
Fill all remaining valves with antifreeze. To do this, pour antifreeze into the supply point or hose and open the valve once so that antifreeze remains in the ball.

STEP 5:
Is your boat ashore? If so, drain the water from the valves and then close them. Cold and moisture can enter through open valves. It is advisable to lubricate the valves to prevent corrosion.

We’re halfway there!
Time to get the outside of your vessel shipshape for winter.

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4. The hull and the deck

The inside of your ship is all ready for winter. Time to make the outside of your boat ready for winter.

SUPPLIES:

• Cleaning supplies
• Wax (optional)
• Paint (optional)
• Grease for rubber
• Antifouling (optional)
• Boat cover

DURATION:
Average 1-3 hours

STEP 1:
Thoroughly clean the hull and the deck. If dirt remains on your boat during winter, it can become even more embedded. Also clean components such as fenders.

STEP 2:
Is your boat made of polyester? If so, apply a coat of wax. Polish the wax off in the spring.

STEP 3:
Does your boat have any bare patches? Treat any areas on the boat where the paint has worn away to protect them.

STEP 4:
To prevent rubber from cracking, lubricate all window and hatch rubbers with petroleum jelly spray.

STEP 5:
Leave internal hatches and lockers open for ventilation to prevent mould.

STEP 6:
Examine the underside of your boat. Can it last another year or does it need attention? If the underside of the boat requires treatment, you can apply antifouling paint.

STEP 7:
Protect your boat with a cover if you have one. A cover helps prevent frost damage.

STEP 8:
Secure everything properly! It can get quite windy in winter, and ropes and covers can flap about, quickly causing wear and tear or damage.

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5. Sailboat

Are you preparing your sailboat for winter? Then there are some extra parts to consider.

SUPPLIES:

• Cleaning supplies
• Lubricant for roller systems

DURATION:
Average 30 minutes to 1.5 hours

STEP 1:
Remove the sails and running rigging (ropes and wire) and store them in a dry place.

STEP 2:
Grease the furling systems for the jib or mainsail.

STEP 3:
Inspect the standing rigging. Is everything still intact? Are there any burrs or kinks? Are all split pins present and in good condition?

STEP 4:
Clean all blocks and sheaves.

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6. Equipment

In the final step of the checklist, you clean the equipment and prevent further damage from cold and damp.

SUPPLIES:

• Cleaning supplies
• Lubricant for roller systems

DURATION:

Between 30 minutes and 3 hours

STEP 1:
Remove all cushions, clean the cushion covers (if possible in the washing machine) and store them in a dry place.

STEP 2:
Thoroughly clean the boat. Remove all food and perishable items from board. Bottles or cans of drinks can also

STEP 3:
Remove other items that are not resistant to moisture and/or cold.

STEP 4:
Remove clothing and life jackets from the vessel. Check that the life jackets are still in good condition and replace if necessary.

STEP 5:
Check the fire extinguishers and have them inspected if necessary.

STEP 6:
Place moisture absorbers in all areas of the boat to prevent dampness.

7. Recommended products for preparing your boat for winter

8. Download the manual

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You have completed all the steps to prepare your boat for winter. Please remember that the steps you follow will vary depending on your boat. Does your boat have any parts where water can remain, or where moisture and cold could cause damage? If so, ensure these parts are also prepared for winter.

Tip: It’s also worth popping down to your boat during the winter. For instance, check that the cover is still secure. It would be a shame to have gone to a lot of trouble preparing your boat for winter, only for it to suffer damage nonetheless.

We wish you the best of luck with preparing your boat for winter!

Whether you’re an experienced boater or just starting out with tinkering on your own boat, it’s good to know what an anode is. We’ll explain the meaning of an anode, what an anode does, what types of anodes there are, and how they protect your boat from galvanic corrosion.

What is an anode?

An anode is an electrode that functions as a positive electrode, thereby forming the positive pole within an electrochemical cell. It is the electrode along which electrons move when an electric current is generated.

During this process, electrons are central. The anode releases electrons via an external circuit, creating a controlled current flow between the different components. The anode is a charged plate, often positively charged, which releases an equivalent number of electrons and leaves an equivalent number of electrons behind in the material.

An anode is an essential part of your boat’s protection system against galvanic corrosion. This corrosion occurs when different metals come into contact with an electrolyte, such as distilled water, fresh, salt, or brackish water.

How does a boat anode work?

On a boat, the anode is deliberately the least noble metal. This electrode is used to protect other metal components. The anode forms the positive pole, while the cathode, also called the cathode, is the negative pole.

The cathode is the electrode that actually accepts electrons, while the anode gives them up. This interaction causes current to flow from the anode to the cathode, thereby preventing corrosion damage. This principle is very similar to what happens during electrolysis, but applied as a protective mechanism.

Through this action, current flows from the anode towards the cathode, creating a controlled current. This electric current ensures that it is the anode itself that corrodes, not the important metal parts. This protects components such as the propeller, the propeller shaft, and other metal components.

Types of anodes: magnesium, zinc or aluminium

There are various types of anodes available, each designed for specific water conditions and materials. The most commonly used are zinc, aluminium, and magnesium. These materials gradually dissolve in the surrounding solution or mixture in which the metal is located.

Magnesium anodes: perfect for fresh water

A magnesium anode is most suitable for use in fresh water. Magnesium is the least noble metal of the three and therefore corrodes the quickest. This makes magnesium anodes ideal for use in fresh water, where corrosion is less aggressive. However, it is important to note that magnesium anodes are not suitable for use in salt water, as they would corrode too quickly there.

Zinc anodes: ideal for saltwaterr

A zinc anode is best suited for use in saltwater. Zinc is the least noble metal and is highly resistant to the corrosive effects of saltwater. For boats that primarily navigate the sea or other saltwater environments, zinc anodes are the best choice. They offer effective protection for metal components such as the propeller shaft and the stern gear of vessels.

Aluminium anodes: versatile and lightweightt

Aluminium anodes are very versatile and can be used in both saltwater, freshwater, and brackish water. An aluminium anode is lighter than zinc and offers excellent protection against corrosion. Furthermore, aluminium anodes are more environmentally friendly as they contain fewer harmful substances. These are often fitted to boats that navigate in various waters, as they are effective in both freshwater sailing and saltwater.

Can stainless steel and aluminium be used together on a boat?

A common question is whether stainless steel and aluminium can be used together on a boat. Combining different metals, such as stainless steel and aluminium, can lead to galvanic corrosion, especially in saltwater.

It’s important to choose the right anode to prevent this. For example, an aluminium anode can help minimise corrosion by sacrificing itself instead of the aluminium or stainless steel on your boat. The anode absorbs the electrical current and prevents damage to other metal components.

How often do you need to replace an anode?

Over time, an anode will visibly corrode. Regularly checking and replacing anodes is essential for maintaining your boat. A general rule of thumb is to inspect your anodes at least once a year. If you see an anode has lost more than 50% of its mass, you should replace it.

This applies to all types, whether you’re using zinc, aluminium, or magnesium. Failing to replace the correct anode in good time can lead to serious damage to the metal parts of your vessel.

How many anodes do you need for your boat?

The number of anodes you’ll need depends on the size of your boat, the type of water you sail in, the amount of metal components that come into contact with the water, and how a component is fed. For smaller boats, one shaft anode might suffice, whereas larger vessels often require several anodes.

The answer to the question ‘how many anodes do I need?’ depends on factors such as the waterline, the presence of an outboard engine, and the materials used. Also consider what type of anode you need, depending on the water conditions and the materials of your boat.

Purchase the correct anodes from AB Marine Service

The use of the correct anodes is essential to protect your boat from galvanic corrosion. Whether you’re sailing in fresh, brackish, or saltwater, choosing the right anodes and replacing them in good time will ensure your boat remains well-protected. Make sure you are properly equipped with the correct anodes and thus prevent unnecessary damage to your vessel.

Brass is a versatile and popular material in the maritime sector and other industries. It is an alloy of copper and zinc. This unique combination offers numerous advantages such as good electrical conductivity, resistance to corrosion, and an attractive sheen. Over the years, brass has become a favourite for various applications, from decorative items and musical instruments to marine parts, plumbing fittings, and electronic components. However, brass also presents its challenges, especially in damp and salty environments.

Brass corrosion can have serious consequences for the safety and functionality of crucial components, such as skin fittings and seacocks. This blog tells you all about the properties of brass, the causes of corrosion, and how CR brass offers the definitive solution for durable and safe application in damp environments.

How does corrosion occur in brass?

Most metals are subject to corrosion, but in the case of brass, the process of dezincification plays a particularly significant role. Additionally, galvanic corrosion can occur, especially when brass is combined with other metals in a damp environment.

Dezincification: the hidden threat

Dezincification occurs when the zinc content in brass is affected by a chemical reaction with water and oxygen. This process leaves behind a weak, porous material primarily composed of copper. Brass fittings, such as pipes, valves, and skin fittings that are constantly in contact with seawater, are susceptible to this form of corrosion.

• Key factor: The percentage of zinc in the alloy determines how quickly dezincification occurs. The higher the zinc content, the greater the risk.
• Damp environments: In saltwater, dezincification is accelerated, leading to structural weakness in parts that play a crucial role in the safety of your boat. This corrosive effect can be particularly severe below the waterline.

Galvanic corrosion: interaction between metals

Galvanic corrosion occurs when brass comes into contact with dissimilar metals, such as iron, nickel, or aluminium. In combination with seawater, which acts as an electrolyte, an electric current is generated that attacks the less noble metal in the combination.

How to recognise corrosion on your boat parts?

Spotting corrosion early is crucial to prevent damage and dangerous situations. Regular inspection and maintenance can significantly extend the lifespan of your boat parts.

Visual signs

• Discolouration: Brass can develop a green or white deposit due to oxidation. These are early signs of corrosion.
• Pitting: Small indentations on the surface indicate advanced galvanic corrosion and should be taken seriously.
• Loss of shine: Brass that loses its shine has often been exposed to damaging elements, such as salt and moisture.

Functional issues

• Reduced strength: Dezincification makes brass brittle, meaning it can no longer withstand loads.
• Leaks: Check through-hulls and shut-off valves for leaks, as these are often the first signs of corrosion.

By combining visual inspection and functional tests, you can identify problems early and limit damage. If you are using brass, these tests are very important.

CR-brass versus standard brass: what are the differences?

In marine applications, not all brass is created equal. The distinction between standard brass and CR brass (dezincification resistant brass) is of great importance, especially in sub-aquatic applications.

Standard brass

• Composition: Contains a high zinc content, making it more susceptible to dezincification.
• Applications: Standard brass is suitable for applications in less aggressive environments, such as freshwater areas or above the waterline. It is ideal for decorative applications, light loads, or parts that do not have constant exposure to moisture. Additionally, it is a cost-effective choice for situations where maximum durability is not required, such as temporary solutions or less critical components.
• Low hardness: Due to its relatively soft structure, standard brass is less suitable for load bearing.

CR-brass

• Dezincification-free: Due to the use of other alloying elements, such as manganese and a lower zinc component, CR brass is more resistant to corrosion.
• Higher strength: Ideal for applications where durability and safety are crucial, such as through-hulls and brass plates below the waterline.

Choosing the right type of brass is an important factor in ensuring the safety and performance of your boat.

CR-brass: the solution for below-waterline corrosion

For underwater applications, CR-brass is the best choice. This type of brass is designed to perform in the most challenging conditions, where standard brass would quickly fail.

Advantages of CR brass

1. Corrosion resistance: Due to its unique composition, CR brass remains strong and durable, even in saltwater.
2. Long service life: Thanks to its improved dezincification resistance, CR brass components have a significantly longer service life.
3. Reliability: Ideal for critical components such as through-hulls, brass profiles, and valves.

By choosing CR brass, you’re investing in quality and safety. You’ll benefit from this product’s most notable properties: it’s dezincification-free, corrosion-resistant, and therefore reliable.

When to choose standard brass or CR brass?

Choosing between standard brass and CR brass depends on the specific application and the environmental factors the material will be exposed to.

Standard brass

• Dry or freshwater environments: Standard brass is suitable for above-waterline applications or in freshwater areas, where corrosion and dezincification are less likely to occur.
• Cost considerations: For less critical applications, standard brass is a cost-effective option.
• Light load: In situations where mechanical strength and durability are not crucial.

CR-brass

• Damp environments: For applications below the waterline or in other damp conditions, CR-brass offers better protection.
• Mechanical load: Use CR brass in parts where strength and durability are important, such as through-hulls and valves.
• Safety and reliability: For critical components where failure could have serious consequences, such as marine parts.

The importance of proper brass maintenance

Proper maintenance is important to extend the lifespan of brass parts. Here are some practical tips:

1. Regular inspection: Check components such as hull fittings and valves for signs of corrosion.
2. Polishing: Regular polishing, for example with a soft cloth, removes oxidation layers and preserves the aesthetic appeal of the material.
3. Protective coatings: Use coatings to limit exposure to moisture and salt.
4. Preventive replacement: Replace standard brass parts promptly with CR-brass if they are exposed to damp or salty environments.

With proper maintenance, brass remains a reliable and attractive material in a wide range of applications. This ensures you continue to benefit from its unique properties in various uses.

Buying brass from AB Marine Service

At AB Marine Service, we offer a comprehensive range of brass products, from brass rods and tubes to skin fittings and seacocks, available in both standard brass and CR-brass fittings. Our products are designed to withstand harsh conditions and provide a long service life.

With this extensive knowledge of brass and corrosion, you are now better equipped to make the right choices and protect your boat against the challenges of saltwater. Trust in quality, choose the right materials, and maintain your boat with the expertise of AB Marine Service. contact us to learn more about how we can assist you with your marine maintenance projects.

If you regularly sail, you’ll know how important it is to keep your marine engine running smoothly. The V-belt plays a crucial role in this. This seemingly small component is responsible for driving vital systems such as the alternator, water pump, and sometimes even the power steering pump.

A well-functioning V-belt prevents your engine from overheating or systems from failing. But what if your V-belt squeaks or shows visible defects? In this guide, we’ll explain step-by-step how to replace a V-belt, what to look out for, and why AB Marine Service is the place to get your V-belt.

How to recognise wear on a boat engine’s V-belt?

Wear and tear on a V-belt can take various forms. You’ll often notice it as a squeaking sound when starting the engine or when you accelerate. Other signs include:

• Cracks on the outside of the belt.
• Slack or an overly loose belt.
• Reduced dynamo performance, such as a poorly functioning battery.
• Engine overheating more quickly.

In marine environments, where moisture and salt are factors, a V-belt often wears out faster than in a car. It is therefore important to regularly check if the V-belt is functioning correctly and to schedule a replacement in good time.

Differences between a V-belt and a multi-belt on ships

You may have heard of a multi-belt, also called a drive belt. While they look alike, there are important differences:

• A V-belt has a characteristic V-shape, causing it to sit deeply within the pulley grooves. This provides a firm grip and makes the V-belt ideal for driving individual systems, such as the alternator or water pump. V-belts are commonly used in marine engines due to their simplicity and reliability in damp and salty conditions.
• A multi-belt, also known as a poly-V-belt, is wider and designed to drive several components simultaneously, such as the power steering pump, air conditioning compressor, and alternator. A multi-belt is mainly found in more modern engines with a compact design, where multiple components need to be driven at the same time.

How to replace a V-belt?

Replacing a V-belt is not a complicated job, but it does require the right tools, such as a set of spanners or socket wrenches, and a bit of technical know-how. Follow these steps:

Preparation and checks

1. Turn the engine off and allow it to cool down completely.
2. Open the bonnet or inspection hatch and locate the V-belt.
3. Check the condition of the V-belt and note how it is attached across the pulleys. Taking a photograph may be useful.

Removing the old V-belt

4. Loosen the tensioner pulley or adjustable bolt to release the belt tension.
5. Carefully remove the old V-belt. At the same time, check the pulleys for damage.

Refitting the new V-beltr

6. Check that the pulleys are properly aligned. If a pulley is crooked, adjust it before fitting the new V-belt.
7. Fit the new V-belt over the pulleys in the same pattern as the old one. Make sure the belt is properly seated and not twisted.
8. Adjust the tension of the V-belt. It should be firm, but still have a little give (about half a centimetre of play).

Check and testt

8. Briefly turn the engine over to check that the V-belt is working correctly and is not making any unusual noises.
9. Check the belt tension again after a short test period, as the belt may stretch.

How to correctly adjust the V-belt after replacement?

A correctly adjusted V-belt is important. The right tension prevents serious damage to components. Over-tightening can cause engine damage, while a belt that is too loose will squeal or slip. Here are some tips:

• Use a tension gauge if you have one, but pressing down on the belt by hand is also a good method.
• Ensure the pulleys are aligned. Crooked pulleys can damage the belt.
• Regularly check the tension, especially if your engine runs a lot.

How often should you replace a V-belt?

Replacing a V-belt depends on how often your boat is used and under what conditions. With intensive use or exposure to saltwater, it may be necessary to replace the V-belt more often than with a car that mainly drives in a dry environment.

As a rule of thumb, you can expect to replace it after every 500 operating hours or when you see signs of wear and tear.

Where can I buy reliable V-belts for marine engines?

For a high-quality V-belt, AB Marine Service is the place to be. We offer:

• Durable V-belts specifically designed for marine use.
• A wide range, so you’ll always find the right size and profile for your engine.
• Expert advice on replacing and maintaining V-belts.

With our products, you ensure that your marine engine continues to run reliably and smoothly, so you can set sail worry-free. Order your new V-belt from our website today.

Why regular V-belt maintenance is important

A good maintenance schedule prevents unexpected problems. During a routine service, you can check the V-belt and other parts of your marine engine. This includes the timing belt, tensioner pulley, and pulleys. Regular maintenance extends the lifespan of your engine, saves on high costs, and prevents you from breaking down on the water.

Frequently asked questions about V-belts and multi-belts

How do I know if my V-belt needs replacing?

If you hear a squealing noise when starting up or accelerating, or if you see visible cracks, it’s time to replace the V-belt.

Can I replace a V-belt myself?

Yes, with a bit of technical knowledge, a steady hand, and the right tools, you can do this yourself. Just make sure you adjust the tension correctly.

How much does a new V-belt cost?

The price depends on the type of engine and the size of the V-belt. At AB Marine Service, we offer quality options at a competitive price.

Order your new V-belt from AB Marine Service

With this guide, you’ll know exactly how to replace a V-belt and what to look out for. If you have any questions or want to order a V-belt straight away, get in touch with AB Marine Service. We’re ready to help you!

The damper plate is an important part of your boat’s drivetrain. It is located between the flywheel and the reverse gear and dampens unwanted vibrations and shocks for a smoother drive.

When the damper plate becomes worn out, problems can arise such as vibrations, noises, and uneven propulsion. This blog explains why and when you need to replace a damper plate, how to do it, and how to choose the right damper plate for your boat.

Why and when should you replace a damper plate?

When your boat’s damper plate wears out over time, it can cause malfunctions and discomfort. Below, we discuss some common problems that indicate the damper plate needs replacing.

Vibrations and noises in the reversing gear

When you notice your gearbox vibrating slightly or making unusual noises, this can indicate wear on the damper plate. The plastic cams or springs in the damper plate may lose their damping effect, causing vibrations to be transmitted directly to the drivetrain. This can result in extra wear on other parts of your gearbox, such as bearings, the output shaft, and gears.

Problems at low revs

A worn damper plate can cause problems at low revs. This can manifest as an uneven drive or juddering when engaging the gearbox. This is particularly noticeable when manoeuvring the boat in harbour or when mooring, when the engine is running at low revs.

Rattling and banging from the gearbox

If your gearbox clunks when shifting or you hear a rattling noise, it could be a sign that the damper plate is no longer functioning optimally and needs replacing. The splines on the special plate could be worn, preventing the gearbox from engaging smoothly.

Step-by-step guide: Replacing the damper plate

Replacing a damper plate is a job that, with the right preparation, is quite manageable. Below you’ll find out how to tackle it. We’ll start with a list of the tools needed to replace this special plate:

• Socket set
• Torque wrench
• Screwdrivers
• Jack or hoist (to move the engine slightly)
• New damper plate
• Safety glasses and gloves
• Brake cleaner (to clean parts)

Step 1 – Preparation: Ensure the engine is switched off and you have safe access to the gearbox. Remove the cover or hatch to gain good access to the gearbox and flywheel. Check the surroundings for loose parts and ensure you are working on a stable surface.

Step 2 – Detaching the reversing gearbox: Unscrew the bolts that attach the reversing gearbox. Sometimes it’s necessary to lift the engine slightly with a hoist or jack to gain better access to the reversing gearbox. Ensure the reversing gearbox is properly supported so it doesn’t fall unexpectedly.

Step 3 – Removing the old damper plate: The damper plate is located between the flywheel and the reversing gearbox. Unscrew the old plate and note how it is fitted so that you can install the new damper plate in the same way. Check the old damper plate for signs of wear, such as cracks, worn springs, or broken plastic cams.

Step 4 – Fitting the new damper plate: Fit the new damper plate, ensuring the screws are securely tightened. Check that the splines and the triangle on the plate are correctly aligned with the reversing gearbox. It is important to select the correct damper plate with the appropriate diameter and specifications for your engine and reversing gearbox.

Step 5 – Refitting the reversing gearbox: Re-mount the reversing gearbox onto the engine and tighten the bolts to the recommended torque settings. Check that everything is secure and that there is no play. An incorrectly fitted reversing gearbox can cause damage to both the engine and the drive.

Step 6 – Test the engine: Start the engine and listen for vibrations, noises, or any other signs that might indicate incorrect assembly. Run the engine at various speeds, including idling, and engage and disengage the reversing gearbox a few times. If everything operates smoothly, the job is successfully completed!

Choosing the right mounting plate for your boat

Choosing the right mounting plate for your boat If you’ve got a new gearbox or aren’t sure which mounting plate is right for your boat, then choosing the correct one is important. The wrong plate can cause vibrations and lead to premature wear on your gearbox.

Boat Type

Different boats require different damper plates. For instance, an Indenor diesel engine often requires a different plate than a Volvo Penta engine. The load on the engine and gearbox also plays a part in selecting the correct plate.

Gearbox type

The gearbox also influences which damper plate you need. Popular types such as PRM Delta and ZF gearboxes have specific damper plates. Check the description of your gearbox to make the correct choice. The splining and damping of the damper plate must exactly match those of your gearbox.

Dimensions and specifications

Pay attention to the diameter, splining, and springs of the damper plate. These must match the specifications of your engine and gearbox for optimal damping and performance. The wrong damper plate can lead to extra wear and unnecessary costs.

Take your engine’s torque into account!

The torque of your engine, expressed in Newton metres (Nm), indicates how much force the engine produces at a given speed. This is important when choosing the correct damper plate, as it must be able to withstand your engine’s torque. Don’t know the torque? Easily calculate it with our torque calculator.

AB Marine Service damper plates

At AB Marine Service, you’ll find a wide range of damper plates for various gearboxes and engines. Our products are carefully selected and feature clear descriptions and customer ratings. We offer damper plates made from high-quality materials, specifically designed for optimal performance and a long Service life.

With this guide, you can replace your damper plate yourself and ensure your boat functions optimally again. Do you have questions or would you like advice on the correct damper plate? Feel free to contact AB Marine Service. We are happy to help.

Before and after replacing the damper platet

Curious about the difference? In the videos below, you’ll see how the sound quality changes after replacing the damper plate.